W@P
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The Home Improvements Thread (3)
- Thread starter TedLasso
- Start date
ToxicBunny
Oi! Leave me out of this...
SHL
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Need some advice regarding roof waterproofing. Is the below from Universal Roofing in line with pricing nowadays or should I get a second opinion?
Yes, I did query number 1. It includes waterproofing under and around brackets/panels.
Yes, I did query number 1. It includes waterproofing under and around brackets/panels.
Last edited:
WAslayer
Honorary Master
If it's not been painted before, leave it that way.. you're going to end up with additional maintenance of repainting every few years..
Brawler
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It has been painted before.
Tongs of Destiny
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please just don't go ahead with this.... just stop, lets think about this
1) why must they remove all your solar panels, set them aside and then put them back? are these painters now electricians, so no they don't need to do that at all. They say they want to access the solar brackets?! those brackets on tiles are designed to slip under the tile and hook on, there is no drilling = no leaks from them. I bet 80% of South African solar panels are on sloped concrete roof tiles, they don't leak.
2) doing the roof ridge is always good... if your roof ridge is bad, cracked and leaking. You can lay a membrane over the entire length of the ridge if you want, the membrane is cheap so might as well. The quote says "repair" that would indicate your ridge tiles / joins are broken? which you would know about... as it would 100% leak and your ceiling would be destroyed. Anyway, you can just find a good painter who would easily do this, you just buy the supplies. Two days and it's done. My painter is here today and he is excellent, R500 per day + food.
3) The valley flashing, stripping out and membraning it to me is a no no.. they are normal galvanized steel valleys with about a +20cm gap between the left and right tiles so the water can flow down freely. If they are too narrow they will block up with leaves and the water overflows underneath the tiles, again there would be a leak if it is serious. To fix that the tiles must be cut back, not a major train smash...you just cut a straight line with a big angle grinder to open the tile gap <-- the flashing is a set size. But that is only done if there is a serious problem and its leaking. you most certainly don't want to start laying a membrane over the tiles and into the valley etc, just no.
4) For the sidewall flashing which is always a plus IF there are leaks.. you can see how they build sidewall flashings into the roof, the water hits the wall, runs down between the tile and the wall, then into the flashing and down into the gutter. The most important join is between the flashing and the wall (obviously) On the picture it would be above those cables, about 10cm that line. Again only fiddle with all that IF there are leaks running down the internal wall in your attic when it rains. Otherwise why bother?
5) eff off you can't waterproof a bracket, again those solar panels clips are designed in a clip on slide way so as to NOT cause leaks, otherwise every single persons roof would be effed up not so.
6) how is a conduit coming out of a tile? one would need to see this... again the solar installer has I'm sure done this before. Is there a leak from it? if not then why are they trying to "fix" something that isn't broken.
7) 99% of leaks on a roof are from..... broken tiles..... yes corner chips can also leak. Do this first, just count how many tiles are broken, cracked, chipped etc. Replace ALL of those. Your gardener, you or your son can do this in a few hours. My gardener has done mine, it's really easy. Please do this first and I bet if you ever had a leak it would all stop, but do ALL the issue tiles.
**) jeezus the lounge and bedroom roof, 12m2 <--- you understand how small that is right. A little square each... And they want almost R13,000! Just get a decent painter, buy the membrane, buy the paint and off you go. That will take 3-4 days max with multiple coats. You will save more than 70% of that price.
***) R1,200 to paint some water stains on the cornices. FML that would take a painter, you, your son literally 30min for the first coat and 30min for the second coat... just go around with a paintbrush.
----------------------------
If you need a proper decent builder who will and can organise everything, the nicest guy and I've known him for +30 years then let me know, he has built many houses for me in the past and renovated more (I'm guessing you are in Joburg) then I can give you his number. 100% good guy and will sort out anything.
If you're in Durban and need a painter, there is one at my folks place and he is excellent.
----------------------------
with all of this, one needs to know where the leak is coming from first and not just spend R70,000 and do everything over the top.
1) why must they remove all your solar panels, set them aside and then put them back? are these painters now electricians, so no they don't need to do that at all. They say they want to access the solar brackets?! those brackets on tiles are designed to slip under the tile and hook on, there is no drilling = no leaks from them. I bet 80% of South African solar panels are on sloped concrete roof tiles, they don't leak.
