[Personal Experiences] Hisense TV's

Hi guys, did quite a bit of reading on this thread prior to purchasing a 55" u8qf and from what I read it looked like firmware updates solved most of the issues the TV had with motion etc. I received my TV yesterday and it updated to firmware version K1224. I am not sure if this is the latest firmware but I want to see if what I'm experiencing with the TV is normal. I have a MiBox hooked up to the TV as well but the experience is the same through the native TV apps or the MiBox.There seems to be loads of motion judder and blurring on all of the DSTV sport channels I stream, with cricket being the worst. Watching cricket almost seems impossible as the motion handling is worse than the 7 year old Samsung it replaced. With motion smoothing turned on, the ball keeps disappearing and when switching off motion smoothing, the ball can be tracked a bit better but then there is just all around jerkiness and nothing is smooth. It also seems like frames are dropped as soon as a player runs. Same happens on all other sport channels. The weird thing is Netflix appears to be able to stream pretty well though, but there are still motion issues on some scenes, both slow and fast moving. I was hoping to see if anyone else has had a similar experience with their u8qf?
 
AstaKUN said:
Hi all.

Just got my U7QF 65"

Iam looking for good colour calibration settings for this TV as base starting point just to minimise the DSE a little and get nice deep blacks.

Help would be much appreciated.

Thanks
Click to expand...
I don't think any amount of fiddling will get rid of the DSE, as this differs a lot from panel to panel. Your best bet is to hope that you get one with minimal DSE to start off with.

With that being said, I use these settings that seem to work well:

Picture Mode: Standard

Picture Mode Settings-

Backlight-
Local Dimming: Medium
Backlight: 50
Brightness: 46
Contrast: 65
Colour Saturation: 50
Sharpness: 15
Adaptive Contrast: High
Ultra Smooth Motion: Off
Clear Motion: Off
Noise Reduction: Off
MPEG Noise Reduction: Off
Colour Temperature: Standard

Expert Settings-

Colour Gamut: Native
Colour Tuner: Standard
White Balance: Standard
Black Level: Auto
Gamma Adjustment: BT.1886
Gamma Calibration: Standard
Viewing Angle: Off
RGB Only Mode: Off
 
PhireSide said:
I don't think any amount of fiddling will get rid of the DSE, as this differs a lot from panel to panel. Your best bet is to hope that you get one with minimal DSE to start off with.

With that being said, I use these settings that seem to work well:

Picture Mode: Standard

Picture Mode Settings-

Backlight-
Local Dimming: Medium
Backlight: 50
Brightness: 46
Contrast: 65
Colour Saturation: 50
Sharpness: 15
Adaptive Contrast: High
Ultra Smooth Motion: Off
Clear Motion: Off
Noise Reduction: Off
MPEG Noise Reduction: Off
Colour Temperature: Standard

Expert Settings-

Colour Gamut: Native
Colour Tuner: Standard
White Balance: Standard
Black Level: Auto
Gamma Adjustment: BT.1886
Gamma Calibration: Standard
Viewing Angle: Off
RGB Only Mode: Off
Click to expand...
Thank you so much, will unbox this coming Saterday and try to take a picture of the "out of the box settings", then apply provided settings and upload both to give future buyers aswell as current owners an idea of how the display changed. Hope my camera will able to capture the difference.

Again thank you.
 
AstaKUN said:
Thank you so much, will unbox on this coming Saterdag and try to take a picture of the "out of the box settings", then apply provided settings and upload both to give future buyers aswell as current owners an idea of how the display changed. Hope my camera will able to campure the difference.

Again thank you.
Click to expand...
No problem.

I turned my backlight down a bit and put the local dimming on Energy saving, as these panels are quite thirsty when you pump up the brightness (160W+ in certain scenes). Our living room is also quite dark so there's no need to singe our retinas.

Other than that those are settings that worked for general movies and series. If you game, you can turn Game Mode on for that specific HDMI input which reduces lag and turns off all the post-processing. Games still look gorgeous, though.
 
PhireSide said:
No problem.

I turned my backlight down a bit and put the local dimming on Energy saving, as these panels are quite thirsty when you pump up the brightness (160W+ in certain scenes). Our living room is also quite dark so there's no need to singe our retinas.

Other than that those are settings that worked for general movies and series. If you game, you can turn Game Mode on for that specific HDMI input which reduces lag and turns off all the post-processing. Games still look gorgeous, though.
Click to expand...
Scary that 160W is considered thirsty these days, but I get you. My old 50" sipped electricity, but the 65" and the 58" are a little more thirsty.
 
