MDE
Expert Member
Yeah, I probably didn't explain myself all to well
just grab a post. No concrete needed. Use as the height for the tarp/net and then use rope and pegs to keep it in position. Kinda like setting up a tent for temp purpose-
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The Home Improvements Thread (2)
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just grab a post. No concrete needed. Use as the height for the tarp/net and then use rope and pegs to keep it in position. Kinda like setting up a tent for temp purposeWAslayer
Honorary Master
Tinuva
The Magician
I want to see what the Cape Town gusts will do to this setup. Could be an interesting experiment.Yeah, I probably didn't explain myself all to well
MDE
Expert Member
If the pegs are big enough shouldn't be a problem
Ok... finally got my gates up... f### it was a long wait to secure my property.
My next step is to pave the yard.
Can anyone tell me what layers I should have?
As in... level the ground, use building plastic to cover the area, then concrete with stone in it, then level the cement?
Is this the process?
Any tips on how to make it not crack over time? My cars will be standing on it.
My next step is to pave the yard.
Can anyone tell me what layers I should have?
As in... level the ground, use building plastic to cover the area, then concrete with stone in it, then level the cement?
Is this the process?
Any tips on how to make it not crack over time? My cars will be standing on it.
You shouldn't put plastic under paving. Weeds don't grow from underneath the paving, the come from seeds settling in the gaps between bricks.
Plastic prevents any water from draining down through the brick, slowing down the drying of the brick/pavers in wet conditions. Plastic also means the pavers/bricks aren't getting firmly bedded into the substrate, so more chance of movement which equals more cracks.
I actually want solid concrete and not bricks. At the moment, I have bricks and hate the maintenance around the weeds.
WAslayer
Honorary Master
Paving the yard and throwing down a slab of concrete are two different things..
My limited knowledge says that you are going to want to compact the yard extremely well, where you are pouring the concrete.. lay down some wire mesh about 50mm off the ground and then do about a 150mm thick concrete pour with stone aggregate.. that should provide sufficient strength..
the compaction is critical here.. any areas where the ground gives way under the slab, is where cracking will start..
Also make sure that you have adequate drainage away from the slab and that you don't have water finding its way underneath, undermining the slab..
This worked for me. The rains in capetown today helped me to test it. I only did a part of the roof, will do the rest when its dry.
The second pic is where it's still leaking and needs silicone.
What's the best way to fix a busted wood laminate wardrobe door.
My idea was to remove the excess material and put a bolt and nut right through. But the result would be ugly.
Then I thought I can drill a larger hole on the otherside and tighten the bolt enough so that its flush with the surface and then cover it with some prestik.
My idea was to remove the excess material and put a bolt and nut right through. But the result would be ugly.
Then I thought I can drill a larger hole on the otherside and tighten the bolt enough so that its flush with the surface and then cover it with some prestik.
WAslayer
Honorary Master
Laminate..? Looks like chipboard to me..What's the best way to fix a busted wood laminate wardrobe door.
My idea was to remove the excess material and put a bolt and nut right through. But the result would be ugly.
Then I thought I can drill a larger hole on the otherside and tighten the bolt enough so that its flush with the surface and then cover it with some prestik.
Nicest result is going to be to remove the broken out bits and then use some appropriately sized dowel rod glued into the resulting holes, to replace the broken out bits of wood..
Drill new holes for the hinge screws..
Sorry my bad, its chipboard.
Steamy Tom
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Off-The-Chart
Expert Member
would a pressure washer help in getting rid of some old paint flakes from a pre-cast wall?
really don't want to go with a paint scraper over this uneven surface
really don't want to go with a paint scraper over this uneven surface
WAslayer
Honorary Master
Grinder with a wire brush wheel attached..would a pressure washer help in getting rid of some old paint flakes from a pre-cast wall?
really don't want to go with a paint scraper over this uneven surface
This is supposed to be done on installation but hardly ever gets done. There is actually a specific tool, but I can't find a pic at the moment, it looks like a big set of tongs.This worked for me. The rains in capetown today helped me to test it. I only did a part of the roof, will do the rest when its dry.
The second pic is where it's still leaking and needs silicone.
Depends on how strong your pw is as well as if you have the rotating head attachment. That's if it's a Karcher.would a pressure washer help in getting rid of some old paint flakes from a pre-cast wall?
really don't want to go with a paint scraper over this uneven surface
Just sorted out a wall of mine that was stippled.would a pressure washer help in getting rid of some old paint flakes from a pre-cast wall?
really don't want to go with a paint scraper over this uneven surface
Pressure washer (big one), paint scrapers in between, more pressure washer and then more paint scrapers.
Then a layer of bonding liquid. Then primer. Then paint
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