All things Shelly

You can wire three gang to a single Shelly1:

A few more junctions in the switch box
We'd recommend using Wago clip connector, for the junctions.

I think he means three individial switches for three different lights - not a 3-way switch.
 
From my experience, Shelly is definetely better quality. I haven't had one issue with the two I've got running - whereas I've replaced, or had problems with, a few Sonoffs.
Also had my first Sonoff fail during the last session of loadshedding we had.

Still busy expanding on my current system, but luckily it's still small enough to start changing to @ShellySA . Products looks good, product range available locally must just expand now.
 
@ShellySA are there options for a 3 gang switch or would 1 have to buy 3 x Shelly 1's?

Also @ShellySA why am I the only one on this thread not being appreciated?? :ROFL:

You could achieve it with a Shelly1 and a Shelly2.5 (its what I've done at home and will repeat the process for the other 3 gang switches I have)

If anything the 2.5 is a nicer product that the 1 in that it also monitors power usage...

so for a unified experience you could do it with a 1PM and a 2.5
 
How do you connect a Shelly 1 to a pool pump?

I have an old DB board looking thing there, where exactly do I wire it in?
 
How do you connect a Shelly 1 to a pool pump?

I have an old DB board looking thing there, where exactly do I wire it in?
Best is to wire to the electrical box in your pool pump housing, provided Wifi will reach there.

At Db board would be the Isolator for the pool pump supply
 
Also had my first Sonoff fail during the last session of loadshedding we had.

Still busy expanding on my current system, but luckily it's still small enough to start changing to @ShellySA . Products looks good, product range available locally must just expand now.
Working tirelessly on the expansion @mbayshark.
 
Best is to wire to the electrical box in your pool pump housing, provided Wifi will reach there.

At Db board would be the Isolator for the pool pump supply

So basically remove the electrical box cover and wire it as if it were a light switch?
 
Best is to wire to the electrical box in your pool pump housing, provided Wifi will reach there.

At Db board would be the Isolator for the pool pump supply
Here's the Shelly 1 wiring diagram for 230V
Shelly+1+wiring+diagram.png
 
So basically remove the electrical box cover and wire it as if it were a light switch?

Its a bit more complicated in so much as you have to give the Shelly1 a Live and a Neutral over and above wiring it like a lightswitch.
 
So basically remove the electrical box cover and wire it as if it were a light switch?
And please remember to connect the existing pump isolator into SW (switch) port of Shelly 1, that manual operation can override the Shelly1.
This wiring configuration will be to code
 
Its a bit more complicated in so much as you have to give the Shelly1 a Live and a Neutral over and above wiring it like a lightswitch.

Oh that's what I meant, as in wiring a Shelly behind a light switch is no different to wiring it to a pool pump i.e. it needs live and neutral as you say.

It's just, I'm not sure what the wiring at the pool pump will look like, so a bit hesitant.
 
Oh that's what I meant, as in wiring a Shelly behind a light switch is no different to wiring it to a pool pump i.e. it needs live and neutral as you say.

It's just, I'm not sure what the wiring at the pool pump will look like, so a bit hesitant.

You probably find you'll have a Live/Neutral coming in, with an isolator on the cable, either just on the Live or on the Live and Neutral. From there it would go to the timer and then to the pool (usually a standardised pool pump install)
 
These are, will be available in SA, May 2020
Are the door and window sensors also WiFi and MQTT ready like the relays?

Also, price?
Sorry, indeed WiFi and MQTT

Interestingly the sensor standby = 2 years with more that 12 000 wake-up cmds.
Takes two CR123A for form factor of 82x23x20mm.

Good quality duracell CR123A is a must to prevent acid leaching.
 
You probably find you'll have a Live/Neutral coming in, with an isolator on the cable, either just on the Live or on the Live and Neutral. From there it would go to the timer and then to the pool (usually a standardised pool pump install)

Sorry, what does the isolator look like?

I need to check for some YouTube videos perhaps to make sure I don't stuff it up.
 
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