The Home Improvements Thread (2)

Status
Not open for further replies.
Anyone have a guide on filling in a small, old gunite (or is it marbelite) pool? My Mom had hers done last weekend by a 'pro' doing part time work. As they progressed, it became evident that they'd under-estimated the job and then it emerged that it was their first. They eventually finished filling it. Concerns abound now. I'm clueless and will only lay eyes on it myself for the first time tomorrow. Any guidelines or input most highly appreciated. Thanks.
 
AlexFl said:
Anyone have a guide on filling in a small, old gunite (or is it marbelite) pool? My Mom had hers done last weekend by a 'pro' doing part time work. As they progressed, it became evident that they'd under-estimated the job and then it emerged that it was their first. They eventually finished filling it. Concerns abound now. I'm clueless and will only lay eyes on it myself for the first time tomorrow. Any guidelines or input most highly appreciated. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Did they break up the bottom of the pool before filling it?
 
Just hooked up my underfloor to Shelley PW. I can set a timer or timed settings to switch off and on. It gives me the power usage but not temp....

There's 2 Matt's a 2.4kw and 1.3kw so the Shelley won't let you do both it shuts off above 3.5kw, so running 1 mat for now

Have not used underfloor in the house as yet.
 
Need help please guys.

Our back door doesn't latch. Is there a simple solution because I'm not up to fillers/ putty/ heavy machinery?

A colleague suggested filing away 1mm of the opening. If that'll work what file should I use? Gardener will do it if I supervise.

Tks

rps20190706_093415_106.jpg
rps20190706_093332_532.jpg
 
Remove fitting, use a sander to take a mm away where needed, then with a chisel or something sharp let the fitting on the door frame goes deeper as needed.
 
upup said:
Remove fitting, use a sander to take a mm away where needed, then with a chisel or something sharp let the fitting on the door frame goes deeper as needed.
Click to expand...

That sounds good. Thanks @upup. Would never have thought to remove the fitting :ROFL: but now that you mention it, that's the logical way.
 
maumau said:
Need help please guys.

Our back door doesn't latch. Is there a simple solution because I'm not up to fillers/ putty/ heavy machinery?

A colleague suggested filing away 1mm of the opening. If that'll work what file should I use? Gardener will do it if I supervise.

Tks

View attachment 680459
View attachment 680461
Click to expand...
Take the fitting off and file the marked edge the direction of the arrow until the door latches..

f6a60947ef0b4ddff92440d3813866b1.jpg
 
that door jam peice looks too narrow for the latch, i would personally mark it, grind or file it down, while you are at it put it back with 100mmx6mm wall plugs into the brick
 
Steamy Tom said:
that door jam peice looks too narrow for the latch, i would personally mark it, grind or file it down, while you are at it put it back with 100mmx6mm wall plugs into the brick
Click to expand...

I was afraid somebody would reply like this:unsure::unsure:. Kidding, tks SteamyT :)

Is the door jam the part with holes in it because that's the part I'll remove and take to the hardware shop. They'll supply the correct file. It's screwed into wood so will the original screws be OK?

PS. You have excellent eyes. The other door has a much wider opening for the latch.
 
Last edited:
maumau said:
I was afraid somebody would reply like this:unsure::unsure:. Kidding, tks SteamyT :)

Is the door jam the part with holes in it because that's the part I'll remove and take to the hardware shop. They'll supply the correct file. It's screwed into wood so will the original screws be OK?

PS. You have excellent eyes. The other door has a much wider opening for the latch.
Click to expand...

haha, they will probably just recommend you a new strike plate at the hardware, but just ask them for a metal file, personally i would rather use a grinder.

To be technical the vertical wooden pillar is the door jamb actually, the metal thing the latch goes into is the strike plate.

The original screws will be fine i was just saying whilst it is off to add extra security.
 
Just remember if you move the strike plate you might not get a good place to screw it as the existing holes will be in the wrong place.

I would file down the opening in the strike plate rather.
 
rodga said:
Just remember if you move the strike plate you might not get a good place to screw it as the existing holes will be in the wrong place.

I would file down the opening in the strike plate rather.
Click to expand...

that I beleive is the consensus all along, anyway screw holes wont be an issue they are probably like 25mmx5mm screws they can even screw in likely without pilot holes, but what will be an issue is the locking mechanism, he said the door doesnt latch, not that it doesn't lock, that lock bolt looks like it probably just fits, so moving it will make that have the same issue he has with the latch now.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top
Sign up to the MyBroadband newsletter
X