My monitor is old, dim and not calibrated. The way to fix exposure problems is to watch your camera's LCD, and then take the shot again. The exposure meter is not magic. It still needs human intervention for complicated exposures.
There was a bit of cropping involved on that one.How do you get that close with the kit lens?
OK, I know its late, and I have just got home after 2 parties, so my eyes might not be working that well.
Are you shooting RAW? On my cameras the LCD seems to display the image with the current WB setting as well as the picture style being used - once you import the file though all that is gone and everything looks a bit flat.
Lately I've only been shooting RAW (due to all of you here). The WB and things seem ok when looking at the LCD. But focusing can seem good in the small screen, until its displayed full sized that I've realised that it's way off. Colour saturation also doesn't seem to show right on the camera LCD compared to a monitor (and here I mean my wifes canon and my Oly) Which I'd admit I thought was my monitor until I had it calibrated, and realised my printer was also way off. Had it serviced this week and after I got it back and was told the laser pickups were dirty, I cant believe the difference in my photo printsAre you shooting RAW? On my cameras the LCD seems to display the image with the current WB setting as well as the picture style being used - once you import the file though all that is gone and everything looks a bit flat.
I dont trust the LCD either - its fine for framing . . . and for displaying the histogram which actually is useful.
Even your calibrated monitor is only good when the light in the room you're using it in remains constant so you can imagine how far off your camera's LCD is bound to be looking at pics indoors, outdoors, bright light, cloudy days, etc.
The E620 is a current generation camera. The LCD should be accurate. (I have never seen the LCD - could be crap)
Can you show us an example.
Manual focus is the way to go with macro. With the small depth of field, you cannot allow the camera to decide what is the best point to focus on.
Its actually one of the best LCD's I've seen personally on a camera, I think Bwana has it right with the different lighting conditions
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kalvaer/3883801570/meta/ As to what I did.. Got lucky I think. The camera was pretty much on point and shoot mode
I'll have to keep one next time it happens as I usually delete them. More often than not its in low light conditions. As I have mentioned before though, Low light situations are a problem for the Oly's contrast AF, so you have to manual focus.
Turn it to sRGB.
You're not using the live view, by any chance, are you?
Turn what to sRGB? Surely not the camera as there's no point to it.
He's drunk the coolaid - how likely is it that he'd willingly go back to jpgs . . .It does not matter when you're shooting raw, but it would be better if it is set to sRGB. That way it's in the right colour space for when he shoots jpgs. Just makes sense to me.
Not with the new camera I aint!Nice shot Bwana. At worst you can do the reversed lens thing for now
He's drunk the coolaid - how likely is it that he'd willingly go back to jpgs . . .
Funny thing I've noticed since shooting RAW + JPG (backup onto 2nd card) is the noticeable difference in IQ between the two but that's for another discussion.
Not with the new camera I aint!
What're you using now?
1DMk3 - another problem is the 50mm f/1.8 I was using is suffering as of late and might not stand up to the strain. The new 50mm arrives next week but it is larger in diameter and probably wont fit.But why?
Besides, a little adventure never killed anyone.
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