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That's right only 5 are mine and 30 are not.So you saying only 5 of those zones are yours and the rest aren't?
Wierd. Are you connecting directly to IP150 or via Swan?
When I first connected , PAI to HASS, I used the Swan connection but it was not stable .I did this cos I still needed to use insite gold app.
But then I tried the direct connection to IP150 with PAI, and it's definitely faster and 100% stable. Have had no ghost zones come up. More wierdly, insite gold app still works - sometimes just a bit slow.
Also would like to know if anyone can advise, how I customise the PAI custom bypass button. I want to bypass two specific zones at night when I arm perimeter, but not sure how to exactly do that.
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I’ve always changed the WIFI_RETRY options with Tasmoadmin so never used the commands but it’s bound to be one of these.
Code:WifiConfig 0 = disable Wi-Fi Manager and reboot (used with alternate AP) 2 = set Wi-Fi Manager as the current configuration tool and start Wi-Fi Manager (web server at 192.168.4.1) for 3 minutes, then reboot and try to connect Wi-Fi network 4 = disable Wi-Fi Manager but retry the other AP without rebooting 5 = disable Wi-Fi Manager and wait until that AP is available again without rebooting 6 = Wi-Fi parameters can only be entered via commands in the serial console 7 = set Wi-Fi Manager (web server at 192.168.4.1) as the current configuration tool restricted with the only option to reset settings. This setting is recommended for devices without an external control/reset button. No longer supported 1 = set SmartConfig (Android/iOS) as the current configuration tool, start SmartConfig for 3 minutes and reboot and try to connect to Wi-Fi 3 = set WPS as configuration tool, try WPS for 3 minutes and reboot and try to connect to Wi-Fi
Does anyone know of locally available wifi enabled LED GU10 downlights which work with Home Assistant? Only place I've seen is Futurelight, but they're sold out and no mention of HA.
Quite early in my smart home automation journey, mostly spurred on by the convenience of a new robot vacuum. Bought some Sonoff devices from Smartkit for pool and light switch automation, only to find that my switches only have a live wire to them, so not able to use that route for the lights. I've seen the T4 but I won't be able to deal with the incorrect shape compared with the old lights.
I bought 6 from them.![]()
But I've never seen stock of them. One hope is that you can flash them to Tasmota but no idea how.
The pool db box will have a live and neutral. Just be careful on the size of your pump and the device used to control it. A pump usually uses 5x the rated power when starting. You could use a contractor really to overcome thisDoes anyone know of locally available wifi enabled LED GU10 downlights which work with Home Assistant? Only place I've seen is Futurelight, but they're sold out and no mention of HA.
Quite early in my smart home automation journey, mostly spurred on by the convenience of a new robot vacuum. Bought some Sonoff devices from Smartkit for pool and light switch automation, only to find that my switches only have a live wire to them, so not able to use that route for the lights. I've seen the T4 but I won't be able to deal with the incorrect shape compared with the old lights.
That's right only 5 are mine and 30 are not.
How have you managed to connect straight to the ip150 I though only swan was available for the later FW versions?
I also cannot use the InSite gold app
So changed to local and deleted all the topics using mqtt explorer. Restarted PAI now only have my sensors.You need to check your alarm config via babyware, maybe those zones are listed somewhere. Really hope it's not the paradox guys linking two different alarm systems via their platform.
Also it beggars belief that, How paradox company, allows one to login to an alarm with just email and site ID, there is no MFA, etc. Someone could have access to my alarm using babyware or insite gold app, without my knowledge
Hence would rather just use PAI with direct and block access to swan as soon as sub expires.
According to PAI documentation, to use direct IP150 connection, add IP of the IP150 in config and leave swan site ID, email blank. Since I was having so much instability, I thought I would try it and it works in a way they say it shouldn't. My IP150 is on latest firmware as far as I know.
The pool db box will have a live and neutral. Just be careful on the size of your pump and the device used to control it. A pump usually uses 5x the rated power when starting. You could use a contractor really to overcome this
I want to know how to connect it to the energizerSonoff sv?
I think @alqassam was suggesting a contactor, not contractor, but I could be wrong.Thanks! Yes I'm planning on having a contractor round to fit it and check everything. I got a Sonoff POWR2 for this which is rated at 3500w and 16A.
I think @alqassam was suggesting a contactor, not contractor, but I could be wrong.
HahaThanks! Yes I'm planning on having a contractor round to fit it and check everything. I got a Sonoff POWR2 for this which is rated at 3500w and 16A.
Checked my pool pump and it's a tiny 0.75kw pump LOL.
I think a Shelly switch will be just fine on it.![]()
I use a shelly 1pm on a 0.75kw pump and it's fineChecked my pool pump and it's a tiny 0.75kw pump LOL.
I think a Shelly switch will be just fine on it.![]()
I want to know how to connect it to the energizer