Is this normal?

I'm not sure, but if the broken automatic box stayed with the mechanic then its not such a bad deal.

A BMW manual gearbox is not expensive, I wouldn't pay more than R1500 for one and then theres flywheel, clutch, pedals etc but those are minor costs. It shouldn't take more than four hours work so labour is about R2000.

I don't see the problem except for the diff not being replaced.
 
That doesn't make sense.

Found this:
e36 Auto to Manual Conversion

Worth reading that thread, to see that it's not just a case of swapping boxes!

Well, what can I say... We've done it! - We've finally figured out how to properly reflash the ECU/DME to a manual.

If you simply reflash your ECU/DME to a part number from a manual, the ZCS coding values stored in the EWS will cause your ECU/DME to think the automatic box is still installed!

To fix this, you need to change the GM code stored in the EWS.

Due to the lack of solid documentation available for BMW Auto to Manual Programming, My friend and I have documented the process to make sure others don't have to go through the stress we did!

EDIT: Updated version of the document here:

https://docs.google.com/Doc?docid=0AaUN4...l4Zg&hl=en

If the link goes down, get hold of me and I will repost it as I probably won't be needing to check this thread any longer.




Did I notice a difference?... YES

-At first the car will not be that zippy at first, as it has to relearn its adaptation values.

-Once the car is warm, the idle speed will drop from the automatic 650-700RPM to 500-550RPM manual setting.

-When changing gears you will notice the revs drop a lot faster between gear changes (if you have a lightened flywheel you revs may still rise 200RPM~ at times.)

-I'm not 100% sure on this one as I've only just done it, but I'm pretty sure the car actually feels a bit peppier at the top-end also, mine actually seems to sound a bit deeper when applying revs!
 
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