The Home Improvements Thread (2)

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Mista_Mobsta said:
This could work but I doubt the fittings will be flush, nevermind fit correctly. Will see if there's a way to extend the pipes to allow for a pillar type fitting without it looking dodge
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do you have tiles as your backsplash?
 
Steamy Tom said:
do you have tiles as your backsplash?
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Yes but they are old AF and I would prefer to not touch the tiling until I can afford to redo the floor and wall tiles all at once. Also gets me wondering - what would a sparky charge to move two isolator switches (above my stove) to another location so I can install a bloody gas hob?
 
Mista_Mobsta said:
Yes but they are old AF and I would prefer to not touch the tiling until I can afford to redo the floor and wall tiles all at once. Also gets me wondering - what would a sparky charge to move two isolator switches (above my stove) to another location so I can install a bloody gas hob?
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the only way to make it look good will be to chase the pipes in the wall down below the cabinet. if you didnt do this it would look pretty bad and you would need to make holes in the counter

to move the isolators it will also be chasing
 
Hi guys, this lock to an upstairs storeroom was put in 3 years ago and has broken. The key turns but the lock (the piece showing at the bottom between the door and the wall) doesn't move. No resistance, nothing.

Any idea how to fix it please?
lock.jpg
 
maumau said:
Hi guys, this lock to an upstairs storeroom was put in 3 years ago and has broken. The key turns but the lock (the piece showing at the bottom between the door and the wall) doesn't move. No resistance, nothing.

Any idea how to fix it please?
View attachment 960708
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Replace it basically... it should be a pretty standard unit that you can take out and go to your nearest hardware store and get a like for like replacement that will just fit in the space.
 
maumau said:
Thanks, but how to get the old one out :)
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Take out the key, remove one handle (3 screws), remove the square spline connecting the handle to the other handle, open the door, the lock usually has two screws, unscrew, pull out old lock, insert new one, screw back in and reverse steps to reinstall handle.
 
RonSwanson said:
Take out the key, remove one handle (3 screws), remove the square spline connecting the handle to the other handle, open the door, the lock usually has two screws, unscrew, pull out old lock, insert new one, screw back in and reverse steps to reinstall handle.
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I think the door is "locked" hence the question how to remove if door cannot be unlocked due to it being broken.
 
Devo1 said:
I think the door is "locked" hence the question how to remove if door cannot be unlocked due to it being broken.
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Ahhh good point...

I could be a caveman and say that it looks as if there is enough space for an angle grinder blade to be used to cut the locking pin... but thats just me.
 
Devo1 said:
I think the door is "locked" hence the question how to remove if door cannot be unlocked due to it being broken.
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Ah!
Use "gentle persuasion": a cold chisel and a four pound hammer. To the lock's tongue of course.
 
ToxicBunny said:
Ahhh good point...

I could be a caveman and say that it looks as if there is enough space for an angle grinder blade to be used to cut the locking pin... but thats just me.
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Yep, if you have a steady hand.
 
RonSwanson said:
Ah!
Use "gentle persuasion": a cold chisel and a four pound hammer. To the lock's tongue of course.
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The other way, worth a try, is to turn the key into the locked position, and at the same time try to move the tongue using a small lever, whilst turning the key towards the unlock position.

Edit: or drill a small hole into the tongue to get a grip on it, and use it to move it back.
 
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