All things Shelly

How would anyone know, if those sold in SA have no certification markings on them and look identical to those coming from EU?
a) Each SSID that the Shelly emits is different - so that's the unique identifier. Remember most devices have ICASAon both the package and the device. It's not often an exemption is granted

b) Assuming a fire and the device doesn't switch on, there are other ways if they really want to. Shelly have a record of what was sent to Nology since they started distributing, and Nology have a record of what was sold to each reseller. If it ever got that far (which I doubt), they're ask where you bought the Shelly (there'd be an online trail) and trace the paperwork back . They can even tie in paperwork from customs / dates received
Are you expected to save the packaging for your insurance in case there’s a claim one day?
As above
How many other devices in our homes doesn’t carry certification, do you check every bulb, plug top, double adaptor, extention cable you buy, especially those you buy from the corner place which mostly stocks unknown brands, in other words direct China imports?
Typically a legit store won't stock uncertified devices . Even with market places, the market place requests proof of certification before listing. There are issues where something slips though (even on Takealot) , but generally if it's at a decent store - it's certified. If it's the corner store down the road, I suspect you should at least check.
 
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How would anyone know, if those sold in SA have no certification markings on them and look identical to those coming from EU?
Are you expected to save the packaging for your insurance in case there’s a claim one day?
How many other devices in our homes doesn’t carry certification, do you check every bulb, plug top, double adaptor, extention cable you buy, especially those you buy from the corner place which mostly stocks unknown brands, in other words direct China imports?
A bulb is not the same as a plug, switch or breaker directly wired into your electrical system. CoC are there for a reason.

As for certification. They would link the device numbering or model to the certification.

You supposed to keep a box or proof of purchase. When you claim insurance asks you for proof or the box, correct?

These are granted unlikely but I personally am not going to risk a multi million rand claim to save a few hundred at the most thousand rand.
 
How would anyone know, if those sold in SA have no certification markings on them and look identical to those coming from EU?
Are you expected to save the packaging for your insurance in case there’s a claim one day?
How many other devices in our homes doesn’t carry certification, do you check every bulb, plug top, double adaptor, extention cable you buy, especially those you buy from the corner place which mostly stocks unknown brands, in other words direct China imports?
If Nology is selling the unit in SA then its cheaper to buy those items locally, so you won't be importing the same units that we sell.
Anything off the shelf in SA that plugs into your electrical system HAS to have been certified. If it wasn't certified then the manufacturer or distributor is liable.
 
Just playing devils advocate, I’m all for rules and regulations.
With that being said I bet if each and every person go look threw their house now, they’ll find many electrical items with no certification markings at all, many many reasons for insurance to deny a claim.

I met a guy a few years ago who’s house burned down. Insurance investigated and initially wanted to blame the electrical contractor, but the CoC was super detailed and in place.
It was found that the fire was.caused by a multiplug they had on a extension running to the TV, but eventually the claim was denied because of a light he installed himself at his braai, the install wasn’t to code and had no CoC.
 
With that being said I bet if each and every person go look threw their house now, they’ll find many electrical items with no certification markings at all, many many reasons for insurance to deny a claim.
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Just playing devils advocate, I’m all for rules and regulations.
With that being said I bet if each and every person go look threw their house now, they’ll find many electrical items with no certification markings at all, many many reasons for insurance to deny a claim.

I met a guy a few years ago who’s house burned down. Insurance investigated and initially wanted to blame the electrical contractor, but the CoC was super detailed and in place.
It was found that the fire was.caused by a multiplug they had on a extension running to the TV, but eventually the claim was denied because of a light he installed himself at his braai, the install wasn’t to code and had no CoC.
Just because an item does not have a marking on it doesn't mean its not certified.
 
Just because an item does not have a marking on it doesn't mean its not certified.


The opposite is unfortunately also true. Baofeng radios being sold with false ICASA type approval stickers by reputable places like Takealot BTW, is one example which comes to mind.
 
