Wiring a Standard Light Switch which was Previously a Dimmer

RedViking

RedViking

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Can I replace this with a standard light switch as I don't want to spend R500 on a D500LED-P DIMMER?
As you can see the black and green/yellow is going back to somewhere else. So I only have the two red wires. Can I connect those two red wires (image 1) which was previously connected to the dimmer (image 2) to a normal on/off switch (image 3), no more dimmer?

1680087492836.png1680087526401.png

1680087514660.png

Actually that doesn't make sense to me. Now what I do now?
 
Just remove the connecting block and screw the 2 red wires coming from the wire-box into the conventional switch.
 
RedViking said:
So that will work?

Cool.

Usually it is black and red going in there.
Click to expand...
The switch is an in-line circuit breaker. If you touch the 2 red wires from the wall-box together, the light will also come on.

The dimmer, also connected in-line, varies the current which reaches the lights.
 
LCBXX said:
The switch is an in-line circuit breaker. If you touch the 2 red wires from the wall-box together, the light will also come on.

The dimmer, also connected in-line, varies the current which reaches the lights.
Click to expand...
That makes sense. I am going to go ahead then and connect the two red wires.
 
RedViking said:
That makes sense. I am going to go ahead then and connect the two red wires.
Click to expand...
Shot.

It gets a little more complicated when you have a switch box with 2 or more sperate lights. Without a tester it's challenging to determine which one of the reds are live.
 
Neuk_ said:
Video please and make it exciting...
Click to expand...
giphy.gif
 
RedViking said:
So that will work?

Cool.

Usually it is black and red going in there?
Click to expand...
You're lucky, your sparky wired a neutral for you and even a earth. Switches are inline to a wire, ie: same colour wire goes in one end and is reconnected on the other. Red and black are when you have a load between them. For example, the light itself, will have a red ( live ) from the switch and a black ( neutral ) from your common neutrals. That will complete the power circuit.

If your whole home is like that, I'd consider installing some wireless wifi wall switches. I have RF ones because of no neutral ( to a wifi bridge ) and its great to control the lighting and scenes.
 
Kosmik said:
You're lucky, your sparky wired a neutral for you and even a earth. Switches are inline to a wire, ie: same colour wire goes in one end and is reconnected on the other. Red and black are when you have a load between them. For example, the light itself, will have a red ( live ) from the switch and a black ( neutral ) from your common neutrals. That will complete the power circuit.
Click to expand...
Why am I lucky as I don't need the neutral and earth. I just need to connect those two red wires to the switch. THe other two is none of my business, right?
 
I had this issue and got an electrician in to get it right.

The problem is that some dimmers have additional hardware at the light so its not that easy to DIY. I watched the guy do it and still not sure what it actually entailed, I think joining was involved.

The new house has Dimmers everywhere and it drives me nuts.
 
RedViking said:
Why am I lucky as I don't need the neutral and earth. I just need to connect those two red wires to the switch. THe other two is none of my business, right?
Click to expand...
yes but if you ever want to use a loadbearing device in that socket ie: a smart switch, you don't need to pull wire, you can tap it right there.
 
Just be careful please, with a switch removed that thing is obviously live so ensure your isolators in in or better mains.

There is no greater disappointment than inspecting your own home wiring an seeing what some random sparkles have done. Scarring.
 
Ugly question @RedViking .

Was this exactly how you found it?

1680087514660-png.1500183


Because I have a irratation with the electrician who signed off our house beacuse of that. See here:

1680087492836-png.1500181


Those two metal loops. if you look at the back of the switch plate there are two matching holes. What's supposed to happen is that there is a screw that is meant to go through the one plastic cover and bolt the frame to the metal frame. The the second plastic cover, just clips on and off. On yours, like mine, it just looks like the left it loose and painted/siliconed around it to hold it in place. What happens eventually is this falls out and pulls on the wires.
 
Kosmik said:
Ugly question @RedViking .

Was this exactly how you found it?

1680087514660-png.1500183


Because I have a irratation with the electrician who signed off our house beacuse of that. See here:

1680087492836-png.1500181


Those two metal loops. if you look at the back of the switch plate there are two matching holes. What's supposed to happen is that there is a screw that is meant to go through the one plastic cover and bolt the frame to the metal frame. The the second plastic cover, just clips on and off. On yours, like mine, it just looks like the left it loose and painted/siliconed around it to hold it in place. What happens eventually is this falls out and pulls on the wires.
Click to expand...
That is the new on/off switch. Just took it out of the package.

The other switch is one of those you hold in to dim the lights. And hold in again to brighten. Very annoying. It is properly fixed with two screws as you explained. This house they seem to have done stuff properly. Hence, why I don't want to burn anything down.
 
RedViking said:
That is the new on/off switch. Just took it out of the package.

The other switch is one of those you hold in to dim the lights. And hold in again to brighten. Very annoying. It is properly fixed with two screws as you explained. This house they seem to have done stuff properly. Hence, why I don't want to burn anything down.
Click to expand...
Did you find the 2 screws clipped into the cover under the shroud .?it used to be so much easier when the switched wire had to be blue.
 
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