The Home Improvements Thread (2)

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I have a chest freezer that is looking a bit rough with scratches. Would something like this work on it?
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Where can I find one of these bad boys? I guess still a risk of them bending the door to get it open.

Anything to secure bottom of the door to avoid bending and lifting?

something like this on each side about 30cm from the bottom, obviously oriented in such a way so that the lock can downwards engage, you will need to make up small custom brackets

 
Where can I find one of these bad boys? I guess still a risk of them bending the door to get it open.

Anything to secure bottom of the door to avoid bending and lifting?
Depending on your motor, it may already have a "lockout" mode.

Eg. on our Centurion gate motor, it has a holiday lockout feature. One of the buttons on the remote is programmed for this and when activated, it basically ignores any signals and the motor stays "locked" until deactivating via the remote. We use this at night (plus a padlock) and when the house is empty during the day.

Have look at the user manual of your motor - might be a "quick fix" for some additional security while you're still considering the other options as suggested.

While not ideal when you're away, but for some added security when you're indoors at night I've seen a few suggestions to drill a hole on the racks just above the rollers and fit a padlock so that the door can't be forced up. There are also latches that you can install to lock the door. Great when you're at home - not so much when you need to lock the door from the outside.
 
Thanks for the brilliant suggestions

Is the holiday lockout mode to protect against remote jamming/cloning because the garage would be locked when closed with the remote normally?

I think I'll need to consider latches over night and then manually open them in the morning for now
 
TLDR/
Just out of interest has anyone bought and properly tested these INGCO power tools.
They seem to be on sale everywhere and I am very weary of new makes.

TIA
 
And for my next trick, watch me make this washing machine pipe inlet and outlet disappear

View attachment 1530791

POOF!

View attachment 1530795

The smarties who installed the tap didn't even bother to use screws to hold it in. They decided they aren't scared of silicone and just used it to glue it to the painted wall:cautious:. Once the plaster is dry I can prime it and then repaint when we paint the rest of the bathroom. We're putting in some nice shelves into the corner with maybe a spot for a laundry basket beneath it
Finished painting the bathroom today. The vanishing act is complete

IMG_8577.jpeg
 
Maybe this is the wrong thread to ask, but I've got a bedroom door with a handle a bit like this:

The problem is that the screw holes have completely stripped, and the face plate on the one side is just flapping loose. The mechanism still works, but the loose plate is driving me nuts.

Does anyone know how one would fix such a thing? Is there something that I can fill up the holes with that will be strong enough for me to re-attach the wood screws?
 
Maybe this is the wrong thread to ask, but I've got a bedroom door with a handle a bit like this:

The problem is that the screw holes have completely stripped, and the face plate on the one side is just flapping loose. The mechanism still works, but the loose plate is driving me nuts.

Does anyone know how one would fix such a thing? Is there something that I can fill up the holes with that will be strong enough for me to re-attach the wood screws?
Yeah you get exactly what you need at builders. It goes into an existing hole and becomes the new thread. Lemme find a pic
 
Maybe this is the wrong thread to ask, but I've got a bedroom door with a handle a bit like this:

The problem is that the screw holes have completely stripped, and the face plate on the one side is just flapping loose. The mechanism still works, but the loose plate is driving me nuts.

Does anyone know how one would fix such a thing? Is there something that I can fill up the holes with that will be strong enough for me to re-attach the wood screws?
Grab some wood glue and tooth picks and stuff the screw holes with the glue covered toothpicks.. leave for a day or so to dry and fit the handles again..
 
TLDR/
Just out of interest has anyone bought and properly tested these INGCO power tools.
They seem to be on sale everywhere and I am very weary of new makes.

TIA
I have a Ingco 2000W Rotary which I used extensively during a renovation with the chisel bit to remove tiles, break up concrete floors, etc and it is still going strong.
I also have the battery non hammer drill and the oscillating tool and both are working well for the last 2 years.
 
Maybe this is the wrong thread to ask, but I've got a bedroom door with a handle a bit like this:

The problem is that the screw holes have completely stripped, and the face plate on the one side is just flapping loose. The mechanism still works, but the loose plate is driving me nuts.

Does anyone know how one would fix such a thing? Is there something that I can fill up the holes with that will be strong enough for me to re-attach the wood screws?
Many ways to skin a cat. Two of them have been mentioned here and both should work.

Another two options would be to use dowels (drill screw holes out to whatever size dowels you are using, glue dowels into new holes, screw handle into dowels - my personal preference) or a threaded insert (probably not the best option though tbh).
 
Many ways to skin a cat. Two of them have been mentioned here and both should work.

Another two options would be to use dowels (drill screw holes out to whatever size dowels you are using, glue dowels into new holes, screw handle into dowels - my personal preference) or a threaded insert (probably not the best option though tbh).
Gluing dowels does sound like a good option, they'd need to be fairly thick ones though I'd think.

Thanks.
 
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