replacement car advice

You describe a Duster's attributes in what you want. I love mine as go-anywhere car. It is the right car for you.
 
Duster is good as long as it’s out of warranty so you don’t have to deal with any Renault dealership and Renault SA. Absolute bunch of clowns, the lot of them. a story for another day.

Just do your normal checks and make sure that auto gearbox (EDC) is in good shape as the clutch packs are costly if worn out.
 
Tks XPD. Is there a specific test for EDC?
I would normally:
1. drive it and feel if all shifts up and down are smooth
2. Look at fluid colour on dipstick (if it has one)
3. Look for leaks
 
Baggins said:
Is this right forum for this question?

Looking for a car to meet some picky criteria and I thought it might be interesting to get some ideas.

Automatic (because I am old and lazy)
Comfortable over pot holes ie not low profile tyres
Raised ride height for easy access eg Merc C class is too low but B class is ok
Under R200,000
Easy to replace a single tyre ie not four wheel drive
Better than 6L per 100km on the highway ie probably a diesel
Spare wheel (space saver is ok)
Can fit a chair or small table in ie hatch or wagon
Easy to park ie less than 4.6 metres long
Relatively hassle free ie not a Land Rover
Age not important but under 150,000 kilometres
The less gadgets the better eg sunroof, TPMS, satnav, electric seats
Not too dull and slow

The only car that I think ticks all the boxes (except slow and dull!) is a Renault Duster.
Maybe a Volvo V40CC D3 with 16 inch wheels?
Maybe a Golf and I spend extra on big tyres and a 30mm lift?
Additional problem is I am in PE and automatics and wagons seem unpopular here.
Tks
Click to expand...
I would look at a diesel Mercedes A class.

Little bit higher than normal cars, but it isn't in minivan levels of easy access supremacy.
You can get about 4 pallets inside them with the seats folded down.
 
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konfab said:
I would look at a diesel Mercedes A class.

Little bit higher than normal cars, but it isn't in minivan levels of easy access supremacy.
You can get about 4 pallets inside them with the seats folded down.
Click to expand...
Tks Konfab.
Do you mean the W169 (2005 to 2012)?
Only seen 1 A180Cdi for sale in PE in the last 9 months and it sold before I saw it
 
Baggins said:
Tks Konfab.
Do you mean the W169 (2005 to 2012)?
Only seen 1 A180Cdi for sale in PE in the last 9 months and it sold before I saw it
Click to expand...
Yup.
My wife has one. It is a fantastic car.

Don't be afraid of buying across the country. I got my current car from Vanderbijlpark lol.
 
I did not know you can't change a single tyre on a 4WD car, very interesting.

Thanks OP, good to know.
 
So here is a contender:


The vehicle is auto, but before the CVT, so all good. In the photos it looks spic n span, like a one-owner car. Located in EL, so OP can take a country drive to see it. These vehicles are known to achieve 350,000kms plus, bulletproof motor, and one in this condition is a rarity considering its year model.

  • I would check the computerised service history using a different Honda dealer
  • I would also check for rust though, being coastal.

Here is the ReDriven report:

and the Redriven cheat sheet: https://redriven.com/cheat-sheets/used-honda-cr-v-review/
 
RonSwanson said:
So here is a contender:


The vehicle is auto, but before the CVT, so all good. In the photos it looks spic n span, like a one-owner car. Located in EL, so OP can take a country drive to see it. These vehicles are known to achieve 350,000kms plus, bulletproof motor, and one in this condition is a rarity considering its year model.

  • I would check the computerised service history using a different Honda dealer
  • I would also check for rust though, being coastal.

Here is the ReDriven report:

and the Redriven cheat sheet: https://redriven.com/cheat-sheets/used-honda-cr-v-review/
Click to expand...
cant go wrong if you get one thats got a good history... will probably end up a hand me down

i dont think that it will meet the OP's fuel economy requirements tho
 
ShloshMalosh said:
cant go wrong if you get one thats got a good history... will probably end up a hand me down

i dont think that it will meet the OP's fuel economy requirements tho
Click to expand...
Yep, it's 7.2 l/100km (mixed cycle). Still not that bad though, and if you factor in the price difference vs a Duster (which I also really like) then it's even Steven.
 
RonSwanson said:
Yep, it's 7.2 l/100km (mixed cycle). Still not that bad though, and if you factor in the price difference vs a Duster (which I also really like) then it's even Steven.
Click to expand...
I'd still go for the duster if the budget is available.

It will probably give the OP as long service as the Honda will if looked after well, but will be newer spec and tech, just as much space and practicality

it also wont have 20 year old car problems that might start creeping in with the CRV

just need to get a good one, and i reckon there would be more good dusters out there than good CRVs
 
Another vote for the (Feather) Duster. Okes that know me that is my go to recommendation.

One keyword stands out vs it's many rivals? Robustness, simple yeah but the r-word.
 
FiestaST said:
Another vote for the (Feather) Duster. Okes that know me that is my go to recommendation.

One keyword stands out vs it's many rivals? Robustness, simple yeah but the r-word.
Click to expand...
The engine is used by many models/vehicle brands and is bulletproof but what type of auto gearbox is used and how reliable are they?
 
FiestaST said:
Good Q about the auto.

I would personally advocate the Manual tranny, it’s still light af in traffic.
Click to expand...
note the auto only comes in the 2x4

the box is a ZF DCT (thankfully not a CVT) used in many models and has been proven to be reliable

there are nuances with DCTs as opposed to normal Torque converter autos... like the case of hunting or going up when it should go down in stop and go traffic

but these can be overcome by learning what the box needs in the respective scenarios
 
Rickster said:
I did not know you can't change a single tyre on a 4WD car, very interesting.

Thanks OP, good to know.
Click to expand...
Of course you can.

Best practice is to replace all 4 at the same time but paying 20k for 4 tyres when one tyre gets irreparably damaged is just daft.
 
FiestaST said:
Good Q about the auto.

I would personally advocate the Manual tranny, it’s still light af in traffic.
Click to expand...
Gtfo! No one has time for a manual on a little commuter shtbox, manual is for the Dodge charger weekend wagon. I’ll never willingly go back to a manual, auto is such a pleasure in traffic.
 
Crowley said:
Of course you can.

Best practice is to replace all 4 at the same time but paying 20k for 4 tyres when one tyre gets irreparably damaged is just daft.
Click to expand...
Some 4x4 systems such as in the Subarus do not do well when you only change one tire.
 
Tyre's and 4x4s:

You should regularly rotate all 4 or 5 tyre's so that they wear down evenly.

The problem the OP is referring to is when your 4 or 5 tyre's are fairly worn and you lose one, you'll buy a new Tyre which is not worn.

This IS a problem if you have a on board TPMS system like in the BMWs which doesn't actually read pressures but rather rotations.

Also, if two tyre's on one axle have vastly different wear, it may cause diff wind up.

It's not a 4x4 issue as the vehicles the OP is referring to and an afford are not 4x4, they are AWD.

These have a Haldex clutch type set up which is basically an open diff.

So, if the tyre's are very worn and you lose one, ideally you should replace both ON THAT AXLE.

But given the OPs budget and other requirements, I doubt an AWD vehicle is in his reach.
 
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