The Home Improvements Thread (2)

[Sideshow Bob]

I actually need 2x 1.5m - and I think that'll fit in the car, so I'm just gonna cut it in the parking lot

Don't they have in-house cutting services? I think builders warehouse I know charges R10 per cut or something like that.

 

[xrapidx]

Don't they have in-house cutting services? I think builders warehouse I know charges R10 per cut or something like that.

Builders here in Blouberg are useless, the machine is always broken - and this weekend they told me you don't get the size I want. (you do)

Waiting for a quote from Timber City in Montague Gardens. If they're going to charge me R200 to cut a board in half I'll do it in the parking lot

 

[Sideshow Bob]

So basically sand and cement mix.

So I went to builders again. Plaster mix is a bit coarse compared to plaster sand and as per them, plaster sand is what is needed. I really thought plaster mix was sand + cement earlier but will check with Mica as builders guys can be wonky at times.

 

[SAguy]

I've used Wago connectors quite a bit for smaller things like lights and smart stuff, but not as a replacement for connection blocks for power supply to plugs.

Looking at these Wago 221-415 it looks like they are rated for 32A.
I've got some junction boxes in my roof used to supply various plugs throughout the house that are in a terrible state, so I'd like to clean up a bit.

Some of the connections in these junction boxes don't even have connection blocks, just twisted and taped.

Anyone think it would be a bad idea to use these connectors instead?

 

[PhireSide]

I've used Wago connectors quite a bit for smaller things like lights and smart stuff, but not as a replacement for connection blocks for power supply to plugs.

Looking at these Wago 221-415 it looks like they are rated for 32A.
I've got some junction boxes in my roof used to supply various plugs throughout the house that are in a terrible state, so I'd like to clean up a bit.

Some of the connections in these junction boxes don't even have connection blocks, just twisted and taped.

Anyone think it would be a bad idea to use these connectors instead?

I'd do it. Been running these behind some switches (220v) on a terrarium for a few years with no issues

 

[Düber]

I've used Wago connectors quite a bit for smaller things like lights and smart stuff, but not as a replacement for connection blocks for power supply to plugs.

Looking at these Wago 221-415 it looks like they are rated for 32A.
I've got some junction boxes in my roof used to supply various plugs throughout the house that are in a terrible state, so I'd like to clean up a bit.

Some of the connections in these junction boxes don't even have connection blocks, just twisted and taped.

Anyone think it would be a bad idea to use these connectors instead?

Not at all, I have been using them for almost everything and they have worked well. Like you say they are rated at 32A and that is with a margin for safety included.

 

[SAguy]

I'd do it. Been running these behind some switches (220v) on a terrarium for a few years with no issues

Not at all, I have been using them for almost everything and they have worked well. Like you say they are rated at 32A and that is with a margin for safety included.

Yeah, I'd suspect that they're safer than the electricians who shove 5 wires into a small connection block - hoping that the screw bites down on all of them.

 

[Düber]

Yeah, I'd suspect that they're safer than the electricians who shove 5 wires into a small connection block - hoping that the screw bites down on all of them.

Yes much safer and neater too.

 

[AchmatK]

So I need to enclose a section of my carport and going to do it with nutec. The size is roughly 3m x 6m. Reason for going nutec is I want it to be easily removable if I decide to take it down.

The lines in blue is where it will be enclosed. It will have a large sliding door on the front and only one window on the right side. There's a door on the far end leading into the room on the left and I'll get electricity from this room. There'll be a 1.5m gap from the boundary wall to the nutec wall.

I don't want to lift the bricks and was thinking of just putting in some sand, compacting it and then laying down some paving squares for the floor. I will need to angle the floor away from the house towards a gully on the right. I'll be using the space as my honey extraction room so need to be able to hose it down when cleaning the area.


Will this work or should I look at other options.

 

[DrX]

So I'm renovating a bathroom and have some questions about waterproofing.

What's the process for waterproofing a shower floor? I've read some threads and saw mention of plastic around the shower drain as well as some mentioning bonding mix.

Anyhow have a solid recommendation on process and materials for waterproofing the shower floor?

Have a contractor working on it but want to make sure he is doing what he is supposed to as it's an upstairs shower.

 

[Bikerbob]

So I'm renovating a bathroom and have some questions about waterproofing.

What's the process for waterproofing a shower floor? I've read some threads and saw mention of plastic around the shower drain as well as some mentioning bonding mix.

Anyhow have a solid recommendation on process and materials for waterproofing the shower floor?

Have a contractor working on it but want to make sure he is doing what he is supposed to as it's an upstairs shower.

Sika cemflex. Do walls up to ceiling and floor.

 

[chickenbeef]

Sika cemflex. Do walls up to ceiling and floor.

This, and follow the instructions on the datasheet. It needs to cure properly before tiling, contractors take shortcuts and don't let it cure fully so they can finish the job faster and then you have issues later on.

 

[krieg]

So I need to enclose a section of my carport and going to do it with nutec. The size is roughly 3m x 6m. Reason for going nutec is I want it to be easily removable if I decide to take it down.

