All things Sunsynk (Deye, Inge, etc...)

FlashSA said:
Yes, an inverter needs a battery to cover dips in PV production when grid is not available - won't work without a battery.

I'd go: 8kw Inverter + 1x 5KWH battery and if you have change, install the PV/DC combiner box. Panel prices will continue to drop.

The way I look at it is that the inverter and battery help you through LS. Panels start paying you back.
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I see I can get that for around R80k with installation. I'll decide between option 1 or this LS option.
 
lkpat said:
And to add, I did upgrade and add another 5 and another battery. I now have 400kwh batteries and 11kw inverter. I do like the idea of redundancy but I'd have no trouble going back to 5 if I have to.
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400kwh? Is that correct? That's a proper sized battery bank if it is.
 
Fuma said:
Where would you start if you had R100k? Which one is cheaper to upgrade and better in the long run?

Option 1:
  • 5KW Inverter (with the intention of adding another 5k inverter in the future)
  • 6x 455W Panels
  • 1X 5kWh Battery
Option 2:
  • 8KW Inverter
  • 8x 455W Panels
  • No Battery.
I will add more panels and batteries in the future.

Edit. I think option two is not doable because I need a battery, unless things have changed?
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Option 1 between these 2, but not even sure number 2 can work due to loadshedding.

I would suggest stretching the budget by R30k and get 8kw, 10kwh, 4.4kwp. Saves long term and much more convenient along the way. But I understand that's a R30k stretch.
 
I'm installing a its 16kw heat pump, they advised this will run fine on Inverter

Will it be fine to just add a breaker in pump dB box and run both pool pump and pool heater from there on the line going to db

This line runs to a plug in the house and then to the db
 
crawler said:
I'm installing a its 16kw heat pump, they advised this will run fine on Inverter

Will it be fine to just add a breaker in pump dB box and run both pool pump and pool heater from there on the line going to db

This line runs to a plug in the house and then to the db
Click to expand...
That depends on the wiring to the pool pump. The heat pump is rated at 16.5A and your pool pump is probably around 4.5A for a total of 21A. You'd probably want 6mm² wire and a 30A breaker.
 
crawler said:
I'm installing a its 16kw heat pump, they advised this will run fine on Inverter

Will it be fine to just add a breaker in pump dB box and run both pool pump and pool heater from there on the line going to db

This line runs to a plug in the house and then to the db
Click to expand...
Does 16kw mean that it uses 16kWh i.e 16 kilowatts per hour ?
 
TedLasso said:
Does 16kw mean that it uses 16kWh i.e 16 kilowatts per hour ?
Click to expand...
Inverter pump and an average cop of 5

1kw power gives 5kw of heat energy

itssolar.co.za

Inverter vs Standard Pool Heat Pumps?

At ITS, we supply both standard and inverter type pool heat pumps. We have over a decade’s worth of experience in the design, installation and maintenance of heat pumps and decided that it was time for us to add and inverter range due to the many advantages that it holds when it comes to pool
itssolar.co.za itssolar.co.za
 
Maybe this has been asked already but I'm wondering about this behavior.

If for some reason I need a topup ( balancing and what not ) , my Deye is set to a max charge of 40A from grid and I see it starts balancing and floating at 53.77V

Now, during normal daily operation, when the batteries are being topped up solely by solar, the charge rate doesn't seem to have a cap AND I see often that the voltage exceeds that same 53.77V. Last I saw it even went to 54.08V. Noticeably when discharging, it took a lot longer for the SOC to drop and it only started dropping once the voltage dropped below 53.77V.

According to Hubble, AM2's are meant to be around the 53.77V for charge etc and the settings seem fine so its a bit weird to me.
 
Kosmik said:
Maybe this has been asked already but I'm wondering about this behavior.

If for some reason I need a topup ( balancing and what not ) , my Deye is set to a max charge of 40A from grid and I see it starts balancing and floating at 53.77V

Now, during normal daily operation, when the batteries are being topped up solely by solar, the charge rate doesn't seem to have a cap AND I see often that the voltage exceeds that same 53.77V. Last I saw it even went to 54.08V. Noticeably when discharging, it took a lot longer for the SOC to drop and it only started dropping once the voltage dropped below 53.77V.

According to Hubble, AM2's are meant to be around the 53.77V for charge etc and the settings seem fine so its a bit weird to me.
Click to expand...
Am also interested. I've seen 54v on my hubbles but did not correlate it to how it was charged. My Hubble 2 seems to not have reached 100% for a 10 days ays now (despite being on charge from grid for balancing, etc) - I really am worried/gatvol/tired of molly coddlingthese batteries

1694613192427.png
 
TedLasso said:
Am also interested. I've seen 54v on my hubbles but did not correlate it to how it was charged. My Hubble 2 seems to not have reached 100% for a 10 days ays now (despite being on charge from grid for balancing, etc) - I really am worried/gatvol/tired of molly coddlingthese batteries

View attachment 1586332
Click to expand...
Looks like you have SOC drift. Both Bats show 53V but different SOC.
 
Kosmik said:
Maybe this has been asked already but I'm wondering about this behavior.

If for some reason I need a topup ( balancing and what not ) , my Deye is set to a max charge of 40A from grid and I see it starts balancing and floating at 53.77V

Now, during normal daily operation, when the batteries are being topped up solely by solar, the charge rate doesn't seem to have a cap AND I see often that the voltage exceeds that same 53.77V. Last I saw it even went to 54.08V. Noticeably when discharging, it took a lot longer for the SOC to drop and it only started dropping once the voltage dropped below 53.77V.

According to Hubble, AM2's are meant to be around the 53.77V for charge etc and the settings seem fine so its a bit weird to me.
Click to expand...
Charge rate from solar definitely has a cap on amps, voltage will fluctuate according to battery needs.

The voltage difference is tiny, so I wouldn't worry about 54.08v vs 53.77v.

Not sure what behavior here is concerning you?
 
Fcon_Vpro said:
Charge rate from solar definitely has a cap on amps, voltage will fluctuate according to battery needs.

The voltage difference is tiny, so I wouldn't worry about 54.08v vs 53.77v.

Not sure what behavior here is concerning you?
Click to expand...
Just worried about overcharging.

Like today

1694697553458.png
 
lkpat said:
Do you have a multimeter? If yes, put it on AC V and test the voltage between earth and neutral while eskom is off.
If no multimeter, if you have one of those ellies surge arrestor plugs or multiplugs with LEDs (the red ones), how many LEDs light up when eskom is off?

I suspect your neutral earth bond is not set up and your earth leakage is a bit dicky. A better EL might be needed. They are sometimes temperamental with surge arrestors on the DB.
Click to expand...
Had an electrician here. To give me a second opinion about the indicator light and @Koosvanwyk was right there was no issues. But they did pick up the Neutral Earth bond wasn't setup and did do that quickly for me.
 
Subject: Issue with Zero Export to CT - Seeking Assistance

Hello everyone,

I recently installed an 8kW Deye inverter, equipped with 8 x 550W solar panels, and a 10.6kW lithium battery from SA Lithium. Ideally, I'd like to divert any excess solar energy to power non-essential appliances when the battery is fully charged. To achieve this, I followed the instructions to install a CT (Current Transformer) on the grid line and selected the "Zero Export to CT" option.

Now, I'm experiencing a positive power reading on the external CT, and my Load Consumption reading takes both essential and non-essential loads into account. However, during load shedding events, the non-essential appliances switch off, and the load consumption reading (house icon) drops to 0kW, even though my essentials continue to be powered by the battery.

Does anyone have a solution to this issue? Your assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.
 
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