Home Automation - Smartkit

ebendl said:
Where would you buy them from?

And which ones are you looking into?

I have a 300 m^2 house with lots of walls so I probably need two or three hardwired to one another.
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I would do 3 or 4 with AC for that size.
 
ebendl said:
Where would you buy them from?

And which ones are you looking into?

I have a 300 m^2 house with lots of walls so I probably need two or three hardwired to one another.
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Takealot most likely.

There’s the long range model that seems the better bet if you want more coverage and less units.

If you are happy to do 3 and place accordingly you’ll probably do as well with the Lite’s.

https://www.takealot.com/ubiquiti-unifi-802-11ac-long-range-access-point/PLID40890861

Check this out on takealot.com, https://www.takealot.com/ubiquiti-unifi-802-11ac-dual-band-access-point/PLID40890860

But they are limited to 300Mb on 2.4. However most client devices will be limited the same so it’s much of a muchness really versus the 450 on the LR.

R4000 odd for two LR’s or R4500 for 3 Lites so it’s an interesting decision to make.

******

Walls are one thing but these ceiling mount and so tend to go over walls depending on your roof construction so you might very well find a single LR is enough to cover the inside of the house.

In my case needing the access outside by the gate covered and also the furthest bedroom while having an odd roof construction I might not be so lucky.

My house is also about 300sq but including the reach to front gate it’s probably leaning to 400sq.

Silly U-shaped house means I have three crappy multi vendor independent units right now which cover it all but there is no reliable handover between them because the client holds onto the lowest signal until death so them part.

With Unifi the handover is managed access point side and because the AP’s are all aware of each other and every client they can force the handover to the best device (especially for moving devices) and that’s why their networks are so bulletproof.

It’s really a case of set and forget and never touch again unless you can’t help yourself.
 
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Generally more units are better than higher power (LR) units because the transmit power of your phone or laptop is still the same.
 
phaktza said:
That is from Shelly directly - can't get more direct. My product manager has assured me it will be shipping in a few days.

Edit: my guess is some of the newer products are having trouble with demand.

Also Hungary just had a two week holiday.
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Ah ok, so pointless trying to place an order through them myself then.
 
rorz0r said:
Generally more units are better than higher power (LR) units because the transmit power of your phone or laptop is still the same.
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This exactly, they are also really easy to cable through and setup, I would go with more units than "stronger" units every time. The LR ones from my experience dont offer much more range than standard ones.
 
Any smart home/Alexa compatible thermostats for underfloor heating?

The elements range from 1.5kw to 3.5kw
 
ebendl said:
I am so close to pulling the trigger on Ubiquity wifi aps. Have 40+ devices on my network at the moment and it suffers.
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Go Unifi, do it!
I have a Unifi AP pro after also struggling with all kinds of other options. Best decision ever. It just works. Also like how simple it was to set up a guest network. Guests have no access to anything else on my network except the one chromecast.
 
Recallza said:
Also trying to look for a solution for my Geyser, as my geyser is 4kW :(
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Do what I did, I dropped my geyser to a 3kw (well the 4kw element failed). Four months later with a sonoff pow r2 = happy days
 
Recallza said:
Is it just a matter of purchasing the 3kw element and replacing? Or do I need to buy a new geyser?
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Nope, geyser remains the same. Mines was 200l geyser, so dropping to 3kw means I just need to keep it on a bit longer - right now, goes on for 2 hours every afternoon to be ready for kids bath in evening and the parents in the morning. No one has complained so far.

To replace element, you need to empty geyser, swap element, and the same time, replace the gasket (I think that's the term) and you should be fine.

 
AntennaMan said:
Buy a contactor that you can control from any Sonoff.
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But if you want to see how much power the geyser is using, u need a pow r2, and by using a contactor, you lose that. Of course, this only important for those of us who want to monitor power usage of the geyser.
 
InternetLuddite said:
But if you want to see how much power the geyser is using, u need a pow r2, and by using a contactor, you lose that. Of course, this only important for those of us who want to monitor power usage of the geyser.
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Or you could use an external CT clamp to monitor the geyser. Thats what I do, as I have no desire to turn it off.
 
InternetLuddite said:
But if you want to see how much power the geyser is using, u need a pow r2, and by using a contactor, you lose that. Of course, this only important for those of us who want to monitor power usage of the geyser.
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My big concern with the pow R2 is the fact that it is rated for 16A with an operating temp of 0 to 40C. Your geyser should be protected by an appropriate circuit breaker, and not by the Sonoff.
 
AntennaMan said:
My big concern with the pow R2 is the fact that it is rated for 16A with an operating temp of 0 to 40C. Your geyser should be protected by an appropriate circuit breaker, and not by the Sonoff.
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Even so, the Sonoff needs to handle the current that will be flowing through it.
 
Tinuva said:
Even so, the Sonoff needs to handle the current that will be flowing through it.
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Can't the sonoff be put before the Geyser circuit breaker? or does that defete the purpose? I know nothing about electronics so there is a big chance I'm talking kak haha
 
Recallza said:
Can't the sonoff be put before the Geyser circuit breaker? or does that defete the purpose? I know nothing about electronics so there is a big chance I'm talking kak haha
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A Geyser can theoretically draw more than 16A, so one of the POW R2s anywhere in that circuit would run a real risk of constant overload and be a huge fire hazard...

Putting it before the circuit breaker would be even more dangerous
 
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