That sounds like something a building contractor would tell me to do after he fkd up..
Are you in the industry perhaps?
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The Home Improvements Thread (2)
- Thread starter TedLasso
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Are you in the industry perhaps?
Yip.. I don't even feel like going to that side of the house right now. Just looking at that gate makes me naar.
Also the lock that was used is a slamlock, which is fine except for that there's no plate protecting the latch bolt so you can just push it back with a piece of whatever is laying around.
I'll try buy a different cylinder lock that requires multiple turns to actually lock the latch bolt.
TedLasso
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Reminds me of the 'engineering company' that we used to replace some doors and windows. Came 'recommended' by the builder from another job he worked at. We could have measured the existing windows to provide them for the new windows, but thought let the experts rather do it. So this guy comes with 3 okes who measure the necessary windows - 2 of them checked each one.
My mistake when he provided the quote was not to do a double check against my own measurements of the windows to be 100% sure. Gave them the job. After massive palava, they get on site (4 weeks after his promises - as he had cash flow issues)
Builder starts installing them - Every window was shorter than the opening but by then all the old wooden windows 'destroyed' in the removal process. Cue builder then needing to brick up the gaps so we didn't need new windows. Thankfully the double door was perfect.
The front door (at a cost of R6K) it was installed but two days later it hits me that it's messed up. I am wondering why there is a lip at the base - I need to step over the door to enter - which is not normal (or probably to standard).
Builder saw it, but installed (idiot didn't even stop to ask). Cue Engineering guy saying he'll sort it out - he needs time, cash is short - want's to take the door first before the replacement can be ordered (and I should live with an open hole in my house for 4 weeks).
Long story short - threatened to bankrupt him via lawyer - but he was already bankrupt and Covid happened - and that was that. I now need to buy a whole new door (when I can be bothered to do so) and this one actually needs to get dumped because can't use it anywhere.
Really builders are just damn irritating. I know I could do it if I really tried, but like everyone else, there is no time.
Thought: Is it better to rather use companies that do office refits, etc -? Surely they have to be more competent as they deal with corporates who won't take nonsense and possibly can sued for bad work if it gets to that?
My mistake when he provided the quote was not to do a double check against my own measurements of the windows to be 100% sure. Gave them the job. After massive palava, they get on site (4 weeks after his promises - as he had cash flow issues)
Builder starts installing them - Every window was shorter than the opening but by then all the old wooden windows 'destroyed' in the removal process. Cue builder then needing to brick up the gaps so we didn't need new windows. Thankfully the double door was perfect.
The front door (at a cost of R6K) it was installed but two days later it hits me that it's messed up. I am wondering why there is a lip at the base - I need to step over the door to enter - which is not normal (or probably to standard).
Builder saw it, but installed (idiot didn't even stop to ask). Cue Engineering guy saying he'll sort it out - he needs time, cash is short - want's to take the door first before the replacement can be ordered (and I should live with an open hole in my house for 4 weeks).
Long story short - threatened to bankrupt him via lawyer - but he was already bankrupt and Covid happened - and that was that. I now need to buy a whole new door (when I can be bothered to do so) and this one actually needs to get dumped because can't use it anywhere.
Really builders are just damn irritating. I know I could do it if I really tried, but like everyone else, there is no time.
Thought: Is it better to rather use companies that do office refits, etc -? Surely they have to be more competent as they deal with corporates who won't take nonsense and possibly can sued for bad work if it gets to that?
ElixirCoder
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The tilers I got for my current job are exactly that: they do corporate jobs, mostly malls and huge office complexes, etc. They don’t usually take on such ‘small’ jobs like mine but thanks to Covid they were forced to adapt a bit.
Anyway, fat story thin, these guys have been absolutely clinical and meticulous as well as very quick. There are several teams, and today two teams (12 people in total) arrived to get the job over the line. They just finished about 30 minutes ago, and will be back tomorrow for a final cleanup.
Honestly, this is the first experience that I’ve had with contractors where I’ve not been weighing up whether murder is worth the time I’d serve.
I’ve been getting some work done to renovate our bathrooms.
the work is actually fantastic, but man is the comms poor and the timelines are off by a factor of 3. hopefully all done by Tuesday, hopefully.
The plumbers that were subcontracted were great though, really took pride in what they did and went the extra mile (e.g replaced additional poly-carb that ran to the kitchen that wasn’t part of the job with PEX)
Had to have a lot of different people do drilling and needing to go through 10mm porcelain tiles (plumbers for sink, burglar bar people for the cottage pane bars, shower screens, towel rails, etc) and breaking a 750x1500 tile is not an option, so that part I did myself. Did the research, bought the correct size diamond core drills (5mm, 8mm, 12mm). Learnt a “skill” (patience, cooling, starting technique), and ended up with consistent perfect results.
the work is actually fantastic, but man is the comms poor and the timelines are off by a factor of 3. hopefully all done by Tuesday, hopefully.
