Home Automation - Smartkit

Tander said:
Is that nessasry still, when you can do that with the Sonoff?
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Not necessary but better and less effort.

The geyserwise already has a thermal prove inside the geyser and allows for a 5 degree variance/cool down to which my stats say make quite the difference apparently.

Sonoff was just easy to put inline to monitor how much it’s using and whether solar would be worth the cost down the line.

Replacing the whole thing would be harder and Expensive since the geyser doesn’t have a thermostat.
 
SauRoNZA said:
Not necessary but better and less effort.

The geyserwise already has a thermal prove inside the geyser and allows for a 5 degree variance/cool down to which my stats say make quite the difference apparently.

Sonoff was just easy to put inline to monitor how much it’s using and whether solar would be worth the cost down the line.

Replacing the whole thing would be harder and Expensive since the geyser doesn’t have a thermostat.
Click to expand...

This sounds like a very interesting project and exactly what ive had in mind recently.
Lots of arguments relating to electric geyser, vs solar vs gas and so many "test" that make no sense.

Read an article the other day where a guy just heated 100L of water every day and then dumped it with a geyser and with gas, to compare the estimated costs. Not taking into account actual usage cycles.

Very keen to see your "stats" and results if you dont mind sharing.
 
Gielie01 said:
This sounds like a very interesting project and exactly what ive had in mind recently.
Lots of arguments relating to electric geyser, vs solar vs gas and so many "test" that make no sense.

Read an article the other day where a guy just heated 100L of water every day and then dumped it with a geyser and with gas, to compare the estimated costs. Not taking into account actual usage cycles.

Very keen to see your "stats" and results if you dont mind sharing.
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Yeah I plan to publish after I have another full months data.

February will cause crap and mean some manual calculation on my part but so he it.

Needless to say at less than 200kw per month during summer so far I’m not quite seeing the solar application really paying for itself.
 
Steamy Tom said:
@xrapidx

i found this online... this is obviously setup slightly diff to keep the lock closed on power but i think the principle is the same.

I think a sonoff sv in dry contact (isolated mode) is def the way to go, and i would set PulseTime1 1 (adjust this to longer obv if needed) if you have tasmotised it, if you are still using ewelink then set inching on

View attachment 782598
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Thanks - interesting to see what CONTROL is used for. The above is basically how I'm wired up, besides the striker being NO.

I'll also try a shorter PulseTime, currently 10.
 
xrapidx said:
Thanks - interesting to see what CONTROL is used for. The above is basically how I'm wired up, besides the striker being NO.

I'll also try a shorter PulseTime, currently 10.
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Yeah Pulsetime can be tricky.

I ended up settling on either 5 or 10.

1 was always too short for all my needs.
 
xrapidx said:
Thanks - interesting to see what CONTROL is used for. The above is basically how I'm wired up, besides the striker being NO.

I'll also try a shorter PulseTime, currently 10.
Click to expand...

yeah i think the idea here is to simulate a push button, the "psu" will operate its own relay according to its time, you could essentially test by shorting GND and push for 1 sec with a wire
 
SykomantiS said:
Ladies & gents,
I'm looking for a DB-mountable smart/wi-fi switch to run our geyser off of.
Please point me in the right direction?

Preferably something with scheduling ability and time-keeping that can survive load shedding (having to reprogram those major-tech ones every time it loses time is a real ball-ache)
Click to expand...

I have two geysers in my house, so bought and installed two SONOFF POW R2. The one draws just under 3.5kw and been running it for six months with no problems. However, when I installed it on the second geyser, it was drawing 4.5kw, so decided not to chance it and removed it. I have since installed "KTNNKG AC85-260V 30A 3000W High Power WIFI Smart Switch" and been using it for the past 4 months with no issues. Unfortunately, it does not have power monitoring.
 
