Which 9mm ammo do you recommend for EDC?

[Foxhound5366]

So my handgun thread has gone so well, it's probably time to ask about the next hot topic ... 9mm ammo.

Please don't be a hero on this thread. If you don't know something, say so. PLEASE don't pretend to know more than you do. Don't regurgitate marketing trivia from YouTube. Selecting the wrong ammo could be a life-or-death situation.

I started off just looking at the 18 options on Safari Outdoor's website: https://safarioutdoor.co.za/shooting/ammo/handgun-ammo/l/calibre:9mm-par-9x19mm

Some obvious questions:
1) How much is 'enough' grain? Should one always opt for the the largest number because that makes the biggest bang? It looks like it starts at 115gr and then goes to 124gr, 127gr, 134gr and all the way up to 147gr.
2) I get that 'P' is the standard, and '+P' is also a 'bigger bang' (isn't that usually more grain?), but I can see some ammo marked as +P+... which of those are preferable for self-defence?
3) In terms of bullets, everyone is offering jacketed hollow points ... does it really matter which 'style' you go for? Is one definitively better than another? Hornady has their 'FTX' bullet, Sig has a 'V-Crown' and Federal has 'Hydra-Shok'. Has anyone actually seen this make a difference in a real-world self-defence scenario?
4) Where do you get your ammo from? Online or ye olde' local gunshop? Please share links / recommendations.

 

[AntennaMan]

So my handgun thread has gone so well, it's probably time to ask about the next hot topic ... 9mm ammo.

Please don't be a hero on this thread. If you don't know something, say so. PLEASE don't pretend to know more than you do. Don't regurgitate marketing trivia from YouTube. Selecting the wrong ammo could be a life-or-death situation.

I started off just looking at the 18 options on Safari Outdoor's website: https://safarioutdoor.co.za/shooting/ammo/handgun-ammo/l/calibre:9mm-par-9x19mm

Some obvious questions:
1) How much is 'enough' grain? Should one always opt for the the largest number because that makes the biggest bang? It looks like it starts at 115gr and then goes to 124gr, 127gr, 134gr and all the way up to 147gr.
2) I get that 'P' is the standard, and '+P' is also a 'bigger bang' (isn't that usually more grain?), but I can see some ammo marked as +P+... which of those are preferable for self-defence?
3) In terms of bullets, everyone is offering jacketed hollow points ... does it really matter which 'style' you go for? Is one definitively better than another? Hornady has their 'FTX' bullet, Sig has a 'V-Crown' and Federal has 'Hydra-Shok'. Has anyone actually seen this make a difference in a real-world self-defence scenario?
4) Where do you get your ammo from? Online or ye olde' local gunshop? Please share links / recommendations.

1. Heavier bullets have less powder, and you will have less perceived recoil, making follow up shots easier. I use 147gr.
2. If you ha e a modern firearm, it doesn't really matter. Hotter ammo will have more recoil.
3. Any hollow point from a reputable manufacturer should be OK. Stay away from rip, zombie slayer 2000 or any weird or crap like that. I use Winchester Ranger T. It has a good reputation and is "affordable". Think I paid R600/50. Any of the brands you mention will be OK.
4. Shop around for best prices. I don't buy ammo online.
5. Whatever ammo you buy, immediately test it in your firearm. If it works, buy another box from the same batch (look at batch number). You don't want to trust your life on untested ammo.

 

[Foxhound5366]

1. Heavier bullets have less powder, and you will have less perceived recoil, making follow up shots easier. I use 147gr.
2. If you ha e a modern firearm, it doesn't really matter. Hotter ammo will have more recoil.
3. Any hollow point from a reputable manufacturer should be OK. Stay away from rip, zombie slayer 2000 or any weird or crap like that. I use Winchester Ranger T. It has a good reputation and is "affordable". Think I paid R600/50. Any of the brands you mention will be OK.
4. Shop around for best prices. I don't buy ammo online.
5. Whatever ammo you buy, immediately test it in your firearm. If it works, buy another box from the same batch (look at batch number). You don't want to trust your life on untested ammo.

How do you do number 5 practically? Do you go back to a gun store and hope no one has bought out the batch of ammo while you were away? Or do you shoot the ammo to test it at a store with a range, and then buy another box of whatever you like while you’re there?

 

[AntennaMan]

How do you do number 5 practically? Do you go back to a gun store and hope no one has bought out the batch of ammo while you were away? Or do you shoot the ammo to test it at a store with a range, and then buy another box of whatever you like while you’re there?

Buy at a shop with a range. Or live dangerously and buy two boxes from the get go.

 

[Jam Sandwich]

I have shot all sorts of grain weight though my Glocks....

Currently running 115 gr(?) S&B hollow point...I think that was about R450 a box. Quite honestly for me its a cost issue as I plan to replace my carry ammo every year and cycle the old stuff to the other weapon. I have shot several boxes of the S&B carry ammo through the guns with zero issues, even for a newbie like myself with limited gun control/handling experience...(Mate has had endless issues with his Beretta and same ammo...except he is a limp wrister I think...)

