The Home Improvements Thread (2)

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How do people deal with this.

I have a door frame with size 755mm from left to right.

Standard door size seems to be 813mm or 762mm wide.

My understanding from reading the instructions, you can trim up to 5mm on each side.

So I messaged doorsdirect on their WhatsApp.

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Tinuva said:
How do people deal with this.

I have a door frame with size 755mm from left to right.

Standard door size seems to be 813mm or 762mm wide.

My understanding from reading the instructions, you can trim up to 5mm on each side.

So I messaged doorsdirect on their WhatsApp.

c1343523cf6cf4ec37f51569161d25a3.jpg
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I think it depends on the type of door. Solid door trim as much as you like, Hollow and it will depend on how it’s made. I trimmed a little too much off the bottom of a hollow door and took out the outer frame by mistake.
 
ghaye said:
Can you notjust modify the one you have? Just need to make the holes a little bigger. It depends of course where you lay on the diy vs open the wallet scale.
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Yeah I'm very much on this side of the diy scale so can give it a try. Just need a quick plan B if it doesn't work
 
abudabi said:
Yeah I'm very much on this side of the diy scale so can give it a try. Just need a quick plan B if it doesn't work
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Many shower heads also have a flow limiter, either before or after the grit filter where it connects to the water pipe. This is normally nylon. If necessary, drill that it was well
 
deesef said:
Many shower heads also have a flow limiter, either before or after the grit filter where it connects to the water pipe. This is normally nylon. If necessary, drill that it was well
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Or just take the limiter out completely.
 
Tinuva said:
How do people deal with this.

I have a door frame with size 755mm from left to right.

Standard door size seems to be 813mm or 762mm wide.

My understanding from reading the instructions, you can trim up to 5mm on each side.

So I messaged doorsdirect on their WhatsApp.
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That really shouldn't be an issue, just try to trim a bit more on the lock side because you still need the structural strength on the hinge side. Many ways to do it as well. Table saw, track saw or circular saw with a guide are probably the best options for the initial cut then a planer to dial in the fit.
 
I have a dbl brick courtyard wall that is sitting on 600 wide / 150 deep foundations. Looking at SANS it seems continuous strip foundation for loadbearing walls should be 600x200. I'm assuming there's nothing I can do (cheaply) in order to use the courtyard wall as the side wall for a new dbl garage?
 
abudabi said:
I have a dbl brick courtyard wall that is sitting on 600 wide / 150 deep foundations. Looking at SANS it seems continuous strip foundation for loadbearing walls should be 600x200. I'm assuming there's nothing I can do (cheaply) in order to use the courtyard wall as the side wall for a new dbl garage?
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In my opinion, not really.. your current foundation isn't deep enough, which isn't something you can just fix, cheaply..

Even if you could dig out underneath the existing foundation and properly support the wall to add the additional concrete required, you are going to have a difficult time tying the existing foundation into the new concrete to achieve the required structural support..
 
WAslayer said:
In my opinion, not really.. your current foundation isn't deep enough, which isn't something you can just fix, cheaply..

Even if you could dig out underneath the existing foundation and properly support the wall to add the additional concrete required, you are going to have a difficult time tying the existing foundation into the new concrete to achieve the required structural support..
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Figured as much... thanks for your input.
 
Hi. Anyone recently replaced barge board and facias with nutec and have a rough idea of the cost per metre (especially in Cape Town) if done by a competent contractor?

We are embarking on our first house purchase and the property we are considering, has severely weathered wooden facias (only major issue). Gutters are new (PVC). House is double storey face brick with around 60m perimeter on the existing wooden facias.

We don't own the place so couldn't get a formal quote (yet). Based on advice from the inspectors we contracted, I had anticipated it would cost somewhere around R150k fully installed, but I spoke to someone who recently got a quote on a similar job and they laughed at me and said it's more like R350k+, and now I don't know what to believe.

TIA
 
fourcall said:
Hi. Anyone recently replaced barge board and facias with nutec and have a rough idea of the cost per metre (especially in Cape Town) if done by a competent contractor?

We are embarking on our first house purchase and the property we are considering, has severely weathered wooden facias (only major issue). Gutters are new (PVC). House is double storey face brick with around 60m perimeter on the existing wooden facias.

We don't own the place so couldn't get a formal quote (yet). Based on advice from the inspectors we contracted, I had anticipated it would cost somewhere around R150k fully installed, but I spoke to someone who recently got a quote on a similar job and they laughed at me and said it's more like R350k+, and now I don't know what to believe.

TIA
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Got a pic of the current situation? They saw you coming I think.
 
fourcall said:
Hi. Anyone recently replaced barge board and facias with nutec and have a rough idea of the cost per metre (especially in Cape Town) if done by a competent contractor?

