The Home Improvements Thread (2)

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Off-The-Chart said:
French drain query

if I drill small enough holes into the pipe, would I still need to use a fabric underneath the gravel so prevent clogging, or should it be fine as long as the gravel is much larger than the holes?

and is this the right fabric: https://www.builders.co.za/Garden-&-Pets/Plant-&-Lawn-Care/Accessories/Topline-Weed-Gard-(1-x-10m)/p/000000000000170461
Click to expand...

I would not do it that way. Use stones instead of gravel, forget about the fabric, big holes but smaller than the stones, normal pipe instead of perforated pipe.

French drain
 
Off-The-Chart said:
French drain query

if I drill small enough holes into the pipe, would I still need to use a fabric underneath the gravel so prevent clogging, or should it be fine as long as the gravel is much larger than the holes?

and is this the right fabric: https://www.builders.co.za/Garden-&-Pets/Plant-&-Lawn-Care/Accessories/Topline-Weed-Gard-(1-x-10m)/p/000000000000170461
Click to expand...

Honestly I wouldn't do that in the slightest... Instead of jerry rigging a solution, do it properly with the right pipe the first time.

I would look at this instead : https://kaytech.co.za/portfolio/kaypipe-geopipe/
 
ToxicBunny said:
Honestly I wouldn't do that in the slightest... Instead of jerry rigging a solution, do it properly with the right pipe the first time.

I would look at this instead : https://kaytech.co.za/portfolio/kaypipe-geopipe/
Click to expand...

1 of these days you will actually link to something for 'residential' use that I can find at Builders or Chamberlains :P :D

jerry rig? all the videos I watch on French drains does it in some form like what I described, except yes, they usually choose some kind of perforated instead of normal PVC with holes drilled

if it was a perfect world and I could do it that way, sure ofc I would

@krieg maybe gravel/crushed gravel not the right term, but usually when I have asked for that, what I have gotten is those light gray/dark gray stones you see on some peoples sidewalks or in gardens... think they are like 19mm+ in size
 
Off-The-Chart said:
1 of these days you will actually link to something for 'residential' use that I can find at Builders or Chamberlains :p :D

jerry rig? all the videos I watch on French drains does it in some form like what I described, except yes, they usually choose some kind of perforated instead of normal PVC with holes drilled

if it was a perfect world and I could do it that way, sure ofc I would

@krieg maybe gravel/crushed gravel not the right term, but usually when I have asked for that, what I have gotten is those light gray/dark gray stones you see on some peoples sidewalks or in gardens... think they are like 19mm+ in size
Click to expand...

Dude... You can literally phone Kaytek and buy a length of pipe from them (6m, so same length as Builders/Chamberlains)... they aren't only for industrial scale customers :)

I did my soak away pits with the Kaytek Infiltrators. Phoned them, ordered 4 and went to collect with my bakkie and installed myself.
I also did a french drain behind my kitchen wall with the GeoPipe and a length of the fabric which I bought from them as well.
 
morning all, any recommendations for waterproofing a slate roof small gaps appear in my roof.Roof is fragile most likely damage over the years and Not maintaining it from previous owners.id like to save money first before new tiled roof.
Builders recommends Megabond as this is the only product that can be used on slate.

anybody got other ideas before I call roof experts or insurance later.
 

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Knocked out some internal walls to re-tile into open plan space. Old kitchen is higher than the old diningroom.
What are my easiest/cheapest options?

1637518618690.png
 
Had a carpenter chip out too much of the door frame when putting in a new door. Is there any filler that can be used. The bracket in the frame is now loose.
Wood filler seems to be too weak.
 
adrcl said:
Had a carpenter chip out too much of the door frame when putting in a new door. Is there any filler that can be used. The bracket in the frame is now loose.
Wood filler seems to be too weak.
Click to expand...
Maybe try take a pic or two for us to see
 
Just discovered the company that did my bathroom didn't prime the ceiling boards they replaced, I discovered this when I decided to scrape off some bubbling paint in a seperate section to redo - and the section they replaced just came right off (about 1mx1m).

I'm going to use a quick skimming plaster to level the painted section, and section that had no primer - and then paint the entire ceiling with Damp Seal to try and create a barrier between the ceiling and the bathroom - before finishing off with standard pva ceiling paint (I don't want to use bathroom ceiling paint is its quite glossy and hows imperfections easily).

Just wondering on opinions, or alternative suggestions to damp seal? I don't want the paint to start bubbling again when the moisure works it way through. (the bathroom is small and gets quite wet with showers - the water runs down the walls, with an extractor and windows open)
 
Steamy Tom said:
a very tiny transition ramp. Otherwise screed the lower floor to match the higher
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Just on this, the lower section is down by the 20mm or so seen on the picture, but this is WITH the tiles still in place on the lower section. So after removing them it'll be down a further 5-10mm. Seeing as the tiles in this section is very solid, am I asking for trouble if I were to suggest using a tile on tile adhesive and just tiling on top of them?
 
abudabi said:
Just on this, the lower section is down by the 20mm or so seen on the picture, but this is WITH the tiles still in place on the lower section. So after removing them it'll be down a further 5-10mm. Seeing as the tiles in this section is very solid, am I asking for trouble if I were to suggest using a tile on tile adhesive and just tiling on top of them?
Click to expand...

personally i wouldnt, remove them and self levelling screed rather
 
abudabi said:
Just on this, the lower section is down by the 20mm or so seen on the picture, but this is WITH the tiles still in place on the lower section. So after removing them it'll be down a further 5-10mm. Seeing as the tiles in this section is very solid, am I asking for trouble if I were to suggest using a tile on tile adhesive and just tiling on top of them?
Click to expand...
Tiling on top of tiles is perfectly fine
 
ElixirCoder said:
Why?

The commercial tilers do it all the time
Click to expand...

It isn't the preferable choice, labour is cheap enough to deal with it properly, you have no idea about how well the tiles will adhere without a self inspection and the existing tiles bond etc. It is far more likely for the new tiles to fail over old tiles than directly on the slab itself.
 
Steamy Tom said:
It isn't the preferable choice, labour is cheap enough to deal with it properly, you have no idea about how well the tiles will adhere without a self inspection and the existing tiles bond etc. It is far more likely for the new tiles to fail over old tiles than directly on the slab itself.
Click to expand...
I'd also recommend removing old tiles first, unless for some reason it's not possible.

Like my old useless builder who decided to screed over a painted wall instead of using the cup wheel I gave him to scarify the walls first. 2 weeks later the screed started falling off the wall. The genius probably thought bonding liquid was good enough... but bonding to what, the loose paint?!
 
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