The Home Improvements Thread (2)

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Pool experts, need your thoughts please. My Zodiac EI Classic chlorinator stopped working. When the pool switches on, the lights go on briefly and then they all go out. But if I switch it off and on then again no lights even go on at all.

My thinking is that it could be the cell, because:
1) The flow light goes off because there is sufficient flow
2) The salt light goes off because there is sufficient salt

BUT
3) The 5th chlorine light which is also briefly on goes off which doesn't make sense to me - the lights usually go on based on what you set it, not how much chlorine is being made right? I suspect some of the LED's could be faulty though which doesn't really help.

I had the cell tested at a pool shop in Durbanville (the closest one to me in Bellville was pretty useless), and the guy is relatively confident that the cell is not healthy anymore but cannot guarantee it.

My fear is that I replace the cell (at almost R4k) and turns out there is an issue with the box. Someone advised me to move away from Zodiac and replace it with a local brand that is cheaper and better supported. Zodiac is imported from Australia I believe and the only place I can see where I can get the cell I need is on swemgat.com.

What is my best way forward? Overall it really feels that you can't win with a pool. Still convinced I have a small leak somewhere that I've not been able to pinpoint, AND the fibreglass lining I had done just a few years ago (at the cost of a new pool basically) needs to be redone as the company who did it messed up and then disappeared.
No advice sadly, but the best thing about a pool I've realised is that instead of throwing water into it - you could just use it as a pit to throw your money into. Same effect.
 
Honestly, I would spend the money and have a chat with an Engineer on that one.

You mayfind that the beam is load bearing to some degree, and the wall is the final support for it, but as you say a decent junction could be sufficient but its not something I would take a risk with.
Appreciate your comments. I actually phoned someone this morning who quoted me 2.5k to come out.
Then I remembered a buddy is is doing extensions on his house and asked him to pull a favour with the engineer. They're coming over on Thursday... maybe I can get away with only a case or two of beers ;)
 
Pool experts, need your thoughts please. My Zodiac EI Classic chlorinator stopped working. When the pool switches on, the lights go on briefly and then they all go out. But if I switch it off and on then again no lights even go on at all.

My thinking is that it could be the cell, because:
1) The flow light goes off because there is sufficient flow
2) The salt light goes off because there is sufficient salt

BUT
3) The 5th chlorine light which is also briefly on goes off which doesn't make sense to me - the lights usually go on based on what you set it, not how much chlorine is being made right? I suspect some of the LED's could be faulty though which doesn't really help.

I had the cell tested at a pool shop in Durbanville (the closest one to me in Bellville was pretty useless), and the guy is relatively confident that the cell is not healthy anymore but cannot guarantee it.

My fear is that I replace the cell (at almost R4k) and turns out there is an issue with the box. Someone advised me to move away from Zodiac and replace it with a local brand that is cheaper and better supported. Zodiac is imported from Australia I believe and the only place I can see where I can get the cell I need is on swemgat.com.

What is my best way forward? Overall it really feels that you can't win with a pool. Still convinced I have a small leak somewhere that I've not been able to pinpoint, AND the fibreglass lining I had done just a few years ago (at the cost of a new pool basically) needs to be redone as the company who did it messed up and then disappeared.

Good luck...I had a cell and 2 PC boards fail on my Zodiac chlorinator and decided to get rid of the chlorinator. Yes, it's a bit more PT checking levels once a week, but way cheaper even with the price of chlorine these days.

(Try Bertus at ProPool in Durbanville for best advice/solution)
 
Is there a way to fix this? The water flows backwards instead of going into the gutter and the wall leaks.

acfa2a7e9dd4e580f10708c876ced413.jpg
31d16193306656356c8c8a30344d9163.jpg
cd3b910b1b22397d092b76f0a4993e76.jpg
4c1ec6e6469c61229cac9643042e935a.jpg
 
Is there a way to fix this? The water flows backwards instead of going into the gutter and the wall leaks.

acfa2a7e9dd4e580f10708c876ced413.jpg
31d16193306656356c8c8a30344d9163.jpg
cd3b910b1b22397d092b76f0a4993e76.jpg
4c1ec6e6469c61229cac9643042e935a.jpg

Don't have a pic, but we had a similar issue, and the guy used bitumen foil (it was a roll and all you do is just stick it) from the edge of the zinc into the gutter. Two years later, still working like a dream.