The opposite is unfortunately also true. Baofeng radios being sold with false ICASA type approval stickers by reputable places like Takealot BTW, is one example which comes to mind.
I hope you've reported that
 
What’s the opinion on the Shelly Duo RGBW bulbs?
Since they cost the same as the white ones, I figured I’d just get the RGBW ones for all over, just because.
Spec wise it looks like the white performance on both is similar, so any reason not to?
 
What’s the opinion on the Shelly Duo RGBW bulbs?
Since they cost the same as the white ones, I figured I’d just get the RGBW ones for all over, just because.
Spec wise it looks like the white performance on both is similar, so any reason not to?
I have both .

They're not the same when it comes to white. DUO is better for white (it's a fair amount better than some of the Tuya ones I've tried in terms of brightness)

I'm sure you know that if power is cut to them, they're 'offline' and you can't access them via the app. Unless you really want them for colour temperature or other features , I'd go with a Shelly relays to control your standard bulbs.
 
I have both .

They're not the same when it comes to white. DUO is better for white (it's a fair amount better than some of the Tuya ones I've tried in terms of brightness)

I'm sure you know that if power is cut to them, they're 'offline' and you can't access them via the app. Unless you really want them for colour temperature or other features , I'd go with a Shelly relays to control your standard bulbs.


I thought to do indoor bulbs first and then add relays to the switches later.
I have 2 switches for outdoor spotlights where I will fit relays from the start.

BTW does Shelly have something for ceiling fans?
 
I thought to do indoor bulbs first and then add relays to the switches later.

It'll be confusing, I think .

You'll open the app which could reflect the light is on - but it's actually off at the bulb.
Or it's off at the switch - and the bulb reflects offline. Routines and schedules could be complex.

BTW does Shelly have something for ceiling fans?

To change the speeds? Nope.

I'd *guess* you can put a standard Shelly 1 on/off - but it's an inductive load and I think it drops to 8A load . You'll have to ask one of the smart people if that'll work @Tinuva

1666266438736.png
 
Can’t you link the bulb and relay so they then work together as a unit?
It'll be confusing, I think .

You'll open the app which could reflect the light is on - but it's actually off at the bulb.
Or it's off at the switch - and the bulb reflects offline. Routines and schedules could be complex.



To change the speeds? Nope.

I'd *guess* you can put a standard Shelly 1 on/off - but it's an inductive load and I think it drops to 8A load . You'll have to ask one of the smart people if that'll work @Tinuva

View attachment 1405347
 
Can’t you link the bulb and relay so they then work together as a unit?
Long term the relay is better and cheaper.

You can use normal bulbs. If you want dimming, use the dimmer Shelly with dimmer lights.
 
Replaced my s55 outdoor with a ASP CBI plug. Now to make sure its CoC.

Next the 3 way Treatlife switch with a shelly and dumb switch.
 
I'm not too clued up on the Shelley products. Has anyone used a Shelley Plus 1 PM on a pool pump?
Running, the pump should draw about 3.3A,but I'm worried about startup inrush current.

My mechanical pool pump keeps losing time due to load shedding, so I want something else on there.
 
So if I walk around and replace all my non compliant sonoffs and Shelly's with new ones who's to tell what is where if they all burnt to ash?

I would have invoices for both.
 
So if I walk around and replace all my non compliant sonoffs and Shelly's with new ones who's to tell what is where if they all burnt to ash?

I would have invoices for both.
Sadly things dont really burn to ashes in most cases.

Heat would have to be exceedingly high.

Guess its a lottery ... hope the non-compliant stuff burn to ashes. What if its a flood and you claim but house non-compliant?

Chances are you won't have issues BUT ...
 
I'm not too clued up on the Shelley products. Has anyone used a Shelley Plus 1 PM on a pool pump?
Running, the pump should draw about 3.3A,but I'm worried about startup inrush current.

My mechanical pool pump keeps losing time due to load shedding, so I want something else on there.
Check maybe @alqassam can help. I know he was considering. But not sure if he actually did it.
 
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