All things Shelly

I just noticed that I have two different types of packaging for some Shelly 1's I bought, part of the same order. Different baroness but the devices look the same.
20211213_093135.jpg
 
Noob question.

So with the Shelly 1. Does the physical button on the wall switch still control the lights independently or does it have to stay in the “on” position all the time for it to be controlled by the app exclusively?
 
Noob question.

So with the Shelly 1. Does the physical button on the wall switch still control the lights independently or does it have to stay in the “on” position all the time for it to be controlled by the app exclusively?
It can be wired to still retain the function of the physical switch.
 
It can be wired to still retain the function of the physical switch.

It there a specific way that’s not mentioned in the installation pamphlet cos the electrician put in the module when he was doing some lighting upgrades and it doesn’t work this way.
 
It there a specific way that’s not mentioned in the installation pamphlet cos the electrician put in the module when he was doing some lighting upgrades and it doesn’t work this way.
Nology sent me this via email when I contacted them and queried this. I've had two different electricians refer to the diagram and successfully install Shelly 1's at my house, retaining use of the physical switches.

Screenshot_20220102-151731_Gmail.jpg
 
It there a specific way that’s not mentioned in the installation pamphlet cos the electrician put in the module when he was doing some lighting upgrades and it doesn’t work this way.
I wired mine myself and they work this way. Depends a bit on the mode you select when the physical switch is out of sync with the actual state. But it works fine.
 
I just noticed that I have two different types of packaging for some Shelly 1's I bought, part of the same order. Different baroness but the devices look the same.
View attachment 1211764
Just a refresh of the packaging, thats all. You'll see that the ICASA sticker is the same which means they are the same device since every Shelly model we bring it needs to be certified with ICASA.
 
I wired mine myself and they work this way. Depends a bit on the mode you select when the physical switch is out of sync with the actual state. But it works fine.

Do you mind sharing the settings you have on the app to allow for this ?
 
Sorry for the dumb question, but where do you buy the Shelly products from?
I know Geewiz, Robo Factory and Takealot sells them, but al of them has limited options and stock.
 
Sorry for the dumb question, but where do you buy the Shelly products from?
I know Geewiz, Robo Factory and Takealot sells them, but al of them has limited options and stock.
Not all products are certified in SA hence the limitations. Chipset shortages have also affected most electronics manufacturers.
 
Just a question, if you want to power off all of the lights that are still on in the morning do you have to create a schedule for each switch or do you do it by group.
 
Does the Shelly 2 dimmer control 2 independent switches ?
 
Only one. It is just version 2 of their dimmer.

I was confused by the sw1 and sw2 connectors.

Is there any dimmer out there which has 2 switches as putting in 2 may be tight
 
Just some Info for the guys who install the dimmers. You can go into setting and calibrate the dimmer switch with the lights. It makes a difference
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Hi all

I would appreciate advice from people who have used the Shelly Dimmer 2 and Shelly 1. We are doing a compete home renovation, almost a rebuild and want to include home automation throughout. The key element for me is that the home automation will be invisible I.e unless I say something people would not know.

I am looking at putting in 18 x Shelly Dimmer 2 and 15 x Shelly 1s. Will be using Legrand Arteor light switches and plugs through the house.

My concern is around the reliability and performance of the these devices and specifically the dimmer switches. I do not want to be fiddling with a light switch if the wifi goes out etc.
Also the Shelly Dimmer 2 I have configured as a test unit, the dimmer seems to have a bit of lag when I dim it with a physical switch.

Also what would happen if the company goes under, do these still keep working as intended dumb switches? My thoughts are they would.

Would appreciate anyone who has been using these devices for sometime around there continual performance, random disconnects, etc.

I have added the electrical plan for context.
 

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I can't really help with your question. Just want to say your plans look like it's going to be a nice place. Good luck with the renovation. How far in the project are you?
 
I can't really help with your question. Just want to say your plans look like it's going to be a nice place. Good luck with the renovation. How far in the project are you?
Thanks so much

They are busy demolitioning at the moment, plan is to move in Julyish
 
Hi all

I would appreciate advice from people who have used the Shelly Dimmer 2 and Shelly 1. We are doing a compete home renovation, almost a rebuild and want to include home automation throughout. The key element for me is that the home automation will be invisible I.e unless I say something people would not know.

I am looking at putting in 18 x Shelly Dimmer 2 and 15 x Shelly 1s. Will be using Legrand Arteor light switches and plugs through the house.

My concern is around the reliability and performance of the these devices and specifically the dimmer switches. I do not want to be fiddling with a light switch if the wifi goes out etc.
Also the Shelly Dimmer 2 I have configured as a test unit, the dimmer seems to have a bit of lag when I dim it with a physical switch.

Also what would happen if the company goes under, do these still keep working as intended dumb switches? My thoughts are they would.

Would appreciate anyone who has been using these devices for sometime around there continual performance, random disconnects, etc.

I have added the electrical plan for context.
The thing with Shellies is, that you do not need to flash their firmware to disconnect them from the cloud. That's right, out of the box it has a setting to disconnect from the shelly cloud. That there alone makes it perfect to not worry about the longevity of the company at all.

And that is also how I run mine. They are all disconnected from the cloud automatically by just enabling MQTT, which can then integrate with any local LAN home automation software you prefer. Mine ofcoarse is Home Assistant.

As for the wifi being down. For me that just is not an option with both me and wife working from home. So we have a solar setup, but on top of that, the network equipment also have a small 600w inverter backup, so that if the house's earth leakage trip (and it happen more than you know/expect), the house can go down but the wifi and internet stays up! In fact, I would say this is something you should plan for right now. With home automation, the wifi is super duper important and you should run it like it is part of a business.

That said, the shellies for me in this setup, has been super reliable, they are basically the most stable component in my whole home automation eco system. I only tinkered with them when I installed them in 2020. From there I only added auto firmware updates through Home Assistant and basically forgot about them.

The sonoffs, even with tasmota flashed have had their fair share of problems, losing wifi config etc. Although I rate more stable than people still using ewelink. Zigbee, my setup aint bad but the experience is far from ideal.

Thats my 2c :P
 
Also, biggest thing is to have proper wifi coverage with decent equipment. Not a big fan of cheap switches/wifi ap's as they always tend to give problems. I run complete unifi setup with ap's, switches, cameras and usg. Everything is extremely stable and no wifi issues at all. Currently sitting with 43 wifi device over 3 ap's and they just work without any issue.

I do have a shelly dimmer in the mix, only issue I have is that the lights would have a flicker every now and then for less than a second. From reading up about this, seems like it depends on the bulb used as well. Haven't been able to solve it, which tells me it might be the bulb.
 
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