Installing Sonoff Mini but no neutral in switch box.

BishopZA said:
Where did you get the Shelly 1L in SA? I can only find other Shelly products (which I'm very happy with).
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Woudl be careful with these specifically with the Load Shedding we have. There are numerous reports of the load capacitor blowing up (google Shelly 1L Explode).

If you can rather run neturals
 
BishopZA said:
Where did you get the Shelly 1L in SA? I can only find other Shelly products (which I'm very happy with).
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My boss buys it's online from Shelly, I have 2 that I'm not using, if you want to try them out.

I would be a bit weary with loadshedding and all though, I haven't had a Shelly 1L explode on me but I have heard quite a few stories.
 
Thanks for the heads-up.
Luckily I have a PV system with inverters and batteries, so loadshedding is a non-issue for me.

Whereabouts are you located @IchigoK ?

Is it just safer in general to have a Neutral line connected? Why is it not standard here in SA (like in the EU and US)?
 
Off topic, but has anyone hooked up a sonoff to measure their geyser water temperature?
 
BishopZA said:
Thanks for the heads-up.
Luckily I have a PV system with inverters and batteries, so loadshedding is a non-issue for me.

Whereabouts are you located @IchigoK ?

Is it just safer in general to have a Neutral line connected? Why is it not standard here in SA (like in the EU and US)?
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I think it depends on how new your house is. My house was built about 20 years ago and every light switch has got a neutral in the box, but I know older houses usually don't.
 
F1 Fan said:
Off topic, but has anyone hooked up a sonoff to measure their geyser water temperature?
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I've had a Geyserwise installed since 2019 that works quite well for this. I recently upgraded the PCB in the display with the WiFi/IoT model (cost about R600) as mentioned in this thread and now it integrates wonderfully into my Home Assistant using LocalTuya.
 
BishopZA said:
I've had a Geyserwise installed since 2019 that works quite well for this. I recently upgraded the PCB in the display with the WiFi/IoT model (cost about R600) as mentioned in this thread and now it integrates wonderfully into my Home Assistant using LocalTuya.
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Thanks! I don't have a geyserwise though, but will look into it
 
F1 Fan said:
Off topic, but has anyone hooked up a sonoff to measure their geyser water temperature?
Click to expand...
yes - Using the Sonoff THR16 with the temp probe slid intot the accessory sleev on the geyser. Works well for trends - not sure how it compares to real temperature but I've got it working quite well .

NB though the Sonoff isn't operating as a relay for the geyser - merely providing the interface for the temperature. Using Astute CBI for the geyser relay.
 
F1 Fan said:
Where did you buy the PCB from?
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I emailed them and organised everything via [email protected] and then had a courier pick it up from their offices in Cape Town (I'm in Somerset West).
Note that I only needed to upgrade my PCB because I had a very old model Geyserwise. AFAIK if you get the newer WiFi model it already has the Tuya integration and can be hooked up to HA, though you should probably just verify with them.
Overall I've been very happy with the Geyserwise, even before the integration with HA. It allows you to set different "target" temperatures for the four 6-hour slots of the day, so I generally have the midnight to 6am slot set lower than the others for example. It also allows you to turn the standby on and off (whether it will attempt to heat to the target temp) via multiple timers, which worked really well before I no longer need it since I started doing it via HA automations.
 
BishopZA said:
I emailed them and organised everything via [email protected] and then had a courier pick it up from their offices in Cape Town (I'm in Somerset West).
Note that I only needed to upgrade my PCB because I had a very old model Geyserwise. AFAIK if you get the newer WiFi model it already has the Tuya integration and can be hooked up to HA, though you should probably just verify with them.
Overall I've been very happy with the Geyserwise, even before the integration with HA. It allows you to set different "target" temperatures for the four 6-hour slots of the day, so I generally have the midnight to 6am slot set lower than the others for example. It also allows you to turn the standby on and off (whether it will attempt to heat to the target temp) via multiple timers, which worked really well before I no longer need it since I started doing it via HA automations.
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Thanks! I just popped them an email now.
 
mrb13676 said:
yes - Using the Sonoff THR16 with the temp probe slid intot the accessory sleev on the geyser. Works well for trends - not sure how it compares to real temperature but I've got it working quite well .