For range time I shoot whatever is cheapest...I have run through a few boxes of reloads but Im not overly keen on it....(Worried about damage to the weapon and then the wait io get it sorted out...). For the hassle of getting somnething like a gun fixed vs paying a few rand more for factory loads, rather pay the extra...Thats my opinion...

I buy the ammo from the gun shops or if a range has some on sale. Generally though my local shop always has S&B in stock so this is what I use...I have no experience with ammo other than just shooting it out...lol..

 

[RonSwanson]

Speer Gold Dot 124 grain +P has served me well for many years. Excellent for vehicle glass penetration.

 

[hellfire]

1. Heavier bullets have less powder, and you will have less perceived recoil, making follow up shots easier. I use 147gr.
2. If you ha e a modern firearm, it doesn't really matter. Hotter ammo will have more recoil.
3. Any hollow point from a reputable manufacturer should be OK. Stay away from rip, zombie slayer 2000 or any weird or crap like that. I use Winchester Ranger T. It has a good reputation and is "affordable". Think I paid R600/50. Any of the brands you mention will be OK.
4. Shop around for best prices. I don't buy ammo online.
5. Whatever ammo you buy, immediately test it in your firearm. If it works, buy another box from the same batch (look at batch number). You don't want to trust your life on untested ammo.

Agree with point 3 most of all.
Carry ammo from a trusted manufacturer

 

[SykomantiS]

So my handgun thread has gone so well, it's probably time to ask about the next hot topic ... 9mm ammo.

Please don't be a hero on this thread. If you don't know something, say so. PLEASE don't pretend to know more than you do. Don't regurgitate marketing trivia from YouTube. Selecting the wrong ammo could be a life-or-death situation.

I started off just looking at the 18 options on Safari Outdoor's website: https://safarioutdoor.co.za/shooting/ammo/handgun-ammo/l/calibre:9mm-par-9x19mm

Some obvious questions:
1) How much is 'enough' grain? Should one always opt for the the largest number because that makes the biggest bang? It looks like it starts at 115gr and then goes to 124gr, 127gr, 134gr and all the way up to 147gr.
2) I get that 'P' is the standard, and '+P' is also a 'bigger bang' (isn't that usually more grain?), but I can see some ammo marked as +P+... which of those are preferable for self-defence?
3) In terms of bullets, everyone is offering jacketed hollow points ... does it really matter which 'style' you go for? Is one definitively better than another? Hornady has their 'FTX' bullet, Sig has a 'V-Crown' and Federal has 'Hydra-Shok'. Has anyone actually seen this make a difference in a real-world self-defence scenario?
4) Where do you get your ammo from? Online or ye olde' local gunshop? Please share links / recommendations.

1. I would think shot placement is more important than bullet weight.
2. the "P" rating refers to the pressure the ammo is loaded to, not bullet weight, but it gets fuzzy. Not all manufacturers +P+ gives the same velocity (actually that's true for any loading, standard or hotter).
No comment on the rest

 

[notayoba]

A phrase that gets repeated ad-nauseum is to test your carry ammo in your own gun. I guess it's true, but to be honest, I've never seen or heard of any commercial carry ammo that doesn't work in a Glock. Sure go test a magazine or 2 to make sure it works, but no need to go overboard and run boxes of the stuff through your gun.

Some points to consider IMHO:

-Get something with bonded hollow point bullets in the 115-147gr range from a manufacturer you've heard of before.

-Good carry ammo should be nickel plated, it's far more corrosion resistant. Especially pertinent for carry, as it will constantly be exposed to a high moisture environment. (your salty sweat).

-The good ammo normally has sealed primers. For the same moist, salty reason as above.

And then the most important point. Buy what you can find, and buy a lot. It won't get any cheaper. I've spent countless hours researching the 'optimum' choice, only to find it was last available in the days of disco.

In South Africa you normally end up with Winchester Ranger T, as that is just about the only thing you'll find if you don't feel like spending R50 per round. Either the 147gr, or 127 gr +p+.

 

[Foxhound5366]

Some good detailed advice on here, thanks guys! I’m guessing heavier grain bullets might help with penetration, but at lower velocities it probably works out equal.

Is +P worth it, or a bad thing if you’re regularly putting your gun under extra stress on the range compared to regular loads?

 

[notayoba]

Is +P worth it, or a bad thing if you’re regularly putting your gun under extra stress on the range compared to regular loads?

Depends on the gun. For a G19, I wouldn't lose a second of sleep about +p or +p+. The same frame is used for 357 Sig, and 40 S&W, which put far more stress on the gun that 9mm. If you have some lightweight micro compact, then it might actually become a consideration.

Unless you are super wealthy, you also won't be running a boxes and boxes the stuff through your gun. It's simply too expensive to use as regular range ammo.

 

[qscwbt]

 

[Pitbull]

Only need to know 2 things.

1. Stopping power = Hollow point.
2. Grain doesn't really matter for self-defense. If you are a precision shooter it becomes more of a min/max thing.