Looks like PulseTime 2 works - and no more reset:
Code: 
08:30:29 CMD: PulseTime 2
08:30:29 MQT: stat/EntranceDoor/RESULT = {"PulseTime1":{"Set":2,"Remaining":2}}
08:30:30 MQT: stat/EntranceDoor/RESULT = {"POWER":"OFF"}
08:30:30 MQT: stat/EntranceDoor/POWER = OFF
08:30:52 MQT: stat/EntranceDoor/RESULT = {"POWER":"ON"}
08:30:52 MQT: stat/EntranceDoor/POWER = ON
08:30:52 MQT: stat/EntranceDoor/RESULT = {"POWER":"OFF"}
08:30:52 MQT: stat/EntranceDoor/POWER = OFF
08:31:56 APP: Serial logging disabled
08:32:08 MQT: tele/EntranceDoor/STATE = {"Time":"2020-02-13T08:32:08","Uptime":"0T00:10:12","UptimeSec":612,"Heap":26,"SleepMode":"Dynamic","Sleep":50,"LoadAvg":19,"MqttCount":1,"POWER":"OFF","Wifi":{"AP":1,"SSId":"Home","BSSId":"86:83:C2:91:00:42","Channel":11,"RSSI":42,"Signal":-79,"LinkCount":1,"Downtime":"0T00:00:06"}}
 
xrapidx said:
Looks like PulseTime 2 works - and no more reset:
Code: 
08:30:29 CMD: PulseTime 2
08:30:29 MQT: stat/EntranceDoor/RESULT = {"PulseTime1":{"Set":2,"Remaining":2}}
08:30:30 MQT: stat/EntranceDoor/RESULT = {"POWER":"OFF"}
08:30:30 MQT: stat/EntranceDoor/POWER = OFF
08:30:52 MQT: stat/EntranceDoor/RESULT = {"POWER":"ON"}
08:30:52 MQT: stat/EntranceDoor/POWER = ON
08:30:52 MQT: stat/EntranceDoor/RESULT = {"POWER":"OFF"}
08:30:52 MQT: stat/EntranceDoor/POWER = OFF
08:31:56 APP: Serial logging disabled
08:32:08 MQT: tele/EntranceDoor/STATE = {"Time":"2020-02-13T08:32:08","Uptime":"0T00:10:12","UptimeSec":612,"Heap":26,"SleepMode":"Dynamic","Sleep":50,"LoadAvg":19,"MqttCount":1,"POWER":"OFF","Wifi":{"AP":1,"SSId":"Home","BSSId":"86:83:C2:91:00:42","Channel":11,"RSSI":42,"Signal":-79,"LinkCount":1,"Downtime":"0T00:00:06"}}
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nice :)
 
Steamy Tom said:
meh just flash it
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Agreed. Seems still a bit wobbly based on what Dr ZZZ's shows in the video. This is nice for people starting out but flashing is still the best way to get the most out of that ESP chip in my opinion.
 
Steamy Tom said:
haha it is joining 4 wires onto a chip :p
Click to expand...
Finally got this working. After figuring out how to program another output on the panel, I attached a 12V relay to it to give me a dry contact for my SV GPIO and presto! :cool: Took me long enough! :X3:
 
skefda said:
Agreed. Seems still a bit wobbly based on what Dr ZZZ's shows in the video. This is nice for people starting out but flashing is still the best way to get the most out of that ESP chip in my opinion.
Click to expand...

i find his videos pretty bad in general from my experience, he generally has gaps
 
skefda said:
Finally got this working. After figuring out how to program another output on the panel, I attached a 12V relay to it to give me a dry contact for my SV GPIO and presto! :cool: Took me long enough! :X3:
Click to expand...

nice :D
 
I wouldnt mind doing my switches, but my house is too complicated, not a single single wall switch... All are two - three two way switches with dimmers.
 
xrapidx said:
I wouldnt mind doing my switches, but my house is too complicated, not a single single wall switch... All are two - three two way switches with dimmers.
Click to expand...

so 2 way switches are easy and you get dimmable options also - but yes i get not as simple. as a side note you can make 2 way switches without physical wiring with sonoff switches using scenes.
 
xrapidx said:
I wouldnt mind doing my switches, but my house is too complicated, not a single single wall switch... All are two - three two way switches with dimmers.
Click to expand...

Got the same problem as you. Most my switch panels have 3 / 4 buttons.
 
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