That won't be a high energy consumer so should not be a problem. I would have thought it has some type of coin battery inside to take care of the memory during power loss events.
I thought so too, might be worth popping open to see. Thanks
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That won't be a high energy consumer so should not be a problem. I would have thought it has some type of coin battery inside to take care of the memory during power loss events.
I would rent a chain saw rather than buy one. Best bet is to get a pole saw for the remaining tree and start from the top to make the branches lighter.
There's always a bit of muddied terminology when it comes to these types of things. In Bosch's case, impact driver = percussion/hammer drill, which is fine for masonry, although it might be a bit slower than the equivalent corded or SDS drill. Usually, they specify impacts per second/minute or joules of energy with the impact/hammer feature which can help to compare between brands.Impact drill (driver) or Hammer drill?
Which is better for domestic use to drill holes into rough brick walls so we can hang pot plants, garden lights etc.
Tks
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If you are going to drill a lot into tough concrete rather get a corded SDS drill. They work well. The battery drills are fine for a few holes but it drains the battery quite fast.Impact drill (driver) or Hammer drill?
Which is better for domestic use to drill holes into rough brick walls so we can hang pot plants, garden lights etc.
Tks
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Depends on the drill bit size. At 20mm yes 4 holes battery dead. At 10mm I could easily do 40 holes.If you are going to drill a lot into tough concrete rather get a corded SDS drill. They work well. The battery drills are fine for a few holes but it drains the battery quite fast.
Depending on the drill as well. I have the smaller Ryobi battery hammer drill and it won't do 40 holes with the standard 1500 mAh battery (and only 2J energy). The bigger version can do 2.8J, compared to the corded drills that can do 6J. So for heavy work into hard brick that would be better. I got the battery drill for work in my roof cavities with cement bricks, and it works well there.Depends on the drill bit size. At 20mm yes 4 holes battery dead. At 10mm I could easily do 40 holes.
I bought a rotary hammer last month, should have been the first drill I bought. Its made my life tons easier hanging all the crap my wife has me putting me up.Impact drill (driver) or Hammer drill?
Which is better for domestic use to drill holes into rough brick walls so we can hang pot plants, garden lights etc.
Tks
Do we like this?
Builders | Shop DIY, Paint and Building Materials Online
www.builders.co.za
There's always a bit of muddied terminology when it comes to these types of things. In Bosch's case, impact driver = percussion/hammer drill, which is fine for masonry, although it might be a bit slower than the equivalent corded or SDS drill. Usually, they specify impacts per second/minute or joules of energy with the impact/hammer feature which can help to compare between brands.
Here is a good article on the different types of drills available that explains it much more eloquently than I ever can: Types of Drills - Know What Drill to Use When | PTR (protoolreviews.com)
If you are going to drill a lot into tough concrete rather get a corded SDS drill. They work well. The battery drills are fine for a few holes but it drains the battery quite fast.
Depends on the drill bit size. At 20mm yes 4 holes battery dead. At 10mm I could easily do 40 holes.
Massive +1I bought a rotary hammer last month, should have been the first drill I bought. Its made my life tons easier hanging all the crap my wife has me putting me up.
Added to the confusion is that people have started calling rotary hammer drills SDS drills. It's not major, but SDS refers specifically to the bit (and how it is attached to the drill) while rotary hammer is the drill type.There's always a bit of muddied terminology when it comes to these types of things. In Bosch's case, impact driver = percussion/hammer drill, which is fine for masonry, although it might be a bit slower than the equivalent corded or SDS drill. Usually, they specify impacts per second/minute or joules of energy with the impact/hammer feature which can help to compare between brands.
Here is a good article on the different types of drills available that explains it much more eloquently than I ever can: Types of Drills - Know What Drill to Use When | PTR (protoolreviews.com)
If you go cordless, make sure you are getting at least a 4mah battery with it.. you will drain anything smaller before you are done with the job drilling into brick/concrete..Tks Furpile, we've got a corded one but it's a mission for outside so will probably get a cordless one. They are NOT cheap.