Tar Vs half brick Vs interlock paving

kolaval

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Any experience on tar Vs half brick Vs interlock paving?
The costs in the Facebook ads are R90, R150 and R250 respectively and I have a huge 280m² area to cover.
 
What is the use case? What function will the area serve?
 
Any experience on tar Vs half brick Vs interlock paving?
The costs in the Facebook ads are R90, R150 and R250 respectively and I have a huge 280m² area to cover.

Those prices surely can't be for material and labour.
You also need to take into account what you have currently.

Asphalt - As long as you don't have any turning points on your driveway and you seal it every five years it can last a long time, if you have to redo it in future only a thin layer is added on top.

Half Brick - Cheap bricks leaving big holes between bricks which need to filled with sand and cement, make sure the contractor just don't fill with sand and a bit of cement on top.

Interlock - Basically twice as thick as a normal cement paver used in heavy traffic areas.

You did not mention cement pavers which is another option.
 
Best solution is a exposed aggregate concrete driveway with rough surface.



Cobbles are high maintenance with dirt buildup and weeds.

And with tar you need the perfect application otherwise even more of a nightmare of maintenance.
 
Those prices surely can't be for material and labour.
Thats the rate on facebook marketplace it seems

You also need to take into account what you have currently.

grass and dirt

Asphalt - As long as you don't have any turning points on your driveway and you seal it every five years it can last a long time, if you have to redo it in future only a thin layer is added on top.

turning points?
You did not mention cement pavers which is another option.
I did not know about them


This is what I have.
The blue lines are needs some cover that can handle daily traffic from us living there.

1626239125138.png
 
Thats the rate on facebook marketplace it seems



grass and dirt



turning points?

I did not know about them


This is what I have.
The blue lines are needs some cover that can handle daily traffic from us living there.

View attachment 1107260

Turning point is where a car's wheels turn on the asphalt, it breaks it up. As long as you move while turning the wheel it's fine but standing still and turning your wheels is asphalt's weak point.

If you have the budget look at full clay pavers or if that's too expensive look at cement pavers, if still too expensive look at half-bricks and asphalt.

Another consideration is the slope and where all the water is going when it rains, also you don't want to take out to much ground as you need about 150 mm deep for the sub course and bricks. 42 cubes in your case. Also put some pipes for whatever you might add later on so you don't have to pick up paving later.
 
Tar is OK as long as you compact the soil properly, and plan for all the water runoff. More modern paving techniques and bricks make this unnecessary, if you don't seal with cement between the bricks, drainage will occur naturally. There are also special paving bricks that can be used that allow for waterflow into the soil.
 
Also am cursed with a pretty big drive way I need to get done. Only 100m2, best quote I got was R400 per square for the “cheapest” fish bone brick. Reading this I think I’m getting ripped off. That said I have called 3 pavers to quote only 1 has bothered to pitch.
 
Also am cursed with a pretty big drive way I need to get done. Only 100m2, best quote I got was R400 per square for the “cheapest” fish bone brick. Reading this I think I’m getting ripped off. That said I have called 3 pavers to quote only 1 has bothered to pitch.

Cobble half brick paving from ground preparation, good leveling, water directions, supply of all material, rubble removal and labor R150 per square meter. Hot smooth tar surfacing with ground preparation, G5 stone and 40mm thickness of tar R90 per square meter. Bevel/Interlocking paving it's R250 per square meter Tar resurfacing R80 per square meter

 
If done correctly I reckon all options would be suitable. Just to find a contractor//builder that knows what he doing is another story.
 
If done correctly I reckon all options would be suitable. Just to find a contractor//builder that knows what he doing is another story.
I had the guys quoted do a piece of half brick paving.

If you show them flaws they'll fix it but you need to be ever present
 
My house is a panhandle, I tarred it the first time around. That lasted 3 years before it started cracking.
The weeds followed the cracking and their roots which are super difficult to get out, caused more cracking.
I had it all replaced with normal paving, cost a fortune but its still perfect a few years later.
 
Don't go tar, firstly those prices they quote for tar is for a large area, it actually could work out more expensive for a small area, you also cannot use the driveway for days afterwards. Also it needs to be repaired every couple of years, rather pay for paving and it will last a long time.
 
Since the space is so large, smooth concrete is the way to go. Like what they have in the covered parking lots.
That way you can practice your donuts and handbrake turns without putting too much wear on your tyres.
 
Since the space is so large, smooth concrete is the way to go. Like what they have in the covered parking lots.
That way you can practice your donuts and handbrake turns without putting too much wear on your tyres.
lol Concrete is even more trickier to get right than the other applications.
 
Since the space is so large, smooth concrete is the way to go. Like what they have in the covered parking lots.
That way you can practice your donuts and handbrake turns without putting too much wear on your tyres.
Concrete will give him maybe 10 years.
Tar - 5 years
Concrete -10 years
Paving - 10+ years

I mean there are still paved roman roads going back centuries :-)
 
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