Home Automation - Smartkit

[SmartKit]

Well it can’t be dodgy wiring as the exact same wiring works fine when there is no Sonoff.

It’s seemingly a 3kw element going by the Sonoff reading but way below the amperage threshold.

Besides then I would expect the Sonoff to do it’s own internal shut off.

Maybe I should swop the TH16 for the spare one I have, maybe it’s just a dodgy unit.

Let us know if it's just a dodgy device.

 

[SmartKit]

I’m sure it’s nice for people who don’t have anything in place already.

Surely the Shelly 1 PM would work? It certainly would fit in the box more easily.

The one benefit of the EM is it's a clamp with a breaker, so wiring is much safer. Though if you're using a qualified electrician hopefully this isn't an issue ;-)

 

[SmartKit]

do you sell/do this sort of thing for a living?

The smart home devices?

 

[Steamy Tom]

The smart home devices?

shelly and sonoff yes?

you make it sound like you get enquirers, thus I am asking since i need.

 

[SmartKit]

shelly and sonoff yes?

you make it sound like you get enquirers, thus I am asking since i need.

Yes, see here https://mybroadband.co.za/forum/index.php?posts/20321601

And if anyone knows how to curse in Bulgarian I may be able to speed up the Shelly shipments.

 

[alqassam]

Anyone got a lit box working with a rm pro?

 

[SmartKit]

Anyone got a lit box working with a rm pro?

Box as a Google Assistant? I have a Pro with an Ematic I can try.

 

[Steamy Tom]

Yes, see here https://mybroadband.co.za/forum/index.php?posts/20321601

And if anyone knows how to curse in Bulgarian I may be able to speed up the Shelly shipments.

ah ok you are dolbys partner in the business, i will check the site out.

 

[alqassam]

Box as a Google Assistant? I have a Pro with an Ematic I can try.

Telkom lit box - android TV to be controlled with a broadlink RM pro.

Just managed to get the scene set up now want to add further instructions to it.

 

[SmartKit]

ah ok you are dolbys partner in the business, i will check the site out.

Shelly is coming. We're having an issue with CE certificates - the test results are all in Bulgarian.

 

[SmartKit]

Telkom lit box - android TV to be controlled with a broadlink RM pro.

Just managed to get the scene set up now want to add further instructions to it.

OK, will give it a try on my Ematic.

 

[alqassam]

OK, will give it a try on my Ematic.

Cool I got power working using the learning function. My remote is bust so other buttons do not work. Will borrow one to teach it the rest.

 

[SmartKit]

Cool I got power working using the learning function. My remote is bust so other buttons do not work. Will borrow one to teach it the rest.

Which app do you use?

 

[alqassam]

Which app do you use?

The IHC app


Alexa is not playing nice with the scene that i created


The Command I was using was incorrect

Now it's Alexa, turn on watch TV

 

[SauRoNZA]

So while I’m at home at had a spare moment I figured let’s just take a peek at this ceiling fan to see what I need to sort out to make the iFan happen.

First surprise is that there is no actual pole or other strut on the thing so when I looses the four screws that was it and there I stood holding the thing in my hand unexpectedly.

So I find this...

So immediately I am confused about why are there two neutrals (because black) coming down from the roof and being spliced together at this chocolate block.

Do I assume that it’s maybe bridged here to go to the lights? Easy enough to answer if I just disconnect one I guess but not really a possibility while un prepared and standing on a ladder with a fan in hand.

So I decide to just take a look at the switch because maybe it explains a bit more.

Nope, even more confusion.

First though it WOAH THERE IS A NEUTRAL!!! Install all the Smart Things.

Then I’m like again, why are there two of them if they are neutrals? This makes no sense. One appears to be "incoming" and the other outgoing but I'm kind of like why are they there at all then?

The top switch is just for the downlights and it's bridged with a short red wire to the bottom switch, which I also don't quite understand. Is it just splitting the incoming live into two?

****

Now outside of the wire confusion, presumably the iFan could simply replace that chocolate block to manage the rest of the wiring? Took the photo at a stupid angle so have to go by memory but I'm almost sure there are two wires coming out of the "red into black" side which should then be one for the light and one for the fan?

The wall switch obviously just turns the whole lot on, it has no intelligence over light vs fan because the pull chains do that.

 

[JeffMan]

So while I’m at home at had a spare moment I figured let’s just take a peek at this ceiling fan to see what I need to sort out to make the iFan happen.

First surprise is that there is no actual pole or other strut on the thing so when I looses the four screws that was it and there I stood holding the thing in my hand unexpectedly.

So I find this...

So immediately I am confused about why are there two neutrals (because black) coming down from the roof and being spliced together at this chocolate block.

Do I assume that it’s maybe bridged here to go to the lights? Easy enough to answer if I just disconnect one I guess but not really a possibility while un prepared and standing on a ladder with a fan in hand.