NB though the Sonoff isn't operating as a relay for the geyser - merely providing the interface for the temperature. Using Astute CBI for the geyser relay.
Click to expand...
Couple of questions;
1) Do you get consistent readings? Ever get blank readings/intermittent readings? (- - deg C)
2) Do you use an extension cable?

I got the TH20 elite and the DS18b20 with the RL560 5m extension and inserted into the geyser sleeve. But I’m getting intermittent temp readings. Sometimes it’s ok for an hour, sometimes it’s blank and comes back, sometimes temp goes blank and doesn’t get a reading until I restart .

I’ve checked the extension doesn’t run alongside power cables, also tried another probe to rule it out.

Suspecting the extension though. Will run some further tests without the extension but then it won’t reach my geyser..
 
fxit_man said:
Couple of questions;
1) Do you get consistent readings? Ever get blank readings/intermittent readings? (- - deg C)
2) Do you use an extension cable?

I got the TH20 elite and the DS18b20 with the RL560 5m extension and inserted into the geyser sleeve. But I’m getting intermittent temp readings. Sometimes it’s ok for an hour, sometimes it’s blank and comes back, sometimes temp goes blank and doesn’t get a reading until I restart .

I’ve checked the extension doesn’t run alongside power cables, also tried another probe to rule it out.

Suspecting the extension though. Will run some further tests without the extension but then it won’t reach my geyser..
Click to expand...

I had one in my pond. Was completely unreliable. Replaced the extension and been fine ever since. I had 2 extensions that were duds
 
FYI, you can use a sonoff wall switch rf that has no neutral. You need to install a capacitor at a bulb, only one in multi gang. And a sonoff bridge to communicate to those and bridge your wifi.

Installed over 8 in my house, work fine. Check geewiz.
 
Thor said:
If you are in the northern suburbs then I have a very affordable electrician for you that ran neutral wires to all my plugs in my apartment and he also installed the Sonoff Light Switches for me.

In essence sonoff = you need a neutral

You could use a shelly 1, that thing is small and goed behind your light switch, this allows you to use any face you like (but if you use mechanical it will be odd as off can be on and on can be off depending on the state) so I prefer to then go for a touch plate OR just ran a neutral as I did.
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You can get switches that work on eWeLink that don’t need neutrals. I have several. Work perfectly. Eachen switches.
 
Kosmik said:
FYI, you can use a sonoff wall switch rf that has no neutral. You need to install a capacitor at a bulb, only one in multi gang. And a sonoff bridge to communicate to those and bridge your wifi.

Installed over 8 in my house, work fine. Check geewiz.
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Eachen switches!
 
AstroTurf said:
For the light to have continuity through the switch one of the two wires connected to the switch will be live and the other will be neutral?

Just use a multi meter to see which is which.
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This is not true. Most South African lights switches don't have neutral. Live goes into the switch, and when switch is closed live leaves the switch to the light, neutral is then attached to the light to the DB.

As most people have said, depending on how many gangs you have, it's quite simple pulling a neutral. There will most likely be a box in the ceiling where the live heads to the switch and back and the neutral goes to the light. You can splice into that and send it down the conduit to the light switch.

NB turn off power at the DB board please.
 
Optimistically said:
You can get switches that work on eWeLink that don’t need neutrals. I have several. Work perfectly. Eachen switches.
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I know people who also use Eachen switches and love them. Just worth noting that in some cases, certain LED globes show a very low light glow even when off.
 
Seags said:
I know people who also use Eachen switches and love them. Just worth noting that in some cases, certain LED globes show a very low light glow even when off.
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The capacitor that they provide solves that problem if properly installed. The system works by letting a very small current though even when “off” to power the switch. This can cause LEDs to flicker, but not when the capacitor is in place - in my experience.
 
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