Home Automation - Smartkit

SauRoNZA said:
Any particular reason for moving away from Hass.io?
Click to expand...

More likely the case that the Pi proved too underpowered or he got SD card issues (I'm on my 3rd SD card already and I really need to move my database off the SD card)
 
SauRoNZA said:
Any particular reason for moving away from Hass.io?
Click to expand...
The Pi was getting a bit slow with NodeRed installed on it as well.
I had just upgraded my Centos development machine which stays on 24/7 so I decided that I may as well use it for HA as well. No other specific reason.
 
ebendl said:
More likely the case that the Pi proved too underpowered or he got SD card issues (I'm on my 3rd SD card already and I really need to move my database off the SD card)
Click to expand...
Yep, I had already moved to a MySQL docker also after a couple of SD card issues.
 
ebendl said:
More likely the case that the Pi proved too underpowered or he got SD card issues (I'm on my 3rd SD card already and I really need to move my database off the SD card)
Click to expand...

I saw they have some SSD based storage expansion module now.

Was stupidly expensive though.
 
SauRoNZA said:
Easy Mode - You port forward into it.

Harder Mode - Use Dynamic DNS to make the above much less painful.

Hard Mode - You use Letsencrypt + DuckDNS to make it properly secure (also required if you ever want to use the iOS App)

www.home-assistant.io

Remote access to Home Assistant

There are different ways to reach your Home Assistant from outside your home network. The recommended option is Home Assistant Cloud, which works without exposing anything to the internet.
www.home-assistant.io www.home-assistant.io
Click to expand...

Easy Mode - Nabu Casa Subscription
 
SauRoNZA said:
Which is for Home Assistant only? Or other services too?
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AFAIK only for Home Assistant, but it includes any add-ons (i.e. other Docker containers) run in Hass.io (if you're running Hass.io).

It's very simple to use and probably the best security for most of the "normals" out there (who doesn't know about reverse proxies, port forwarding, dynamic DNS, SSL certificates, port-opening etc.)
 
ebendl said:
I'd say no on the first two -- too insecure. I struggled a bit with Letsencrypt + DuckDNS but eventually noticed:
1) IF you use DuckDNS add-on in Hassio then Letsencrypt comes with it automatically
2) You just need to figure out how to set up loop-back port forwarding so that it works inside your network too
3) You need to open up the correct ports to let Letsencrypt do its thing the first time (if I recall correctly).

My opinion on the easiest -- activate the Nabucasa Home Assistant cloud option and pay $5 a month to support this great piece of software. It opens up a pipe between your HA and their servers and provides you with a generated, unique URL that you can plug into the IOS app, your Android browser etc. Works very well and is more secure since you're not opening up any ports.
Click to expand...
And that gives voice control too with Alexa and Google home without needing to jump through other hoops right ? May do this too . Have duckdns and letsencrypt working well.
 
SauRoNZA said:
How point and click is it? With Unraid you still need to nerd quite a bit with some of the Dockers. It seems the support is much favourable for these Hass.io dockers.
Click to expand...

Its very easy to setup. Couple of clicks to install the addon.

InternetLuddite said:
What are you using for presence detection ?
I have the Dark Sky thing going but it doesn't look anything like your guys. Can you post the code for that if possible?
Click to expand...

I use the netgear and google maps device trackers. I also have a Bluetooth dongle and use a monitor script (https://community.home-assistant.io...-bluetooth-occupancy-presence-detection/68505) . It is configured to scan on departure and arrivals.

For the weather I use the a custom dark sky weather card. https://community.home-assistant.io/t/custom-dark-sky-animated-weather-card/59816.
 
Need to replace my entire security system.

Require system that will incorporate panic buttons, external beams and cameras.

Any recommendations ito installers, aystems, ootions etc that is smart home level? Otherwise stuck with ADT vs Chubb/National.
 