2) doing the roof ridge is always good... if your roof ridge is bad, cracked and leaking. You can lay a membrane over the entire length of the ridge if you want, the membrane is cheap so might as well. The quote says "repair" that would indicate your ridge tiles / joins are broken? which you would know about... as it would 100% leak and your ceiling would be destroyed. Anyway, you can just find a good painter who would easily do this, you just buy the supplies. Two days and it's done. My painter is here today and he is excellent, R500 per day + food.
3) The valley flashing, stripping out and membraning it to me is a no no.. they are normal galvanized steel valleys with about a +20cm gap between the left and right tiles so the water can flow down freely. If they are too narrow they will block up with leaves and the water overflows underneath the tiles, again there would be a leak if it is serious. To fix that the tiles must be cut back, not a major train smash...you just cut a straight line with a big angle grinder to open the tile gap <-- the flashing is a set size. But that is only done if there is a serious problem and its leaking. you most certainly don't want to start laying a membrane over the tiles and into the valley etc, just no.
4) For the sidewall flashing which is always a plus IF there are leaks.. you can see how they build sidewall flashings into the roof, the water hits the wall, runs down between the tile and the wall, then into the flashing and down into the gutter. The most important join is between the flashing and the wall (obviously) On the picture it would be above those cables, about 10cm that line. Again only fiddle with all that IF there are leaks running down the internal wall in your attic when it rains. Otherwise why bother?
5) eff off you can't waterproof a bracket, again those solar panels clips are designed in a clip on slide way so as to NOT cause leaks, otherwise every single persons roof would be effed up not so.
6) how is a conduit coming out of a tile? one would need to see this... again the solar installer has I'm sure done this before. Is there a leak from it? if not then why are they trying to "fix" something that isn't broken.
7) 99% of leaks on a roof are from..... broken tiles..... yes corner chips can also leak. Do this first, just count how many tiles are broken, cracked, chipped etc. Replace ALL of those. Your gardener, you or your son can do this in a few hours. My gardener has done mine, it's really easy. Please do this first and I bet if you ever had a leak it would all stop, but do ALL the issue tiles.
**) jeezus the lounge and bedroom roof, 12m2 <--- you understand how small that is right. A little square each... And they want almost R13,000! Just get a decent painter, buy the membrane, buy the paint and off you go. That will take 3-4 days max with multiple coats. You will save more than 70% of that price.
***) R1,200 to paint some water stains on the cornices. FML that would take a painter, you, your son literally 30min for the first coat and 30min for the second coat... just go around with a paintbrush.
----------------------------
If you need a proper decent builder who will and can organise everything, the nicest guy and I've known him for +30 years then let me know, he has built many houses for me in the past and renovated more (I'm guessing you are in Joburg) then I can give you his number. 100% good guy and will sort out anything.
If you're in Durban and need a painter, there is one at my folks place and he is excellent.
----------------------------
with all of this, one needs to know where the leak is coming from first and not just spend R70,000 and do everything over the top.
SHL
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Thanks for the detailed explanation. Appreciated. Will contact a builder and get a second opinion. I'm based in Pta, if your guy can assist then please share his details with me via DM. Thanks.please just don't go ahead with this.... just stop, lets think about this
1) why must they remove all your solar panels, set them aside and then put them back? are these painters now electricians, so no they don't need to do that at all. They say they want to access the solar brackets?! those brackets on tiles are designed to slip under the tile and hook on, there is no drilling = no leaks from them. I bet 80% of South African solar panels are on sloped concrete roof tiles, they don't leak.
2) doing the roof ridge is always good... if your roof ridge is bad, cracked and leaking. You can lay a membrane over the entire length of the ridge if you want, the membrane is cheap so might as well. The quote says "repair" that would indicate your ridge tiles / joins are broken? which you would know about... as it would 100% leak and your ceiling would be destroyed. Anyway, you can just find a good painter who would easily do this, you just buy the supplies. Two days and it's done. My painter is here today and he is excellent, R500 per day + food.
3) The valley flashing, stripping out and membraning it to me is a no no.. they are normal galvanized steel valleys with about a +20cm gap between the left and right tiles so the water can flow down freely. If they are too narrow they will block up with leaves and the water overflows underneath the tiles, again there would be a leak if it is serious. To fix that the tiles must be cut back, not a major train smash...you just cut a straight line with a big angle grinder to open the tile gap <-- the flashing is a set size. But that is only done if there is a serious problem and its leaking. you most certainly don't want to start laying a membrane over the tiles and into the valley etc, just no.
