Home Automation - Smartkit

Spent forever trying to get the RM Pro+ to work with my doorbell - once I finally got it right it dawned on me that it's only a transmitter, not a receiver :laugh: At least I have something to control my cinema room devices :p
 
xrapidx said:
Spent forever trying to get the RM Pro+ to work with my doorbell - once I finally got it right it dawned on me that it's only a transmitter, not a receiver At least I have something to control my cinema room devices :p
Click to expand...
Hahaha
 
Hi All,

I've been referencing this thread a bit in the past week in trying to automate my gate motor, but search keeps taking me back to page 73 from early 2018 and at the time it appears to relate mostly to flashing Sonoff devices and using relays, whereas now the Sonoff SV has native inching support and these don't seem necessary.

I had a first go yesterday with a Sonoff SV, but ended up blowing some kind of circuit so it now no longer works, but in the process made some good progress on understanding the circuity and functioning. I've not worked with gate motors before and had to kind of explore how mine works.

I have an ET Nice Drive 500, most of the online guides I've found relate to Centurions, so I'm not sure how different it is. On the ET Nice (their installer guide is surprisingly detailed and useful (https://www.niceforyou.com/sites/de...uals/drive_500.600_installer_2016.001.002.pdf see page 15)).

From the guides on smartkit.co.za (but still using a separate relay) and other online stuff basically it appears I need to find the trigger contact, which appears to be the "BT" contact (button trigger) on the Drive 500. Now the issue I was having is that the negative contact of the Sonoff SV always carries a load, it's just a straight shot from input to output. The positive is switched by the relay.

From the guide on Smartkit: https://www.smartkit.co.za/using-the-sonoff-sv-with-a-relay-to-openclose-gate-remotely/ it says the positive connects to COM and the negative to the trigger, however as soon as I touch the negative to the "BT" it opens/closes to gate, regardless of the state of the Sonoff SV (and even after I blew it entirely and it no longer switched on).

There is no clear "COM" contact, but my intercom has a gate button and the negative from that appears to connect to the top GND contact (directly next to the BT contact) and the positive to the BT contact. I tried the same with the Sonoff, negative to GND and positive to BT, and even just positive to BT and leaving the negative disconnected as the BT circuit already has current input, so I think it just needs the positive to close the circuit?

Anyway, neither worked, although the Sonoff SV was working well with inching on a 1s inching timer. I used a multimeter to confirm that the current during the 1s "inching" was 14V (power input to the Sonoff SV directly from gate battery).

Anyone tried doing this with the Drive 500, or in general just have suggestions or advice on what I might be missing? I'll have to wait a few days for a new Sonoff SV now before I can try again but in the mean time want to do some research to try and get a head start for next attempt. Also if there's some part of this thread that addresses these items that I might have missed I'd appreciate if someone could direct me there.

Thanks!
 
I’m going to guess you didn’t make the Sonoff dry contact and sent 220v all the way to the output pins.

The motor is irrelevant to the equation. It will work on anything that supports a button.
 
Hi Guys
i have just received my Sonoff r3 switch and want to connect it to the pool pump.
the Pool Pump are directly connected to a separate circuit breaker on a DB board.
I understand the input and output, but I need to know, do I connect input straight into circuit breaker input and output directly to circuit breaker output IE pool pump live and neutral wires?

does someone maybe have a picture of how you wired yours?
 
michaelhub said:
Hi All,

I've been referencing this thread a bit in the past week in trying to automate my gate motor, but search keeps taking me back to page 73 from early 2018 and at the time it appears to relate mostly to flashing Sonoff devices and using relays, whereas now the Sonoff SV has native inching support and these don't seem necessary.

I had a first go yesterday with a Sonoff SV, but ended up blowing some kind of circuit so it now no longer works, but in the process made some good progress on understanding the circuity and functioning. I've not worked with gate motors before and had to kind of explore how mine works.

I have an ET Nice Drive 500, most of the online guides I've found relate to Centurions, so I'm not sure how different it is. On the ET Nice (their installer guide is surprisingly detailed and useful (https://www.niceforyou.com/sites/de...uals/drive_500.600_installer_2016.001.002.pdf see page 15)).

