The Home Improvements Thread (2)

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Steamy Tom said:
Best would be if you could find the elbow or t joint below and get it off there and replace the section in its whole.
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Thanks, found the elbow. Will try to get it off. Couldn't find another piece of the same length only 1m so 100mm longer.

So will end up screwing in a 15mm connector and then check how the water pressure is going from 22mm to 15mm over that section.
 
Shella said:
Thanks, found the elbow. Will try to get it off. Couldn't find another piece of the same length only 1m so 100mm longer.

So will end up screwing in a 15mm connector and then check how the water pressure is going from 22mm to 15mm over that section.
Click to expand...

Pressure won't change, flow will ever so slightly but won't make that much of a difference.
 
I'm having a debate with my builder about how to install laminate/vinyl planks, in terms of which side clicks into which side.

My understanding is that this is the only way to install the laminate flooring, groove down on the floor and the next planks tongue goes into the groove. ie. The piece on the floor always has an exposed groove facing you like below.

1608303130143.png

Is there any truth to this being optional and it's perfectly normal to do it the other way around?
 
SAguy said:
I'm having a debate with my builder about how to install laminate/vinyl planks, in terms of which side clicks into which side.

My understanding is that this is the only way to install the laminate flooring, groove down on the floor and the next planks tongue goes into the groove. ie. The piece on the floor always has an exposed groove facing you like below.

View attachment 978290

Is there any truth to this being optional and it's perfectly normal to do it the other way around?
Click to expand...
The picture is the only way it's supposed to be done, to ensure that each piece of floor seats properly with the next, so that you have a single floor and no odd gaps between each plank..
 
Cut that galvanized old rubbish off, put on a polycop pipe and run it above ground around the house to the mains. Water pipes shouldn't be buried underground, under buildings etc, when they eventually leak its a mission to find the problem.
 
Shella said:
Hi folks
I have an old galvanised pipe that sprung a leak in the rusted section. We dug up the section to get to the leak to me met by alot of corrosion.

The leak is at the point where the corrosion starts.

What would be the best option to fix this?

To my mind another threaded galvanised pipe. Around 900mm to connect from the elbow in the ground.

Cut out the leaking sexton section and connect with copper.
Could I weld on or would I need a compression job of sorts.
7e6848b8057cfddbf0fc7b012bc92b2f.jpg
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An update,
Took out the old pipe and replaced with copper. No significant drop in flow or pressure.
71fdef174c83b6bd791e96506953ccc4.jpg
 
ricardo12 said:
Cut that galvanized old rubbish off, put on a polycop pipe and run it above ground around the house to the mains. Water pipes shouldn't be buried underground, under buildings etc, when they eventually leak its a mission to find the problem.
Click to expand...
While I am worried about further leaks given how corroded this section was, replacing all of it isn't a viable option from what I can see.
The meter and main valve is at the front of the yard, so that section would need to be underground. Then there are at 3 inlets into the house.
 
Shella said:
An update,
Took out the old pipe and replaced with copper. No significant drop in flow or pressure.
71fdef174c83b6bd791e96506953ccc4.jpg
Click to expand...

with all the corrosion inside the galvanised pipe the diamter in the copper is probably the same if not larger actually :p
 
So if I want to replace the carpet in the bedrooms, can you save the existing skirtings (looks to be nailed in) or just bite the bullet and put in new skirtings - which option is best?
 
RandomGeek said:
So if I want to replace the carpet in the bedrooms, can you save the existing skirtings (looks to be nailed in) or just bite the bullet and put in new skirtings - which option is best?
Click to expand...
Purely depends on how the carpets were installed.. in my one bedroom, I pulled up the carpet last week.. skirting was installed first, carpet hold down strips after that, so I can replace carpet without touching skirting..

However, if the carpet was installed to the wall and skirting done over that, you may need to pull out the skirting to pull up the carpet.. unless you cut the carpet against the skirting and install new carpet against the skirting..
 
WAslayer said:
Purely depends on how the carpets were installed.. in my one bedroom, I pulled up the carpet last week.. skirting was installed first, carpet hold down strips after that, so I can replace carpet without touching skirting..

However, if the carpet was installed to the wall and skirting done over that, you may need to pull out the skirting to pull up the carpet.. unless you cut the carpet against the skirting and install new carpet against the skirting..
Click to expand...
Existing carpet was done wall to wall and only then was the skirting installed. Leaving a bit of old carpet under the skirtings feels like cheating :laugh:
 
RandomGeek said:
But is it possible to remove and replace skirtings without damaging them?
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Depending on the type.. if it's old school hardwood ones, very possible, if you pull at the exact position where the nails are..

If they are pine, you will have to be very gentle with them..
 
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