4) For the sidewall flashing which is always a plus IF there are leaks.. you can see how they build sidewall flashings into the roof, the water hits the wall, runs down between the tile and the wall, then into the flashing and down into the gutter. The most important join is between the flashing and the wall (obviously) On the picture it would be above those cables, about 10cm that line. Again only fiddle with all that IF there are leaks running down the internal wall in your attic when it rains. Otherwise why bother?
5) eff off you can't waterproof a bracket, again those solar panels clips are designed in a clip on slide way so as to NOT cause leaks, otherwise every single persons roof would be effed up not so.
6) how is a conduit coming out of a tile? one would need to see this... again the solar installer has I'm sure done this before. Is there a leak from it? if not then why are they trying to "fix" something that isn't broken.
7) 99% of leaks on a roof are from..... broken tiles..... yes corner chips can also leak. Do this first, just count how many tiles are broken, cracked, chipped etc. Replace ALL of those. Your gardener, you or your son can do this in a few hours. My gardener has done mine, it's really easy. Please do this first and I bet if you ever had a leak it would all stop, but do ALL the issue tiles.
**) jeezus the lounge and bedroom roof, 12m2 <--- you understand how small that is right. A little square each... And they want almost R13,000! Just get a decent painter, buy the membrane, buy the paint and off you go. That will take 3-4 days max with multiple coats. You will save more than 70% of that price.
***) R1,200 to paint some water stains on the cornices. FML that would take a painter, you, your son literally 30min for the first coat and 30min for the second coat... just go around with a paintbrush.
----------------------------
If you need a proper decent builder who will and can organise everything, the nicest guy and I've known him for +30 years then let me know, he has built many houses for me in the past and renovated more (I'm guessing you are in Joburg) then I can give you his number. 100% good guy and will sort out anything.
If you're in Durban and need a painter, there is one at my folks place and he is excellent.
----------------------------
with all of this, one needs to know where the leak is coming from first and not just spend R70,000 and do everything over the top.
TheSlinger
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Those of you in the PE/Humansdorp/Jefferies surroundings... Any leads on good places to get wood? Looking at making some shelves for us and the best I can find is cctimbers in plz.
Hi everyone, just looking for some guidance with something.
We have palisades with an electric fence fitted. I want to convert a part of the palisades into a motorised gate (the palisades will be used for the gate, and the electric fence modified to still run on top of the gate), so there will be some metalwork as well as electrical work with the fence. Is this something that typically requires an electrician as well as a gate installer to be done correctly, or do I not need to worry about getting an electrician for the job?
I'm based in Centurion
We have palisades with an electric fence fitted. I want to convert a part of the palisades into a motorised gate (the palisades will be used for the gate, and the electric fence modified to still run on top of the gate), so there will be some metalwork as well as electrical work with the fence. Is this something that typically requires an electrician as well as a gate installer to be done correctly, or do I not need to worry about getting an electrician for the job?
I'm based in Centurion
I don't think you need an electrician, but you will need to get the input of a certified electric fence installer. Electric fences also have to be certified these days.
Yeh - if I recall - cleaned the walls as best I could.
1. Permobond first coat
2. Permabond + paint mix second coat
3. Paint coat.
Still looks like the day we painted it a few years ago - I'm actually going to do another section in a month or so.
spiff
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FFS who invented stippled walls
WAslayer
Honorary Master
All my previous properties had them, until thankfully we moved to our current house with smooth walls, at least on the inside.. painted and filling holes etc is a breeze..FFS who invented stippled walls
spiff
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my braai room wall - which was the original outside stippled wall - was skreeded smooth by the builder - should have got him to do all the outside walls.
no matter how many times I go over the wall there's always a little spot unpainted
Hi everyone, looking for some advice/recommendations.
Recently installed "carport", didn't have time to do anything to the beams whilst they were on the ground, so want to treat them now. Beams have been sanded so need to stain or varnish them now, looking for suggestions,
1) linseed oil
or
2) varnish/stain
Recently installed "carport", didn't have time to do anything to the beams whilst they were on the ground, so want to treat them now. Beams have been sanded so need to stain or varnish them now, looking for suggestions,
1) linseed oil
or
2) varnish/stain
W@P
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I have been using Rystix |Timbacare Armadeck Clear on a wooden pole fence and thick beams. The stuff really works. Holds up to the elements.
W@P
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What does the beams look like currently?
. Will take a pic when I’m home again