Regular Tyre Flats - Root Cause??

DMNknight said:
Look at the edges of wear and tear around the fibres. That's not 2km driving to the nearest tyre shop kind of wear and tear.
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I agree, what i meant was the white fibres are where the rim ate the tyre, but you're right obviously more damaged on this side due to the wear from whatever it is eating that side before the blowout.


DMNknight said:
That's what it looks like to me. I'll be happy to be wrong cause I'll learn something :)
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Finally a man of culture, this is how i feel about it too, i love debating(arguing) but end result is learning, even if only to beat opponent.
 
Thats from driving it flat.Trust me, I just had to change mine after my wife did this.
 
To me it looks like some distance was driven on a very under inflated tyre.
 
Trust|Nobody said:
Tyre's are standard. Rims are not.
The rims were changed by the dealer. No other modifications at all.
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Please take some photo's of the inside of your wheel well between the wheel and the car.
 
Here's a pic with the wheel off. The picture was taken last night, the lighting wasn't so great.

IMG_20190326_191216.jpg

I don't think the tyre has been making contact with anything here.
Everything is covered in dust.
If the tyre was making contact, I would have seen a point free of dust.

I drove around with a new tyre, the new tyre doesn't show any sign of abrasion on the inner side. So this is proof that there is nothing touching the tyre.

I think the leak is coming from the rim.
 
1. Mobile device cameras should have a flash setting.
2. Most of them have a "torch" option. Works wonders when taking photos.
3. Check the tyre pressure with a pressure gauge every morning and night and more often in the daytime for a week. You do have your own gauge I presume? Much cheaper to have one of these even an el cheapo than a tyre replacement.
4. Surely the tyre fitment centre picked up rim damage? balancing would have been difficult if the rim was distorted.
5. What about when the wheel is back on and the jack removed? have a look then if there is a point where the tyre is close to something?
6. get someone to bounce the car up and down and then see what could be a problem. If the car bounces too easily, the shocks are finished.
7. Measure the distance from the centre of the wheel to the tyre damage and compare that with a measurement on the car to look for a source.
 
Another possibility. Do you know what the rim looks like on a standard model of your vehicle? Was there a fancy rim change at any stage? What are the dimensions of a standard rim and how do those dimensions compare with the rims on your car?

If the hub offset is changed too much from the value of a standard rim, the tyre WILL rub against something. the most likely place will be the top of the shock absorber. a positive offset to get a larger tyre to fit under the wheel arch will make the tyre run closer to the suspension, which is bad news, especially when cornering. Similarly, a loose suspension could cause the complete assembly to move around.
wheel_dimensions1.jpgWheel-Offset-copy.jpg
 
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I don't know why I didn't think of this before...

Take a big blob of prestick or clay and attach to the wheel where the scuffing is supposed to happen. About the size of a matchbox should be fine.
Move the wheel by hand slowly and see if the blob gets deformed or detached after a 360 degree rotation.

If the blob is fairly stuck on there, take the car for a drive. First counterclockwise around the block, check for marks or damage on the blob and then clockwise.

If at any point you see damage/scuffing, paint the top of the putty blob with some bright colored paint that won't dry too quickly. Repeat the process that caused the damage/scuffing. See where the paint is when you remove the wheel again.
 
Also, a picture of the wheel well itself. You're only showing the suspension. There could be body work coming into contact with the wheel.
 
The sticker on the door jamb for the factory recommended tyre pressures is for the following standard size tyre & rim combination: 155 R13 S - which typically means an '80' profile - as in 155/80 R 13 S

The tyre size you currently have on your vehicle is 175/70 R 13 82T

The combination of a wider, lower profile tyre with a non-standard rim, which could have a different hub offset to that of the original rims, may have changed the wheel/tyre & suspension geometry alignment sufficiently for it to rub against some part of the suspension and/or body panels under hard braking / cornering forces, when the shock strut is compressed more on that side during a turn.
 
There is all the technical stuff from an expert!
Fat tackies and flashy rims are bad news on some vehicles. In fact most of the time it is just plain and simply a "Very bad Idea"!
 
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