Okay so it seems my wiring up of the Sonoff Pow to the geyser in and of itself wasn’t the problem...because it’s still tripping at random.

Well not quite random, I’m reasonably sure it trips when reaching it’s peak of 55-degrees.

Think is that there isn’t a thermostat as such which would be the expected culprit, there is a Geyserwise that manages all that.

So is this purely piss poor luck or did I somehow accidentally shift or move something? I only worked at the isolator switch in between never going near either the geyser or Geyserwise.

What’s bizarre to me is that it works just fine and stays on for extended periods happily so I’m not sure it’s an element problem or anything like that.

Only trips the breaker for the geyser, not the earth leakage.

****

Reading the Geyserwise manual I’ve just learnt that it’s in fact wired up wrong in that it’s meant to go after the isolator and not before as it is now.

Doesn’t make much difference and it’s been working fine like this for three years but still annoys me.

Thermostat or element failure is meant to produce an error code on the Geyserwise, which if it exists I don’t see because it’s dead.

Also means I can’t just bypass the Geyserwise to test as the geyser would pop then.

Is there any logic in replacing the isolator switch? Since that’s the only place I actually worked.

Also is it weird for the isolator to be 30A but the circuit breaker only 20A?
 
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adielk said:
Need to replace my entire security system.

Require system that will incorporate panic buttons, external beams and cameras.

Any recommendations ito installers, aystems, ootions etc that is smart home level? Otherwise stuck with ADT vs Chubb/National.
Click to expand...

DIY :p

but if you aren't into that then maybe state your area...
 
SauRoNZA said:
Also is it weird for the isolator to be 30A but the circuit breaker only 20A?
Click to expand...

No that is perfectly normal.

About it tripping, if it only does it when the element is supposed to turn off, the circuit breaker will trip when the current passing through it is higher than it's rating for an extended period of time.
So, is there not perhaps a short being created but only when the element is off? ie. An output on the geyserwise that is connected to an earth or neutral perhaps or something like that?
 
Düber said:
No that is perfectly normal.

About it tripping, if it only does it when the element is supposed to turn off, the circuit breaker will trip when the current passing through it is higher than it's rating for an extended period of time.
So, is there not perhaps a short being created but only when the element is off? ie. An output on the geyserwise that is connected to an earth or neutral perhaps or something like that?
Click to expand...

Wouldn’t it then trip repeatedly when in an off state when I turn it back on?

Because there the odd thing it has never even once has a problem turning back on in the twenty odd times I’ve needed to do it and it’s been in either on or off state.

I mean I literally took the wiring from the isolator and ran it into the Sonoff and then this started. Now I put it all back exactly the way it was (I mean I took pictures just in case) and it’s still doing this.

Didn’t touch the geyser itself. If it was a case of maybe shearing a wire and it making contact permanently then it should surely trip the moment it goes on but in my case it will be at 20 degrees even, turn on and warm up all the way to 55 and be happy.

Then somewhere along the line it trips. I’ve not managed to force it to do so while watching it.
 
SauRoNZA said:
Wouldn’t it then trip repeatedly when in an off state when I turn it back on?
Click to expand...
Most likely would yes.
How old is the breaker? It might be worth getting a new one, they are not expensive, just to test and rule out one part of the system.

Just thinking.
You do get different trip curves, not very clued up about the differences, but the jist of it (as I understand it) is that some some trip the instant the current is at the limit whilst others are a bit more tolerant of a few peaks ie. motor starting etc. grasping at a straw here perhaps but maybe as it disconnects the arc at the contacts might be momentarily peaking out the limit?

https://testguy.net/content/197-Characteristics-of-Circuit-Breaker-Trip-Curves-and-Coordination
Explains it better than me.
 
What just baffles me is how it could have changed since it has been working fine for three odd years since I’ve been in this house.

Only because I fiddled with a Sonoff in the middle did this problem start.

Breaker should be about 7 years old, same as the house.
 
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