Edit: The other solution someone had on this forum which was ingenious, was to put a line of silicon just under the edge of of the zinc (if you can get to it). Then when water rolls back, it hits the silicon bead and is into the gutter. His solution was for the wall.

In your case, I think the bitumen foil as I mentioned above probably is faster to apply.
 
Excuse the crap picture, any quick way of fixing this besides digging up the paving.

The actual thread has "unravelled".
ce366688cc82a6f12eabb83ad8b60153.jpg

So the pool guys are here for mine today. In my case, a part of that outer bit was molded into the pool. So they broke the marblelite to remove it and now are on their way to buy the replacement part and to reinstall the new one. For the broken marblelite, they said they have an underwater repair kit.

These chaps did a great job a few times previously so trust their workmanship
 
Don't have a pic, but we had a similar issue, and the guy used bitumen foil (it was a roll and all you do is just stick it) from the edge of the zinc into the gutter. Two years later, still working like a dream.

Edit: The other solution someone had on this forum which was ingenious, was to put a line of silicon just under the edge of of the zinc (if you can get to it). Then when water rolls back, it hits the silicon bead and is into the gutter. His solution was for the wall.

In your case, I think the bitumen foil as I mentioned above probably is faster to apply.
I will try the silicone option, should solve the problem.
 
So the pool guys are here for mine today. In my case, a part of that outer bit was molded into the pool. So they broke the marblelite to remove it and now are on their way to buy the replacement part and to reinstall the new one. For the broken marblelite, they said they have an underwater repair kit.

These chaps did a great job a few times previously so trust their workmanship
@xrapidx

What it looks like after they broke off the marblelite and removed it.

Another Thought:- they also replaced my pool light and the old one was Jammed in brittle , etc due to Chlorine:- they just broke it off in pieces. Perhaps it will be possible for you to wiggle it and maybe crack the outer shell which should then allow you to remove it (if the threads are indeed gone?) IMG_20211103_121421.jpg
 
@xrapidx

What it looks like after they broke off the marblelite and removed it.

Another Thought:- they also replaced my pool light and the old one was Jammed in brittle , etc due to Chlorine:- they just broke it off in pieces. Perhaps it will be possible for you to wiggle it and maybe crack the outer shell which should then allow you to remove it (if the threads are indeed gone?) View attachment 1180564

Looks similiar to mine - except mine is perpendicular... out of interest, what are they charging you?
 
Is there a way to fix this? The water flows backwards instead of going into the gutter and the wall leaks.

acfa2a7e9dd4e580f10708c876ced413.jpg
31d16193306656356c8c8a30344d9163.jpg
cd3b910b1b22397d092b76f0a4993e76.jpg
4c1ec6e6469c61229cac9643042e935a.jpg
I have exactly the same problem! I haven't fixed it yet, but was playing with the idea to bend the roof sheets a bit at the lip but I am not sure that would even solve the problem.
 
I have a stupid question on those gutters. To remove them temporarily (to easily add the silicone), can you just force them out and unclick them or do you need to unscrew the brackets?
 
I have a stupid question on those gutters. To remove them temporarily (to easily add the silicone), can you just force them out and unclick them or do you need to unscrew the brackets?
Unclick them with a flat nose screwdriver
 
I have a stupid question on those gutters. To remove them temporarily (to easily add the silicone), can you just force them out and unclick them or do you need to unscrew the brackets?
You can unclick them.. however, depending on age and sun damage, the gutters and brackets can be brittle and crack or break.. happened to me..

Assuming you can reach the screws, I would say safest and least effort is probably to remove the brackets..
 
If the water is running backwards at the lip then it is most likely the pitch is too shallow, you probably will or have noticed other issues like leaks on joints etc
 
I have a stupid question on those gutters. To remove them temporarily (to easily add the silicone), can you just force them out and unclick them or do you need to unscrew the brackets?
I took @TedLasso advice and put some silicone today on 3 spots. The screws were rusted so didn't want to take the risk or put that effort.
It was difficult to reach so I just put silicone on my finger and and applied it on the sheets.
It's not neat but its anyways out of sight so doesnt matter.
 
Good luck...I had a cell and 2 PC boards fail on my Zodiac chlorinator and decided to get rid of the chlorinator. Yes, it's a bit more PT checking levels once a week, but way cheaper even with the price of chlorine these days.

(Try Bertus at ProPool in Durbanville for best advice/solution)
It almost makes sense to not fix the chlorinator and rather use that money to buy a Poolsense which will help the additional monitoring. Been drooling after one of those for a long time.
 
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