From the guides on smartkit.co.za (but still using a separate relay) and other online stuff basically it appears I need to find the trigger contact, which appears to be the "BT" contact (button trigger) on the Drive 500. Now the issue I was having is that the negative contact of the Sonoff SV always carries a load, it's just a straight shot from input to output. The positive is switched by the relay.

From the guide on Smartkit: https://www.smartkit.co.za/using-the-sonoff-sv-with-a-relay-to-openclose-gate-remotely/ it says the positive connects to COM and the negative to the trigger, however as soon as I touch the negative to the "BT" it opens/closes to gate, regardless of the state of the Sonoff SV (and even after I blew it entirely and it no longer switched on).

There is no clear "COM" contact, but my intercom has a gate button and the negative from that appears to connect to the top GND contact (directly next to the BT contact) and the positive to the BT contact. I tried the same with the Sonoff, negative to GND and positive to BT, and even just positive to BT and leaving the negative disconnected as the BT circuit already has current input, so I think it just needs the positive to close the circuit?

Anyway, neither worked, although the Sonoff SV was working well with inching on a 1s inching timer. I used a multimeter to confirm that the current during the 1s "inching" was 14V (power input to the Sonoff SV directly from gate battery).

Anyone tried doing this with the Drive 500, or in general just have suggestions or advice on what I might be missing? I'll have to wait a few days for a new Sonoff SV now before I can try again but in the mean time want to do some research to try and get a head start for next attempt. Also if there's some part of this thread that addresses these items that I might have missed I'd appreciate if someone could direct me there.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
I set up the SV with a Centurion motor exactly as per the SmartKit link you posted. It opens perfectly with a 0.5s inching timer.

Regardless, is it a consideration to apply the SV / relay setup to your intercom button instead of directly to the motor? Unless I misunderstood, you already have that circuit working so you could emulate a button press with the SV.
 
Smokey888 said:
Hi Guys
i have just received my Sonoff r3 switch and want to connect it to the pool pump.
the Pool Pump are directly connected to a separate circuit breaker on a DB board.
I understand the input and output, but I need to know, do I connect input straight into circuit breaker input and output directly to circuit breaker output IE pool pump live and neutral wires?

does someone maybe have a picture of how you wired yours?
Click to expand...
I have a Sonoff POW.
I have a circuit breaker for the pool in my house, and another circuit breaker in the pool box.
For live:
I took the live from the house circuit breaker output, through the POW input and to the pool box live connected to the POW output.
For neutral:
The pool box neutral was connected to the POW output, and a neutral wire connected to the neutral bar of the house distribution board connected to the POW input.
 
SauRoNZA said:
I’m going to guess you didn’t make the Sonoff dry contact and sent 220v all the way to the output pins.

The motor is irrelevant to the equation. It will work on anything that supports a button.
Click to expand...

The Sonoff SV was connected directly to the battery and i confirmed it was 14V DC with a multimeter, I wasn't using the isolated circuits mode with an AC input.

eehellfire said:
I set up the SV with a Centurion motor exactly as per the SmartKit link you posted. It opens perfectly with a 0.5s inching timer.

Regardless, is it a consideration to apply the SV / relay setup to your intercom button instead of directly to the motor? Unless I misunderstood, you already have that circuit working so you could emulate a button press with the SV.
Click to expand...

Well it's the same exact contacts on the gate motor that the intercom button is connected to, so essentially it's added as just another button. I fried it before I could finish my testing on the output on the positive side.

Can you or someone else elaborate on what the jumpers are for? The one appears to be to isolate the circuit in order to power it with 220V AC, from the SV's soldering instructions. The other appears to relate purely to whether the input is exactly 5V or variable between 5V and 24V? Should they be removed or remain if using a 14V DC Input? I got the SV connected to my WiFi and eWeLink fine, so the power source doesn't seem to have been the issue.

Also some guides mention removing resistors, but this might be on older versions of the SV?
 
michaelhub said:
The Sonoff SV was connected directly to the battery and i confirmed it was 14V DC with a multimeter, I wasn't using the isolated circuits mode with an AC input.



Well it's the same exact contacts on the gate motor that the intercom button is connected to, so essentially it's added as just another button. I fried it before I could finish my testing on the output on the positive side.