We are embarking on our first house purchase and the property we are considering, has severely weathered wooden facias (only major issue). Gutters are new (PVC). House is double storey face brick with around 60m perimeter on the existing wooden facias.

We don't own the place so couldn't get a formal quote (yet). Based on advice from the inspectors we contracted, I had anticipated it would cost somewhere around R150k fully installed, but I spoke to someone who recently got a quote on a similar job and they laughed at me and said it's more like R350k+, and now I don't know what to believe.

TIA
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Builders is asking 230 for a 3m length of fascia in nutec and 190 for a 3m length of barge board.. if your 60m perimeter estimate is correct, you are not even hitting 10k for the nutec materials alone.. depending on other sundries needed, i would venture 15k in material cost, assuming it's only barge board and fascia.. perhaps factor in rental of scaffolding as well, given it's a double storey..

Remaining cost is labour and that's going to be largely dictated by how many days they are on site.. I doubt you are in for a 150k bill though, let alone 350k..

Realistically, you will only really know what to expect when you have had contractors out on site to have a look and quote..
 
fourcall said:
Hi. Anyone recently replaced barge board and facias with nutec and have a rough idea of the cost per metre (especially in Cape Town) if done by a competent contractor?

We are embarking on our first house purchase and the property we are considering, has severely weathered wooden facias (only major issue). Gutters are new (PVC). House is double storey face brick with around 60m perimeter on the existing wooden facias.

We don't own the place so couldn't get a formal quote (yet). Based on advice from the inspectors we contracted, I had anticipated it would cost somewhere around R150k fully installed, but I spoke to someone who recently got a quote on a similar job and they laughed at me and said it's more like R350k+, and now I don't know what to believe.

TIA
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R150k??????? Sometimes I think legalising weed was a mistake.
 
fourcall said:
Hi. Anyone recently replaced barge board and facias with nutec and have a rough idea of the cost per metre (especially in Cape Town) if done by a competent contractor?

We are embarking on our first house purchase and the property we are considering, has severely weathered wooden facias (only major issue). Gutters are new (PVC). House is double storey face brick with around 60m perimeter on the existing wooden facias.

We don't own the place so couldn't get a formal quote (yet). Based on advice from the inspectors we contracted, I had anticipated it would cost somewhere around R150k fully installed, but I spoke to someone who recently got a quote on a similar job and they laughed at me and said it's more like R350k+, and now I don't know what to believe.

TIA
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sounds mental, I replaced flat fascia's with barge boards about 2 years ago through a contractor, I also replaced all the horizontal fascia's same time and painted the roof and all the new fascia's and barge boards, also needed to replace some of the brandering, excluding the roof paint i think materials and labour was around R25k.

I would maybe double that and work on it as your budget given inflation, location and the height and angle of your roof.
 
Just dbl checking that what I read here https://www.sans10400.co.za/concrete-foundations/ is accurate

Load bearing external wall foundations that will have a sheeting or tiling roof must be:

500 wide
200 thick
400 below original ground level (does this mean the foundation will start at 400 below and if 200 thick will then end 200 below?)
 
abudabi said:
Just dbl checking that what I read here https://www.sans10400.co.za/concrete-foundations/ is accurate

Load bearing external wall foundations that will have a sheeting or tiling roof must be:

500 wide
200 thick
400 below original ground level (does this mean the foundation will start at 400 below and if 200 thick will then end 200 below?)
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This is how I understand it:
Dig 600 deep below original ground level, pour foundation 200 thick and remaining 400 gets backfill with soil once cured and first few brick courses up to ground level has been built..
 
The ceilings under the carport roof are done. I am happy. And the unbearable heat in there has disappeared. That Isoboard stuff is legit. I am wondering if its even gonna be worth it to still do the back of the garage door with the allububle. I bought one 40m roll and only need 10m if i decide to do it.

I measured the inside of the garage door temp and it reached 50 degrees, not sure if my theremometer can go higher or if that was the actual temp. Kak hot.

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W@P said:
The ceilings under the carport roof are done. I am happy. And the unbearable heat in there has disappeared. That Isoboard stuff is legit. I am wondering if its even gonna be worth it to still do the back of the garage door with the allububle. I bought one 40m roll and only need 10m if i decide to do it.

I measured the inside of the garage door temp and it reached 50 degrees, not sure if my theremometer can go higher or if that was the actual temp. Kak hot.

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What was the cost for the isoboard..? I need insulation and my roof truss spacing is not well suited for the isotherm and think pink rolls.. trusses are spaced far too close together and it's a massive mission to cut those rolls of insulation down the length..

Seems it would be far easier to just pop in new isoboard ceiling instead..
 
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