Regular Tyre Flats - Root Cause??

Ivan Leon said:
The sticker on the door jamb for the factory recommended tyre pressures is for the following standard size tyre & rim combination: 155 R13 S - which typically means an '80' profile - as in 155/80 R 13 S

The tyre size you currently have on your vehicle is 175/70 R 13 82T

The combination of a wider, lower profile tyre with a non-standard rim, which could have a different hub offset to that of the original rims, may have changed the wheel/tyre & suspension geometry alignment sufficiently for it to rub against some part of the suspension and/or body panels under hard braking / cornering forces, when the shock strut is compressed more on that side during a turn.
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I have always used this size tyre and rims for more than a decade.
I never had a problem until 3 years ago.

In fact, this is my first flats ever.
 
Looks like friction to me. Take the car to the local bush mechanic or tyre place.
 
Then, there is a problem with some other bushes on the suspension on that side. Do as @ DMNight has suggested and see what the results are. Either way don't wait until another tyre gets worn, find and fix the problem.
 
Generally any decent tyre fitment place will assist you with diagnosing the problem.
Not sure why you relying on some computer geeks in this forum.

Having said that I personally think the problem is that your wheel size is off and your tyres are stretching and you’ve overinflated causing frictional strain in that area
 
tRoN said:
Generally any decent tyre fitment place will assist you with diagnosing the problem.
Not sure why you relying on some computer geeks in this forum.

Having said that I personally think the problem is that your wheel size is off and your tyres are stretching and you’ve overinflated causing frictional strain in that area
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speaking for yourself are you?
 
tRoN said:
Generally any decent tyre fitment place will assist you with diagnosing the problem.
Not sure why you relying on some computer geeks in this forum.

Having said that I personally think the problem is that your wheel size is off and your tyres are stretching and you’ve overinflated causing frictional strain in that area
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My geek brain says pressure is applied equally in all directions therefore you won't get a lopsided scuffing on the tyre.
 
DMNknight said:
I don't know why I didn't think of this before...

Take a big blob of prestick or clay and attach to the wheel where the scuffing is supposed to happen. About the size of a matchbox should be fine.
Move the wheel by hand slowly and see if the blob gets deformed or detached after a 360 degree rotation.

If the blob is fairly stuck on there, take the car for a drive. First counterclockwise around the block, check for marks or damage on the blob and then clockwise.

If at any point you see damage/scuffing, paint the top of the putty blob with some bright colored paint that won't dry too quickly. Repeat the process that caused the damage/scuffing. See where the paint is when you remove the wheel again.
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I'll do this test on the weekend.
 
The tyre change means the tyres are 20mm wider than standard, 10 mm on each side of the centre line. Assuming the offset was not changed, that means the tyre is running 10 mm closer to the body of the car and the suspension, notably the top flange of the shock absorber. Now it depends on the clearance between the tyre and the flange with nothing else wrong. Check the other side for the space between the tyre and the shock absorber flange when the car is standing on the ground.. Compare it to the side where the tyre damage is occurring. It should be the same. If it is less, then something on the suspension has shifted or is worn sufficiently for the tyre to touch the shock flange on cornering, enough to wear the tyre.
The shock is either riding lower than it should, or it is shifted closer to the tyre. FIX the suspension!
 
tRoN said:
Weekend is almost up!!
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Damn, I hate procrastination but I have a huge interview on Wednesday. So that's got me heavily occupied.

I didn't even replace the flat tyre yet.
But I did get my pressure gauge :

IMG_20190331_140802_937.jpeg

I've even delayed the testing of my generator.
 
DMNknight said:
I don't know why I didn't think of this before...

Take a big blob of prestick or clay and attach to the wheel where the scuffing is supposed to happen. About the size of a matchbox should be fine.
Move the wheel by hand slowly and see if the blob gets deformed or detached after a 360 degree rotation.

If the blob is fairly stuck on there, take the car for a drive. First counterclockwise around the block, check for marks or damage on the blob and then clockwise.

If at any point you see damage/scuffing, paint the top of the putty blob with some bright colored paint that won't dry too quickly. Repeat the process that caused the damage/scuffing. See where the paint is when you remove the wheel again.
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I tried this test. Nothing. There's no contact at all with the tyre from any surface.

I've been using the new tyre for a week now and when I removed it to perform the test I could see that there was no abrasion on the inside of the tyre. I doubt that the tyre is making contact with the inside surface.

I think the rim is damaged. I still haven't replaced the flat tyre yet. I'll have the fitment centre inspect the rim for me when I replace the tyre today.
 
Geoff.D said:
1. The wrong tyre fitted to the vehicle.
2. Lowered suspension.
3. Vrot shocks
4. Underinflated tyre --- Rim damage, tyre going flat -- poor maintenance.
5. Overloaded vehicle.
6. Damage to the bottom of the vehicle.
7. Suspension damage or out of position.
8. Really bad driving over speed bumps --- you are supposed to slow down over speed bumps.
9. Oversize/wrong rims not suited for fitment to the vehicle
10. Maybe you should not own a vehicle or drive one? Can't possibly believe you did not hear a noise or feel an unusual vibration in all this time.

How on earth did you not look for the cause on the very first tyre change?
That is a very bad cut on the tyre.

/Edit: added the highlighted part as per @Colin62 's post thanks:D
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The highlighted, shocks could be at the top of the list. In my experience, I see a lot of people not slowing down at speed bumps which is a problem.
 
It still doesn't explain that consistent ,if a little irregular, inner tyre abrasion damage.
 
It would have to be a very badly buckled rim. OP is being very obtuse when answering questions we have raised. Only now in his last post has he indicated that he has yet to change the tyre on the rim with the badly worn tyre. So in all this time, he is using another rim. And we don't even know if that is the same rim type as the one with the damaged tyre! What is it about people who come to a forum for advice then play games like this?
 
DMNknight said:
It still doesn't explain that consistent ,if a little irregular, inner tyre abrasion damage.
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What if the abrasion is happening only under heavy loads or specific bumps.
That would make more sense since if it was constant rubbing it (the tyre) wouldn't have lasted a whole year.

@Trust|Nobody : You don't have a spacer. You need a spacer. I also went from 155 to 175 on my corolla and the guys at Tiger threw in some spacers.
 
c3n0byt3 said:
What if the abrasion is happening only under heavy loads or specific bumps.
That would make more sense since if it was constant rubbing it (the tyre) wouldn't have lasted a whole year.

@Trust|Nobody : You don't have a spacer. You need a spacer. I also went from 155 to 175 on my corolla and the guys at Tiger threw in some spacers.
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Spacers are required to correct for possible offset changes beyond the limits. But as we still have no clue about what rims are on the car and how these differ from OEM rims, we cant say if spacers are required.
 
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