End of the day, buy the best hollow points you can afford. Just like shoes, normally the quality ones cost more. If you want to chuck lead down the shooting range, buy PMP. For anything else, never by PMP. I have experienced, casing issues with PMP ammo. For self-defense I load, FMJ, Hollow, FMJ, Hollow and so on. Never know when you need to shoot and there is something in the way.

 

[Foxhound5366]

Only need to know 2 things.

1. Stopping power = Hollow point.
2. Grain doesn't really matter for self-defense. If you are a precision shooter it becomes more of a min/max thing.

End of the day, buy the best hollow points you can afford. Just like shoes, normally the quality ones cost more. If you want to chuck lead down the shooting range, buy PMP. For anything else, never by PMP. I have experienced, casing issues with PMP ammo. For self-defense I load, FMJ, Hollow, FMJ, Hollow and so on. Never know when you need to shoot and there is something in the way.

Ok wait that’s interesting, can you explain your last line? Something in the way? A blockage? Surely firing a gun while your barrel is blocked is a sure fire way to have a nasty explosion? Or are you just talking about having a lot more penetration with the FMJ rounds?

 

[Captain-Blackadder]

Only need to know 2 things.

1. Stopping power = Hollow point.
2. Grain doesn't really matter for self-defense. If you are a precision shooter it becomes more of a min/max thing.

End of the day, buy the best hollow points you can afford. Just like shoes, normally the quality ones cost more. If you want to chuck lead down the shooting range, buy PMP. For anything else, never by PMP. I have experienced, casing issues with PMP ammo. For self-defense I load, FMJ, Hollow, FMJ, Hollow and so on. Never know when you need to shoot and there is something in the way.

1. 'Stopping power' in handgun calibers is a movie myth.
2. To a point. Heavier is often still better. In SD situations very few people are 'precision shooters'.

HP/FMJ/HP/FMJ nice Smartie box load, you forgot the blank first to just scare them and snake shot second because you do not really want to kill someone.

Most premium HP ammo is perfectly fine for shooting through the stuff you might have to 'shoot through' in any SD situation - maybe post less and go and do some research on what modern HP ammo is capable of and designed to do.

 

[Captain-Blackadder]

Ok wait that’s interesting, can you explain your last line? Something in the way? A blockage? Surely firing a gun while your barrel is blocked is a sure fire way to have a nasty explosion? Or are you just talking about having a lot more penetration with the FMJ rounds?

He is referring to having to shoot through obstacles, and posting from a position of ignorance.

Use premium hollow point ammunition which functions reliably in your firearm for carry ammunition, and do not carry it for 20 years, replace it at times.
Yes, good ammunition is fine for many years, but carry ammunition comes in contact with sweat, gun lubricant and so on.

Use FMJ for practice, but do shoot your carry ammunition in practice at times too, like when you are going to replace the ammunition you have been carrying for some time, and of course to make sure the brand/type functions reliably in your gun.

 

[Pitbull]

Ok wait that’s interesting, can you explain your last line? Something in the way? A blockage? Surely firing a gun while your barrel is blocked is a sure fire way to have a nasty explosion? Or are you just talking about having a lot more penetration with the FMJ rounds?

The velocity the bullet travels at, a thing like a branch will render the Hollow point kinda useless due to it expanding before hitting the target. When a FMJ will just go straight through. Same if you are attached as an example and need to shoot through a car door. I actually still have a few Eliminator rounds. But they are dated and should probably be shot out... Those were the SHYTE! Can't find them anymore locally it seems.

 

[Pitbull]

1. 'Stopping power' in handgun calibers is a movie myth.
2. To a point. Heavier is often still better. In SD situations very few people are 'precision shooters'.

HP/FMJ/HP/FMJ nice Smartie box load, you forgot the blank first to just scare them and snake shot second because you do not really want to kill someone.

Most premium HP ammo is perfectly fine for shooting through the stuff you might have to 'shoot through' in any SD situation - maybe post less and go and do some research on what modern HP ammo is capable of and designed to do.

Don't worry, seems you have a pretty smart guy here.

I'll leave him to it...

 

[notayoba]

1. 'Stopping power' in handgun calibers is a movie myth.
2. To a point. Heavier is often still better. In SD situations very few people are 'precision shooters'.

HP/FMJ/HP/FMJ nice Smartie box load, you forgot the blank first to just scare them and snake shot second because you do not really want to kill someone.

Most premium HP ammo is perfectly fine for shooting through the stuff you might have to 'shoot through' in any SD situation - maybe post less and go and do some research on what modern HP ammo is capable of and designed to do.

This ^

That nonsense is internet gun lore, up there with the R50 AK your buddy's buddy can find for you.

A handgun is still a handgun, doesn't become a magical super canon due to hollow points. And smartybox loads are higher grade baloney.

And the main issue with hollow points and barriers isn't lack of penetration, it's the hollow becoming clogged, and failing to expand.

 

[Captain-Blackadder]

Don't worry, seems you have a pretty smart guy here.

I'll leave him to it...

Good, you really should.