The Home Improvements Thread (2)

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Mannydefreitas said:
I'm still confused, is this a roof leak issue?
Does the water run down the walls only when it's raining?
Or is this a dew/frost/humidity issue?
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1.) The water runs down the walls when its raining
2.) The wate runs down the walls when there's enough moisture build up on the roof itself (parapet walls/sheeting/i.e. outside), in winter near the sea, this is every third day.
 
Sounds like it, as mentioned above, you need insulation.
Lift the sheeting.
Lay in Isotherm/Aerolite/Fabufil, where there are ceilings.
Then fit Alu bubble or Alucushion on top of the purlins, pulled tight.
Refit sheeting.
Fit new flashings (what you are calling overlap).
Waterproof.

Note: each sheet must go back EXACTLY where it was, as you cannot make new screw holes.


May be cheaper to move or do "Board and Torch"....
 
xrapidx said:
Nope - and not possible to get it in. The cavity between the ceiling and roof is between 30-60cm - and some parts are not reachable. Looked into getting the spray in stuff - but apparently because we have downlights everywhere - its an issue.
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Isoboard ceilings would be the next best option then.. reducing the cold transfer from the roof space will help with condensation against the ceiling and mould growth..
 
xrapidx said:
I know I've asked this before, so here we go again, We've had multiple roofing companies out - spent north of R100k - none do a good job.

Where I've marked in yellow - there is no overlap between the wall and those flat cover plates. You can actually see it clearer on the parapet wall perpendicular to the one I've marked in yellow. Its basically just butt joined. (even with the torch on)

The last company took the torch on approach for the parapet walls - and I again questioned no ovelap - and again was told its right like this.

View attachment 1552393
(side story: the various shades of red are from my now annual trip up the roof in April to waterproof what could be a problem in the rainy season).

Now my issue - 100% of my walls visibile below which have no ceiling boards (patios/walkways/etc) have water streaks,

Then in various other parts, the water makes it way past the ceiling boards and runs down the walls...

Does anyone know why they say there musnt be an overlap?

I have a section inside that looks like its raining every morning - just from the moisture buildup on the roof because of the cold - I peaked in the ceiling this afternoon and the entire section with the yellow marking (about 8m) is sopping wet (and we haven't had rain this week).

At this point, I'm planning on buying waterproofing membraine and painting it on everywhere where there isn't overlap.
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Can you not cut a slot into the wall with a grinder for the flashing to go into? This way the water cannot get past and into the roof.
 
WAslayer said:
Isoboard ceilings would be the next best option then.. reducing the cold transfer from the roof space will help with condensation against the ceiling and mould growth..
Click to expand...

The mold in the bedroom is a seperate issue though - its the only room with the issue.

Weirdly enough, the room which currently has the indoor waterfall is the only room wiith insultation (the pink stuff) - it was built after the rest of the house, so I'm assuming they did it at the time.
 
xrapidx said:
1.) The water runs down the walls when its raining
2.) The wate runs down the walls when there's enough moisture build up on the roof itself (parapet walls/sheeting/i.e. outside), in winter near the sea, this is every third day.
Click to expand...
I've had this issue for years and I finally got it fixed.
The torch on tape must extend over the parapit, from roof to roof.
Once that is complete, you need to use the rubber paint over that whole section that you torched, extended beyond the tape itself.
 
xrapidx said:
The mold in the bedroom is a seperate issue though - its the only room with the issue.

Weirdly enough, the room which currently has the indoor waterfall is the only room wiith insultation (the pink stuff) - it was built after the rest of the house, so I'm assuming they did it at the time.
Click to expand...
Yes, I am specifically referring to the mould issue and not your roof leaks, for which insulation will do nothing..
 
CamiKaze said:
I've had this issue for years and I finally got it fixed.
The torch on tape must extend over the parapit, from roof to roof.
Once that is complete, you need to use the rubber paint over that whole section that you torched, extended beyond the tape itself.
Click to expand...

That's exactly the issue though - the torch on is only on the parapet wall - not on the roof. I can take a thin ruler and drop it into the ceiling from up top in some places - how or why they say it should be like that is beyond me.
 
furpile said:
Can you not cut a slot into the wall with a grinder for the flashing to go into? This way the water cannot get past and into the roof.
Click to expand...

It's probably possible - but means removing the torch on...and a serious amount of PT. I hope to be out of here in 2-3 years.

