Home Automation - Smartkit

SauRoNZA said:
Nothing like that with the Sonoff, there is are only one set of connections and everything else is software controlled with Tasmota (or Ewelink).

PulseTime = X time delay.
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Yeah sorry I was meaning with Tasmota, its been a while since I setup anything that needed it but yeah PulseTime was what I used for my garage and front gate control.
 
Need to remotely open my Centurion gate motor via home assistant.
Is the Sonoff SV still the way to go, or have things moved on?
 
semiautomatix said:
I've used both and settled on the RE5V1C - for some reason the Shelly stopped responding, though was great when it worked. Of course the SV has GPIO pins for open and shut.
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Ok will check it out. Being a gate and not caring about state should be easy. Just open and open. SV is nice as it can be powered straight off the 24v battery. The RE5V1C will need a buck down to 5v.
 
calypso said:
Ok will check it out. Being a gate and not caring about state should be easy. Just open and open. SV is nice as it can be powered straight off the 24v battery. The RE5V1C will need a buck down to 5v.
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I just used an old phone charger. But if you don't have a spare plug then use the SV.
 
Haven't touched my smart home stuff in a while, and we're busy with renovations so now is probably a good time to consider what to do in the new area. A bit out of the loop with the latest devices

Is the Sonoff Mini the best option if I want to use a normal light switch with lights? Even more so, a 2 way light switch that doesn't have a specific on/off position - since it will just toggle the state of the light?
 
SAguy said:
Haven't touched my smart home stuff in a while, and we're busy with renovations so now is probably a good time to consider what to do in the new area. A bit out of the loop with the latest devices

Is the Sonoff Mini the best option if I want to use a normal light switch with lights? Even more so, a 2 way light switch that doesn't have a specific on/off position - since it will just toggle the state of the light?
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I would use the actual light switches or else just use a basic. The mini and the basic so the same thing for that application and the basic is less than half the price.
 
Steamy Tom said:
I would use the actual light switches or else just use a basic. The mini and the basic so the same thing for that application and the basic is less than half the price.
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With the basic though, if I have the light switch off and want to switch it on with the the app then would I be able to? And visa/versa - I thought only the mini had this, similar to the Shelly's that have terminals for physical light switches.

I have the Sonoff T1 on some of my lights, but both wife and I miss the physical light switch.
 
SAguy said:
With the basic though, if I have the light switch off and want to switch it on with the the app then would I be able to? And visa/versa - I thought only the mini had this, similar to the Shelly's that have terminals for physical light switches.

I have the Sonoff T1 on some of my lights, but both wife and I miss the physical light switch.
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Yes you can I will post you a pic of a mock up I did when I can later. Also are you running a hub or anything? And do you flash yours with tasmota or use ewelink?
 
Steamy Tom said:
Yes you can I will post you a pic of a mock up I did when I can later. Also are you running a hub or anything? And do you flash yours with tasmota or use ewelink?
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I use tasmota and homeassistant
Thanks so much, appreciate it
 
SAguy said:
I use tasmota and homeassistant
Thanks so much, appreciate it
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perfect then - you just set the GPIO3 in the configuration to Switch1 and set switchtopic2 'statenamehere'

then you solder your wires to ground and RX on the sonoff (this is the best combination as others are either booting high or low)

I would say to buy a light switch that the switch only toggles rather than a fixed switch or else it will get out of sync if you toggle it via the app and then the switch etc - but it will still work nicely either way. you would then set the pin to be a button rather than a switch.

IMG_20200318_080034.jpg
IMG_20200318_080143.jpg
 
Steamy Tom said:
perfect then - you just set the GPIO3 in the configuration to Switch1 and set switchtopic2 'statenamehere'

then you solder your wires to ground and RX on the sonoff (this is the best combination as others are either booting high or low)

I would say to buy a light switch that the switch only toggles rather than a fixed switch or else it will get out of sync if you toggle it via the app and then the switch etc - but it will still work nicely either way. you would then set the pin to be a button rather than a switch.

View attachment 802495
View attachment 802497
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Just note that you may have to add a low-pass filter (resistor and a cap) as you may find ghost-switching to be a problem.
 
Steamy Tom said:
perfect then - you just set the GPIO3 in the configuration to Switch1 and set switchtopic2 'statenamehere'

then you solder your wires to ground and RX on the sonoff (this is the best combination as others are either booting high or low)

I would say to buy a light switch that the switch only toggles rather than a fixed switch or else it will get out of sync if you toggle it via the app and then the switch etc - but it will still work nicely either way. you would then set the pin to be a button rather than a switch.

View attachment 802495
View attachment 802497
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Didn't know this was possible, thanks for this.
Given the wire you're using to the switch, I'm assuming that it's just the board voltage that goes to the switch and back and not 220V? Given the low voltage would you imaging having any issues if the sonoff and light switch were further apart?

ebendl said:
Just note that you may have to add a low-pass filter (resistor and a cap) as you may find ghost-switching to be a problem.
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Will read up on this in combination with @Steamy Tom 's advice and see how essential it is. Thanks
 
SAguy said:
Didn't know this was possible, thanks for this.
Given the wire you're using to the switch, I'm assuming that it's just the board voltage that goes to the switch and back and not 220V? Given the low voltage would you imaging having any issues if the sonoff and light switch were further apart?


Will read up on this in combination with @Steamy Tom 's advice and see how essential it is. Thanks
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yeah the switch side is regular low voltage that the chip operates on, you could run it a good couple meters and be fine. I am planning on putting another in where the sonoff will live in the light fitting and i will push only the comms cable down the wall conduit. i have a switch operating on my garage motor that runs a good 5m and no issues, i think you could easily go as much as 10-15m and not see a significant drop off on good quality wire.
 
Steamy Tom said:
yeah the switch side is regular low voltage that the chip operates on, you could run it a good couple meters and be fine. I am planning on putting another in where the sonoff will live in the light fitting and i will push only the comms cable down the wall conduit. i have a switch operating on my garage motor that runs a good 5m and no issues, i think you could easily go as much as 10-15m and not see a significant drop off on good quality wire.
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Cool, I've got a basic here somewhere that I'll try this with. Putting the sonoff in the light fitting, or surface box in the ceiling would make it easier for situations where there is no neutral.
 
SAguy said:
Cool, I've got a basic here somewhere that I'll try this with. Putting the sonoff in the light fitting, or surface box in the ceiling would make it easier for situations where there is no neutral.
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exactly!
 
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