Lupus said:
Scary that 160W is considered thirsty these days, but I get you. My old 50" sipped electricity, but the 65" and the 58" are a little more thirsty.
Click to expand...
I hear you. I know that our old 42" LCD used around 105w at full brightness, but being old CCFL tech it was to be expected. I was expecting the newer 65" with QLED to be at around the same or a bit better but it was surprisingly thirsty once you pumped up the brightness.

In comparison, my 24" 1080p Dell at home sits at around 10W most days. And the MBA M1 that I'm typing on now is sitting on 2.6W total consumption with 50% brightness - less than my Raspberry Pi! :D
 
PhireSide said:
I hear you. I know that our old 42" LCD used around 105w at full brightness, but being old CCFL tech it was to be expected. I was expecting the newer 65" with QLED to be at around the same or a bit better but it was surprisingly thirsty once you pumped up the brightness.

In comparison, my 24" 1080p Dell at home sits at around 10W most days. And the MBA M1 that I'm typing on now is sitting on 2.6W total consumption with 50% brightness - less than my Raspberry Pi! :D
Click to expand...
Yup, not sure why it's that thirsty, but I sit at around 30 to 40% brightness anyway as anything higher is silly. On my old CCFL I used to drop it down to 20 cause it was blinding past that.
 
Lupus said:
Yup, not sure why it's that thirsty, but I sit at around 30 to 40% brightness anyway as anything higher is silly. On my old CCFL I used to drop it down to 20 cause it was blinding past that.
Click to expand...
I also keep mine low, but I raise it a bit for gaming on the PS4. As you said, no sense in blasting your eyeballs with 800-odd nits for bragging rights and not much else
 
AstaKUN said:
Hi all.

Just got my U7QF 65"

Iam looking for good colour calibration settings for this TV as base starting point just to minimise the DSE a little and get nice deep blacks.

Help would be much appreciated.

Thanks
Click to expand...
Honestly I wouldn't bother trying to reduce it. It becomes so unnoticeable once the novelty of the new TV wears off and you start enjoying it instead of looking for flaws.
PhireSide said:
I also keep mine low, but I raise it a bit for gaming on the PS4. As you said, no sense in blasting your eyeballs with 800-odd nits for bragging rights and not much else
Click to expand...
I find myself gaming with the brighter settings (a mildly adjusted HDR Dynamic), but when watching TV I almost always keep it on HDR Night/Night Mode because it's easier on the eyes.
 
Anybody run their TV off a normal UPS? I want to add a small UPS just to protect against power outages and load shedding, not interested in running the TV when power is off. Last night the power went off 3 times for a few minutes, this is happening more frequently lately.

I have the 65U7QF, the Hisense website states:

Power Consumption (Nameplate)
280W

Power Consumption (Energy Rating Label)
195W
Click to expand...

Will this be ok to run off a standard 650VA/360W UPS?

Is this good enough for a TV?

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Waveform (Batt. Mode) Simulated Sinewave
Click to expand...
 
Hi, please can you send me a firmware update for my 55k3300uw hisense TV. Software version V00.01.00a.G0718
 
furpile said:
Anybody run their TV off a normal UPS? I want to add a small UPS just to protect against power outages and load shedding, not interested in running the TV when power is off. Last night the power went off 3 times for a few minutes, this is happening more frequently lately.

I have the 65U7QF, the Hisense website states:



Will this be ok to run off a standard 650VA/360W UPS?

Is this good enough for a TV?
Click to expand...
No I tried my 650w UPS on the TV and it will beep at you constantly.
 
Deefish said:
Hi guys, did quite a bit of reading on this thread prior to purchasing a 55" u8qf and from what I read it looked like firmware updates solved most of the issues the TV had with motion etc. I received my TV yesterday and it updated to firmware version K1224. I am not sure if this is the latest firmware but I want to see if what I'm experiencing with the TV is normal. I have a MiBox hooked up to the TV as well but the experience is the same through the native TV apps or the MiBox.There seems to be loads of motion judder and blurring on all of the DSTV sport channels I stream, with cricket being the worst. Watching cricket almost seems impossible as the motion handling is worse than the 7 year old Samsung it replaced. With motion smoothing turned on, the ball keeps disappearing and when switching off motion smoothing, the ball can be tracked a bit better but then there is just all around jerkiness and nothing is smooth. It also seems like frames are dropped as soon as a player runs. Same happens on all other sport channels. The weird thing is Netflix appears to be able to stream pretty well though, but there are still motion issues on some scenes, both slow and fast moving. I was hoping to see if anyone else has had a similar experience with their u8qf?
Click to expand...
I use standard on my motion smoothing settings. Did you come right?
 
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