So I decide to just take a look at the switch because maybe it explains a bit more.

Nope, even more confusion.

First though it WOAH THERE IS A NEUTRAL!!! Install all the Smart Things.

Then I’m like again, why are there two of them if they are neutrals? This makes no sense. One appears to be "incoming" and the other outgoing but I'm kind of like why are they there at all then?

The top switch is just for the downlights and it's bridged with a short red wire to the bottom switch, which I also don't quite understand. Is it just splitting the incoming live into two?

****

Now outside of the wire confusion, presumably the iFan could simply replace that chocolate block to manage the rest of the wiring? Took the photo at a stupid angle so have to go by memory but I'm almost sure there are two wires coming out of the "red into black" side which should then be one for the light and one for the fan?

The wall switch obviously just turns the whole lot on, it has no intelligence over light vs fan because the pull chains do that.

I don't think you need the iFan for what you want to do with regard to wiring.
2 Sonoff Basics, or that double Sonoff will do the job of switching.
If you want to control fan speed, you'll need to actually replace the driver inside the fan unit.

 

[Steamy Tom]

So while I’m at home at had a spare moment I figured let’s just take a peek at this ceiling fan to see what I need to sort out to make the iFan happen.

First surprise is that there is no actual pole or other strut on the thing so when I looses the four screws that was it and there I stood holding the thing in my hand unexpectedly.

So I find this...

So immediately I am confused about why are there two neutrals (because black) coming down from the roof and being spliced together at this chocolate block.

Do I assume that it’s maybe bridged here to go to the lights? Easy enough to answer if I just disconnect one I guess but not really a possibility while un prepared and standing on a ladder with a fan in hand.

So I decide to just take a look at the switch because maybe it explains a bit more.

Nope, even more confusion.

First though it WOAH THERE IS A NEUTRAL!!! Install all the Smart Things.

Then I’m like again, why are there two of them if they are neutrals? This makes no sense. One appears to be "incoming" and the other outgoing but I'm kind of like why are they there at all then?

The top switch is just for the downlights and it's bridged with a short red wire to the bottom switch, which I also don't quite understand. Is it just splitting the incoming live into two?

****

Now outside of the wire confusion, presumably the iFan could simply replace that chocolate block to manage the rest of the wiring? Took the photo at a stupid angle so have to go by memory but I'm almost sure there are two wires coming out of the "red into black" side which should then be one for the light and one for the fan?

The wall switch obviously just turns the whole lot on, it has no intelligence over light vs fan because the pull chains do that.

that hook btw is so you don't have to hold it.

the neutrals are probably just chained, and the lack of neutrals in the wall socket is normal, the live is switched generally.

also... dont assume that neutral in the switch is a neutral... my guess is it is a live incoming and a hot outgoing.

 

[SauRoNZA]

that hook btw is so you don't have to hold it.

the neutrals are probably just chained, and the lack of neutrals in the wall socket is normal, the live is switched generally.

also... dont assume that neutral in the switch is a neutral... my guess is it is a live incoming and a hot outgoing.

I know the lack of neutrals in the wall is normal, hence the surprise that they would be there if they are neutral.

Accidentally pulled them out of the switch when putting it back and they are joined together....and yet the light and fan stilll turned on.

Grabbed the voltmeter and got nothing out of them....but at the same time got nothing out of anything else (didn't pull others out so could just be a bad contact.

 

[SauRoNZA]

I don't think you need the iFan for what you want to do with regard to wiring.
2 Sonoff Basics, or that double Sonoff will do the job of switching.
If you want to control fan speed, you'll need to actually replace the driver inside the fan unit.

I bought the iFan on a whim to trial it out because it was stupidly cheap, so i have it already.

My understanding was as long as you put the pull chain on it's highest setting the controls will work to change speeds, but at the same time I rarely ever case to change the speed so just having it go on/off would also be fine enough.

Two basics or the iFan will take about the same amount of space inside, the benefit is the iFan has the remote so can still switch it by the wall socket side.

The main trick however is that I want to avoid getting into the roof at all costs, because getting to this particular section is not my idea of fun.

 

[JeffMan]

I bought the iFan on a whim to trial it out because it was stupidly cheap, so i have it already.

My understanding was as long as you put the pull chain on it's highest setting the controls will work to change speeds, but at the same time I rarely ever case to change the speed so just having it go on/off would also be fine enough.

Two basics or the iFan will take about the same amount of space inside, the benefit is the iFan has the remote so can still switch it by the wall socket side.

The main trick however is that I want to avoid getting into the roof at all costs, because getting to this particular section is not my idea of fun.

The driver should be in the fan itself - so you don't need to go in the roof.
Completely understand your aversion - HATE going in the roof