The plumbers that were subcontracted were great though, really took pride in what they did and went the extra mile (e.g replaced additional poly-carb that ran to the kitchen that wasn’t part of the job with PEX)
Had to have a lot of different people do drilling and needing to go through 10mm porcelain tiles (plumbers for sink, burglar bar people for the cottage pane bars, shower screens, towel rails, etc) and breaking a 750x1500 tile is not an option, so that part I did myself. Did the research, bought the correct size diamond core drills (5mm, 8mm, 12mm). Learnt a “skill” (patience, cooling, starting technique), and ended up with consistent perfect results.
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Porcelain drilling is hectic... you right on the patience part.
Did you use a impact drill or hammer drill?
By technique, do you mean starting at 45 degrees and then straightening to 90? Any other tips? I'm going to need to do this again in a few weeks for my my MIL bathroom.
howardb
Expert Member
Can't use impact or hammer on porcelain afaik.
We used a normal drill with the diamond cutters, slow speed (used the speed 1 as a driver, not speed 2 for drill) and steady. 90 degrees, have enough water in your ring basin (prestik works well, top up as needed).
BTW, if your tiler pulls out an angle grinder to cut the porcelain tiles, get a new tiler! Told 2 of mine to get lost during bathroom renovations.
We also done some renovations recently and needed to drill into porcelain tiles. Got a tip from the guy that installed our shower screen, he started the hole with a drill bit they use to drill into glass then used diamond for the rest of it.
Worked like a charm when we had to hang all the bathroom fittings
Used standard drill on speed 1 (900rpm max on my cordless)
yes starting at 45 degrees.
starting at full speed off tile, and then kind of “plunging” in, knowing that it might kick, but will bite. The nice thing is that because the tiles are so hard, if the bit does skip a little at the start it won’t actually noticeably scratch them.
I would also drill for 5 seconds, dip the bit in a cup of water, and spray the hole.
After 16x5mm holes, the bit still looks good to go.
I do think this would be an unpleasant job with a corded or low duty cycle cordless, if you have a lot to do.
This is my setup for drilling into glass tiles and glazed porcelain tiles, works a charm. I start with the glass and tile drill bit, then move over to the red multicut bit once I'm through the tile. Neither uses hammer, just normal drilling.
I go slow and dip the bit in water as well as spray, end up with completely perfect holes. I even drilled right on the edge of a glass mosaic tile, I was certain it was going to chip but nope - came out perfectly.
Ok, I've been outsmarted by this doorstop - how is this thing supposed to be installed into tiled floor?
Front screw I'll of course use a different screw with a plug, but that little back threader bolt - should I just drill a hole and let it rest in the hole? Or maybe glue it into the floor?
Front screw I'll of course use a different screw with a plug, but that little back threader bolt - should I just drill a hole and let it rest in the hole? Or maybe glue it into the floor?
WAslayer
Honorary Master
You could use a metal expansion plug/rawlbolt..
though I would say you would be fine with drilling a hole the same size as the threaded rod and stuff some no more nails in there..
Yeah, I've got some extra strength no more nails that I can use.
Chemical anchor would be overkill, plus a waste of a chemical anchor nozzle
I am trying to figure out if I can install one of these without drilling the floor at all, just using a strong adhesive.
then again this should last forever, so maybe drilling into the floor isn’t the worst idea
either way I need one, not keen on a draft causing the handle to make a chip/crack
WAslayer
Honorary Master
You can get a wall mounted doorstop instead, or just an adhesive bumper that you can stick to the wall, at the same height as the door handle..
Don't think you are going to find an adhesive strong enough to do the job on a floor doorstop, if you have the wind blowing the door open.. might hold up to two or three slams, but will come loose..
Steamy Tom
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if it were me i would only use the screw, remove the threaded nod and let it have a little pivot play.
I can do that on the tiled floor yeah, I have one to do on vinyl floor - pivoting there would scratch the floor badly
Added a little light above the granny flat mirror... Think it's looking like a nice little hotel now. It has a led strip inside, I may have to replace it with a more humidity resistant strip at some point if the steam kills it, but I have a piece lying around.
That is possibly the cutest little basin I have ever seen xD
Off-The-Chart
Expert Member
@ToxicBunny sorry not sure if I asked this or you answered: that SIKA you used, what kind of finish did it have?
want to get something that gives the floor a rough'ish texture to walk on and especially when wet
ooooof that basin size
want to get something that gives the floor a rough'ish texture to walk on and especially when wet
ooooof that basin size
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