Home Automation - Smartkit

Any reason you would choose to connect to a different GND than the one the keypad is already connected to?

Granted they might be the same, but they also might not and it just seems logical to me you’d want to use all the same connections.

one would hope/assume they are all bridged?
 
Hate to bring up geysers again, a while back some reported using a Pow with a 3KW geyser.

Is everything still working well?

Yup.

Rock solid for three months now.

8195af82049b6e407ca307f75e06141b.jpg


Note however that it is always on and I don’t use the relay at all it’s purely there for monitoring and the odd chance I maybe forget to turn it off when away on holiday or something.
 
Yup.

Rock solid for three months now.

8195af82049b6e407ca307f75e06141b.jpg


Note however that it is always on and I don’t use the relay at all it’s purely there for monitoring and the odd chance I maybe forget to turn it off when away on holiday or something.

I have a POW ready to be used for my Geyser. I am just worried I have a 4KW element attached to it, POW will only do 3.5K. Is there a way to check?

Also, how did you get monthly / daily usage - mind sharing the card details?

Thanks!
 
I have a POW ready to be used for my Geyser. I am just worried I have a 4KW element attached to it, POW will only do 3.5K. Is there a way to check?

Also, how did you get monthly / daily usage - mind sharing the card details?

Thanks!

i would also appreciate his config?

4kw is too much, the unit is rated at 15/16 Amp, if you do the math 4kW is TOO much.
 
I know. I'm asking how do I check if my geyser is 3Kw or 4Kw. :)

ah sorry :) i suppose the easiest way is with a clamp meter really, what size is your geyser, do you know?

do you perhaps have a prepaid meter that shows load at all?
 
Any reason you would choose to connect to a different GND than the one the keypad is already connected to?

Granted they might be the same, but they also might not and it just seems logical to me you’d want to use all the same connections.

Presumably there is also power running to the lock itself?
Had them all on one initially, just easier wiring like this.
your is power to unlock assuming that you are connected to N/O? if you open it via the keypad, what do you measure between GND and PUSH as well as between 12V and PUSH?
I'll measure ... Need help from my unwilling assistant as the keypad is not in reach
 
ah sorry :) i suppose the easiest way is with a clamp meter really, what size is your geyser, do you know?

do you perhaps have a prepaid meter that shows load at all?

No worries.
It's 200L. I have a smart meter that shows roughly 3.5Kw extra load when its on. Not sure if that's safe to assume it isn't 4Kw.
 
No worries.
It's 200L. I have a smart meter that shows roughly 3.5Kw extra load when its on. Not sure if that's safe to assume it isn't 4Kw.

if you turn off absolutely everything else - probably best after a shower - turn the geyser off before the shower so you can be sure it is on to the max) - what does it show
 
I have a POW ready to be used for my Geyser. I am just worried I have a 4KW element attached to it, POW will only do 3.5K. Is there a way to check?

Also, how did you get monthly / daily usage - mind sharing the card details?

Thanks!

i would also appreciate his config?

4kw is too much, the unit is rated at 15/16 Amp, if you do the math 4kW is TOO much.

Built into HA.

Code:
utility_meter:
  daily_energy:
    source: sensor.geyser_energy_total
    cycle: daily
  monthly_energy:
    source: sensor.geyser_energy_total
    cycle: monthly
 
Yup.

Rock solid for three months now.

8195af82049b6e407ca307f75e06141b.jpg


Note however that it is always on and I don’t use the relay at all it’s purely there for monitoring and the odd chance I maybe forget to turn it off when away on holiday or something.
Noice, pretty much have the same use case as you. Did a few things to drop my electricity usage (switched stuff to gas, LED everywhere, etc) but my bill stayed the same for the past few months. Not having a meter on the property makes it even worse to track usage.

Only thing I have left to check is the geyser.
 
@xrapidx

i found this online... this is obviously setup slightly diff to keep the lock closed on power but i think the principle is the same.

I think a sonoff sv in dry contact (isolated mode) is def the way to go, and i would set PulseTime1 1 (adjust this to longer obv if needed) if you have tasmotised it, if you are still using ewelink then set inching on

striker setup.JPG
 
Noice, pretty much have the same use case as you. Did a few things to drop my electricity usage (switched stuff to gas, LED everywhere, etc) but my bill stayed the same for the past few months. Not having a meter on the property makes it even worse to track usage.

Only thing I have left to check is the geyser.

Yeah I have a geyserwise attached to it so running it on different schedules every month to find a sweet spot.

Also to have some real data for the eternal internet argument of whether geyser timers work or not.
 
Yeah I have a geyserwise attached to it so running it on different schedules every month to find a sweet spot.

Also to have some real data for the eternal internet argument of whether geyser timers work or not.

Is that nessasry still, when you can do that with the Sonoff?
 
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