You know, it wouldn't actually suprise me if at some point one of the "experts" cut that flashing out of the wall, e.g. when they did the first round of torch on about 10 years ago.
 
furpile said:
Can you not cut a slot into the wall with a grinder for the flashing to go into? This way the water cannot get past and into the roof.
Click to expand...
Mine is like this.
Roof sheets in the wall, side flashing over, and it still leaked.
 
Mannydefreitas said:
Sounds like it, as mentioned above, you need insulation.
Lift the sheeting.
Lay in Isotherm/Aerolite/Fabufil, where there are ceilings.
Then fit Alu bubble or Alucushion on top of the purlins, pulled tight.
Refit sheeting.
Fit new flashings (what you are calling overlap).
Waterproof.

Note: each sheet must go back EXACTLY where it was, as you cannot make new screw holes.


May be cheaper to move or do "Board and Torch"....
Click to expand...
Missed your reply.

I'm not going to live here long enough for that exercise. Literally as soon as this bond is paid - I'm gone.

When I refer to overlap - I'm not refering to a product, I'm trying to understand why 3-4 roofers have told me that there isn't meant to be some sort of cover/barier from wall to roof. In fact, when we redid the bathrooms - they replaced the roof sheets above the bathrooms - and they did it exactly as it is now. (reusing the existing parts).

At this point - I'm just looking for a solution that will stop this **** until I leave.

Places like the garage, patio, walkways etc - are bare - or have boards - so there is no place for insulation, etc...

CamiKaze said:
Mine is like this.
Roof sheets in the wall, side flashing over, and it still leaked.
Click to expand...

Mine is not - I can see the sheeting rusting on the inside where the wate runs buy
 
Mannydefreitas said:
18.1lm of foundation @ R280/L = R5058
18.1 x 500mm of double wall R5610
Plastering both sides = R2780.
Waterproof leading side R680
Total R14 126

Notes:
You don't need a triple wall.
Triple Retaining wall will double the price of items one and two.
The leading sidewill need Coprox in the mix to waterproof.
SABS plastic should be laid against wall before backfilling.

Note: Wall is not a load bearing wall and should never be used as one.

Price excludes backfill, plastic and VAT...
Click to expand...
Thank you very much.
 
xrapidx said:
That's exactly the issue though - the torch on is only on the parapet wall - not on the roof. I can take a thin ruler and drop it into the ceiling from up top in some places - how or why they say it should be like that is beyond me.
Click to expand...
If you have a gap between the roof sheet and wall then get a tin of sika raintite and membrane and put on the wall and overlap on the roof. That is how it should be done.

It also looks like the flashing is sitting just on the edge of the roof sheet. The roof sheet should have gone further under IMO. Possibly when it rains it runs off the flashing and drips between the gaps?
 
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Bikerbob said:
If you have a gap between the roof sheet and wall then get a tin of sika raintite and membrane and put on the wall and overlap on the roof. That is how it should be done.
Click to expand...
Exactly what I plan on doing. I just can't fathom why it's not like that already.
 
For those who may know.. I am in CPT and need to get a covered braai area up.. I know the CoCT is going to want plans, no problem will get those done.. however, I have been reading that some things require at least oversight from a professional and I want to do the work myself here.. would I need a professional here to oversee..?

Additional context, if it helps: the area I want covered already has a pergola structure which I can use.. I would need to replace the beams, however, as they are rotten.. the beams already tie onto the house on one side and two wooden posts with a beam spanning between them.. this beam and two posts are treated and in great condition still.. technically, I just need new beams to cover between the house and roof and drop some roof sheets over that.. also, the pergola structure is not on the plan currently..
 
ShloshMalosh said:
Can anyone recommend a roof guy/person in CPT southern suburbs/cape flats area?

Thanks
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Hi, I live in Jo'Burg. I called a mate who owned a large waterproofing company in Cape Town.
He has sold it & retired, however he highly recommends one of his former employees.
Call William on 065 890 - 0198 & tell him David Ayers recommended him.
 
Mannydefreitas said:
Hi, I live in Jo'Burg. I called a mate who owned a large waterproofing company in Cape Town.
He has sold it & retired, however he highly recommends one of his former employees.
Call William on 065 890 - 0198 & tell him David Ayers recommended him.
Click to expand...
Manny I'm not sure how one retires from doing nothing. But his guys did a good job!
 
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