Can you or someone else elaborate on what the jumpers are for? The one appears to be to isolate the circuit in order to power it with 220V AC, from the SV's soldering instructions. The other appears to relate purely to whether the input is exactly 5V or variable between 5V and 24V? Should they be removed or remain if using a 14V DC Input? I got the SV connected to my WiFi and eWeLink fine, so the power source doesn't seem to have been the issue.

Also some guides mention removing resistors, but this might be on older versions of the SV?
Click to expand...
The one jumper to be removed is for variable input voltage.
 
SauRoNZA said:
I’m going to guess you didn’t make the Sonoff dry contact and sent 220v all the way to the output pins.

The motor is irrelevant to the equation. It will work on anything that supports a button.
Click to expand...
We'll be selling the Sonoff RE5V1C soon, which is 5V dry contact out the box.
 
michaelhub said:
The Sonoff SV was connected directly to the battery and i confirmed it was 14V DC with a multimeter, I wasn't using the isolated circuits mode with an AC input.
Click to expand...

You need to disable any input from going to the output otherwise you’ll put all that voltage into your gate motor which isn’t what you want.

I run mine from the 12V output of the garage motor itself.

Basic Smart Home
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...st.php?p=3402857&share_type=t&link_source=app
 
eehellfire said:
I have a Sonoff POW.
I have a circuit breaker for the pool in my house, and another circuit breaker in the pool box.
For live:
I took the live from the house circuit breaker output, through the POW input and to the pool box live connected to the POW output.
For neutral:
The pool box neutral was connected to the POW output, and a neutral wire connected to the neutral bar of the house distribution board connected to the POW input.
Click to expand...

Ok, so if I understand correctly, I should disconnect the live coming from main breaker to pool box breaker from the breaker itself, wire it into the Sonoff input. from the Sonoff output i should wire the live into the breaker output.
 
Smokey888 said:
Ok, so if I understand correctly, I should disconnect the live coming from main breaker to pool box breaker from the breaker itself, wire it into the Sonoff input. from the Sonoff output i should wire the live into the breaker output.
Click to expand...
The attached diagram shows what I did

EDIT: DISCLAIMER: I am not an electrician and am not giving you electrical advise. All such work should be carried out by a suitably qualified and certified professional
 

Attachments

  • pool wiring.png
    pool wiring.png
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eehellfire said:
The attached diagram shows what I did

EDIT: DISCLAIMER: I am not an electrician and am not giving you electrical advise. All such work should be carried out by a suitably qualified and certified professional
Click to expand...
exactly what I needed, thank you
 
eehellfire said:
The attached diagram shows what I did

EDIT: DISCLAIMER: I am not an electrician and am not giving you electrical advise. All such work should be carried out by a suitably qualified and certified professional
Click to expand...
I connected mine with the breaker before the sonoff. That way the sonoff is offline is someone leaves the breaker off, but maybe that's better than thinking the pump is on when it's not. Also if someone doesn't know about the sonoff and they just switch the breaker off and on then the pump will come on.
 
Hi guys, so I have recently become aware of Sonoff and even the notion of anything being controlled via wifi (I have seen it on youtube but did not realise it was available in SA)

What I would like to know is if I can connect this device to my geyser to control when it comes on and goes off? If so, which product from Sonoff should I get and if possible, how would i connect it?

Thanks
 
ahmedy said:
Hi guys, so I have recently become aware of Sonoff and even the notion of anything being controlled via wifi (I have seen it on youtube but did not realise it was available in SA)

What I would like to know is if I can connect this device to my geyser to control when it comes on and goes off? If so, which product from Sonoff should I get and if possible, how would i connect it?

Thanks
Click to expand...

You can just put the geyser on a timer, no need for it to be automated
 
ahmedy said:
Hi guys, so I have recently become aware of Sonoff and even the notion of anything being controlled via wifi (I have seen it on youtube but did not realise it was available in SA)

What I would like to know is if I can connect this device to my geyser to control when it comes on and goes off? If so, which product from Sonoff should I get and if possible, how would i connect it?

Thanks
Click to expand...
The POW R2 runs up to 15A/3000w geysers. If you're within that threshold this will suffice. It can be put in the ceiling or mounted on the DB board.

It has a scheduler and power monitor.
 
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