Home Automation - Smartkit

Out of interest, it's pretty cool knowing that I can use a sonoff mini with the sherlo remote receivers that I have for my gate and alarm.

Busy running some boundary lights and this lets me either use my sherlo remote (if I'm driving home in the dark at night, or letting guests out at night) - or I can use home assistant (and later google home) to toggle the lights.

Tying older tactile tech and newer smart devices together is important to me, so this worked out quite nicely when I put together a little test rig yesterday.
How do you use the sonoff mini with sherlo remotes? Isn't there the 315Mhz/433Mhz difference?
 
With Tasmota - there's an upgrade path - most of my devices are on v5. Can you go through the minimal versions until v8.2, or do you need to go minimal -> normal -> minimal -> normal, etc.

Turns out you can.
 
How do you use the sonoff mini with sherlo remotes? Isn't there the 315Mhz/433Mhz difference?
he is using it with a receiver... the frequency of the sherlo makes no diff

Yip, as per @Steamy Tom, I'm using the Sherlo Receiver along with the mini. So Instead of having S1 and S2 go to a light switch as per below, it goes to the Sherlo receiver.

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You know, sometimes it just doesn't take in the last few seconds and we miss it (cable comes loose or something else).
Not to worry, these things happen. Just glad I got it sorted.
 
It makes me happy when you bought a new house and you see this

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Neutral included at the light switches!
 
It makes me happy when you bought a new house and you see this

88b56c6d514716712513c073e773e5b9.jpg


Neutral included at the light switches!

Very nice indeed.

If I ever buy a new house again it will be the first thing I check and if it’s not there I’ll ask them to let the certification electrician pull it all in before I move in as part of the contract.
 
Very nice indeed.

If I ever buy a new house again it will be the first thing I check and if it’s not there I’ll ask them to let the certification electrician pull it all in before I move in as part of the contract.
Good call. I didn't realise it when my wife said the house was built in 1998 which is kinda new, but I suspect that may be part of the reason. Because the technique used changed. Instead of having those white plastic tubing all over the ceiling, its only in the walls now, and from there the cable is loose in the ceiling. They do however use different cables, its not the loose cables anymore, but instead insulated single cable. I noticed this, when I was selling the previous house and the electrician fixed some stuff I never did properly.
 
Good call. I didn't realise it when my wife said the house was built in 1998 which is kinda new, but I suspect that may be part of the reason. Because the technique used changed. Instead of having those white plastic tubing all over the ceiling, its only in the walls now, and from there the cable is loose in the ceiling. They do however use different cables, its not the loose cables anymore, but instead insulated single cable. I noticed this, when I was selling the previous house and the electrician fixed some stuff I never did properly.

My house is only 9 years old and it’s much the same with tubes only in the wall and then loose wiring in the ceiling like you describe but no neutrals anywhere that I’ve opened to have a look.

Even my plumbing is loose but this is because it’s some fancy stuff that doesn’t use any copper or tubing but is more like a very fancy garden hose.
 
My house is only 9 years old and it’s much the same with tubes only in the wall and then loose wiring in the ceiling like you describe but no neutrals anywhere that I’ve opened to have a look.

Even my plumbing is loose but this is because it’s some fancy stuff that doesn’t use any copper or tubing but is more like a very fancy garden hose.
Ok thats interesting. Previous house was like 40 years old and have the same tubing for the plumbing you describe.

This house, I have no idea why there neutrals but I won't complain. Saving me so much time now.
 
My house is only 9 years old and it’s much the same with tubes only in the wall and then loose wiring in the ceiling like you describe but no neutrals anywhere that I’ve opened to have a look.
That's odd, from what I can remember/have read general house wire cable needs to be in conduit for compliance. With twin and earth cable you don't need the conduit because it has a uv stable PVC sheathing.

The guy that did my aircon installation also said the same thing when I asked him about why he wasn't running the cables through conduit.

My house is super old and has metal conduit that seems to have been welded shut. Gave up on getting smart light switches and have basics at each light :(
 
That's odd, from what I can remember/have read general house wire cable needs to be in conduit for compliance. With twin and earth cable you don't need the conduit because it has a uv stable PVC sheathing.

The guy that did my aircon installation also said the same thing when I asked him about why he wasn't running the cables through conduit.

My house is super old and has metal conduit that seems to have been welded shut. Gave up on getting smart light switches and have basics at each light :(

As far as I know the only requirement is that areas with open contacts must be in conduits.

Walls are obviously in conduit as there is no other way to manage it.
 
Very proud of my first little HA automation, using a Sonoff RF + IR remote to turn on the bathroom heater. Once the heater is turned on HA will automatically turn it off after 30 minutes. It's the last thing I want running accidentally.
 
Very proud of my first little HA automation, using a Sonoff RF + IR remote to turn on the bathroom heater. Once the heater is turned on HA will automatically turn it off after 30 minutes. It's the last thing I want running accidentally.
Nice, with ESPHome you can have that automation on the device itself so if HA is down for whatever reason it will still work.
 
Nice, with ESPHome you can have that automation on the device itself so if HA is down for whatever reason it will still work.
I was thinking I could do this on Tasmota itself? Maybe with pulse setting - by setting the pulse length to 30 minutes?
 
I was thinking I could do this on Tasmota itself? Maybe with pulse setting - by setting the pulse length to 30 minutes?

Hmm and interesting thought and I don’t see why I wouldn’t work as long as it supports such a long time period of course.

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Just checked and found examples of pulsetime supporting values of an hour so you can definitely do this.
 
Hmm and interesting thought and I don’t see why I wouldn’t work as long as it supports such a long time period of course.

****

Just checked and found examples of pulsetime supporting values of an hour so you can definitely do this.
We'll always switch off the heater, so my HA automation is just a backup - so not sure if I should do it on the switch too.

I'm deploying all my changes via scripts and code, so easier to maintain now - just need to script the deployment of changes directly to the tasmota devices too
 
We'll always switch off the heater, so my HA automation is just a backup - so not sure if I should do it on the switch too.

I'm deploying all my changes via scripts and code, so easier to maintain now - just need to script the deployment of changes directly to the tasmota devices too

Using something special for that deployment?

Or do you just mean in the backend rather than in the GUI?
 
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