The lines in blue is where it will be enclosed. It will have a large sliding door on the front and only one window on the right side. There's a door on the far end leading into the room on the left and I'll get electricity from this room. There'll be a 1.5m gap from the boundary wall to the nutec wall.

I don't want to lift the bricks and was thinking of just putting in some sand, compacting it and then laying down some paving squares for the floor. I will need to angle the floor away from the house towards a gully on the right. I'll be using the space as my honey extraction room so need to be able to hose it down when cleaning the area.


Will this work or should I look at other options.
View attachment 1305256

Actually much easier to just lift the bricks. All the compacted sand will just wash away eventually imo and some water will seep and have no where to go leading to damp/mold.

 

[deesef]

So I'm renovating a bathroom and have some questions about waterproofing.

What's the process for waterproofing a shower floor? I've read some threads and saw mention of plastic around the shower drain as well as some mentioning bonding mix.

Anyhow have a solid recommendation on process and materials for waterproofing the shower floor?

Have a contractor working on it but want to make sure he is doing what he is supposed to as it's an upstairs shower.

I tiled my swimming pool in 2017. It still looks just as good now as it did then. I followed a guideline on the TAL website:

1. Ensure that the base is clean and properly cured.

2. Mix TAL key coat with 42 mpa cement (no sand, no water), to make a slurry. Paint this onto the surface with a block brush, ensuring full coverage. Do not mix too much, as the working time is only about 15 minutes.
Allow to dry for at least 4 hours.

3. Use TAL Goldstar 12 tile cement, mixed with TAL bonding liquid (no water!) to bed the tiles.

4. I used TAL acid-resist grout, due to the chemicals in a pool. I'm sure that in the shower, any grout can be used. Once again, use only bonding liquid to mix. Don't wait too long to clean off the tiles after grouting, as this sets hard and grips like you can't believe.

If it works for a pool, I'm sure that a shower environment would last using this process.

 

[piranha786]

I want to build a floating Vanity in the bathroom. What board is best. I saw a new board Compact 88, but it seems very expensive

 

[WAslayer]

I want to build a floating Vanity in the bathroom. What board is best. I saw a new board Compact 88, but it seems very expensive

Avoid chipboard.. I would go Baltic birch plywood.. any good finish would make it water resistant if well maintained..

 

[AchmatK]

Actually much easier to just lift the bricks. All the compacted sand will just wash away eventually imo and some water will seep and have no where to go leading to damp/mold.

Decided to go with option 3.

This used to be a garage before I purchased the property which was converted to a room with a double door and by the time I moved in the door was replaced with a window.

The lintel for the garage door is still there so I'll just put a double door in this room and use it as my honey extraction room.

 

[DrX]

I tiled my swimming pool in 2017. It still looks just as good now as it did then. I followed a guideline on the TAL website:

1. Ensure that the base is clean and properly cured.

2. Mix TAL key coat with 42 mpa cement (no sand, no water), to make a slurry. Paint this onto the surface with a block brush, ensuring full coverage. Do not mix too much, as the working time is only about 15 minutes.
Allow to dry for at least 4 hours.

3. Use TAL Goldstar 12 tile cement, mixed with TAL bonding liquid (no water!) to bed the tiles.

4. I used TAL acid-resist grout, due to the chemicals in a pool. I'm sure that in the shower, any grout can be used. Once again, use only bonding liquid to mix. Don't wait too long to clean off the tiles after grouting, as this sets hard and grips like you can't believe.

If it works for a pool, I'm sure that a shower environment would last using this process.

Wow that is impressive!

Thank you, really appreciate the details on the process and materials, definitely helps a lot.

 

[TedLasso]

I tiled my swimming pool in 2017. It still looks just as good now as it did then. I followed a guideline on the TAL website:

1. Ensure that the base is clean and properly cured.

2. Mix TAL key coat with 42 mpa cement (no sand, no water), to make a slurry. Paint this onto the surface with a block brush, ensuring full coverage. Do not mix too much, as the working time is only about 15 minutes.
Allow to dry for at least 4 hours.

3. Use TAL Goldstar 12 tile cement, mixed with TAL bonding liquid (no water!) to bed the tiles.

4. I used TAL acid-resist grout, due to the chemicals in a pool. I'm sure that in the shower, any grout can be used. Once again, use only bonding liquid to mix. Don't wait too long to clean off the tiles after grouting, as this sets hard and grips like you can't believe.

If it works for a pool, I'm sure that a shower environment would last using this process.

Still trying to process your first picture. Was your pool under cover or something?

Also how much did it cost then to do that with tiles? Asking to figure out if it would be cheaper than to re-marbelite a pool. Size of pool would help too.

How does the pool cleaner deal with tiles and do you get more algae?

Thx

 

[krieg]

Decided to go with option 3.

This used to be a garage before I purchased the property which was converted to a room with a double door and by the time I moved in the door was replaced with a window.

The lintel for the garage door is still there so I'll just put a double door in this room and use it as my honey extraction room.

View attachment 1305708

Much better, honey room needs to be sealed everywhere anyway.