All things Sunsynk (Deye, Inge, etc...)

Mike Hoxbig said:
It can communicate, as long as the grid stays up. The plug on non-essentials is to ensure that the keypad and meter are always in sync.

The problem is when the grid goes down (and takes the meter with it), the keypad stays up and it can go out of sync when the grid comes back...
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It didnt work for me like that. I left it for a few hours behind the inverter and it could not connect or load units.
As soon as I connected a plug point to my non-essentials db I could connect and load units.
Are you on city power?
 
Deanoblado said:
Thank you for that. I will run some more tests.
My peak load can never go above 8kw if everything is on essential, correct?
Can you explain the pass through scenario please? Let's say i have stove and washing machine on non-essential. Can my peak go above 8kw, the rest will pull from grid?
Click to expand...
Pass through simply refers to AC from the grid passing through the inverter. The 8kW SunSynk can handle up to 11.5kW if grid is available.
 
Deanoblado said:
Thank you for that. I will run some more tests.
My peak load can never go above 8kw if everything is on essential, correct?
Can you explain the pass through scenario please? Let's say i have stove and washing machine on non-essential. Can my peak go above 8kw, the rest will pull from grid?
Click to expand...

What Speedster said

When the grid is up the Inverter will allow up to 11.5kw to pass through it.

@RonSwanson, can you provide a more detailed explanation ie does the 'extra' go via the 'non-essential' route or does it apply to the essential side as well?

My understanding is that the essential side will remain constrained to your inverter max capacity (in this case 8kw). Not sure though.
 
Fcon_Vpro said:
Make sure you install a plug point on non-essentials for your prepaid keypad as it cant communicate through the inverter.
I only converted to prepaid after my solar and I had all plugs on essentials. I had to install a new plug point on non-essentials to get my prepaid keypad to connect to the meter.
Click to expand...

CoCT - I don't have this issue.
 
great information, thank you all, I did not know about the 11.5kw passthrough limit and didn't think about the 8kw limit. I now see why managing is so important and why everyone has HA and home assistant etc. It all staring to come together.

I will load test my house this weekend and see.

So, for the guys with everything on essential, what are your pain points of the 8kw limit?
 
AfricanTech said:
What Speedster said

When the grid is up the Inverter will allow up to 11.5kw to pass through it.

@RonSwanson, can you provide a more detailed explanation ie does the 'extra' go via the 'non-essential' route or does it apply to the essential side as well?

My understanding is that the essential side will remain constrained to your inverter max capacity (in this case 8kw). Not sure though.
Click to expand...
Pass through only applies when the grid is up.

When there's no grid, your load is limited to either the inverter capacity, or whatever your batteries can supply (eg 5 kW at 0.5C on a 10 kWh bank), whichever is lowest.

Non-essentials are simply removed from the load by default when the grid goes down...
 
Mike Hoxbig said:
Pass through only applies when the grid is up.

When there's no grid, your load is limited to either the inverter capacity, or whatever your batteries can supply (eg 5 kW at 0.5C on a 10 kWh bank), whichever is lowest.

Non-essentials are simply removed from the load by default when the grid goes down...
Click to expand...
ok curve ball lol...just when i think i understand it all.

are you saying my limit when there is no grid can only go up to 5kw? I will have two sunsynk batteries, 10kw total.
Please explain the c rating.
 
Deanoblado said:
ok curve ball lol...just when i think i understand it all.

are you saying my limit when there is no grid can only go up to 5kw? I will have two sunsynk batteries, 10kw total.
Please explain the c rating.
Click to expand...
If a battery is 0.5C, it means you can only draw current at half of the battery capacity. So 100Ah x 0.5 = 50A.

So at 50V, that is 2500W. You have 2, so that is 5000W.
 
Deanoblado said:
ok curve ball lol...just when i think i understand it all.

are you saying my limit when there is no grid can only go up to 5kw? I will have two sunsynk batteries, 10kw total.
Please explain the c rating.
Click to expand...
As far as I know, the Sunsynk Batteries are 1C (I hope, I have one myself!)
 
Yep, looks like the "max" is 1C. So with 2, you can max out at 10 kW

  • Standard Discharging Current – 50A
  • Max. Continuous Discharging Current – 100A (1C, 25°C ± 2°C)
 
My quote say 5.32kw battery. I know there are two types. dont know if this is the 1c version.
 
Deanoblado said:
My quote say 5.32kw battery. I know there are two types. dont know if this is the 1c version.
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To be honest, 0.5C is not really an issue with a 10kWh battery (as long as you are aware of the limitations). The battery can provide 5kW and you add to that any available PV which should be more than ample in most situations. And as long as you don't have your geysers set to go on between say 4pm and 9pm, 5kW should be sufficient for most households during the night.
 
Deanoblado said:
ok curve ball lol...just when i think i understand it all.
.
Click to expand...

I'll add to the confusion for you. You can add your geyser to non essentials, Auxiliary port or load. The auxiliary port is often talked about as having the option specifically for geysers.

There is also a smart switch on the way for the sunsynk inverters. You can then add some rules directly on the inverter to switch on or off the geyser or other devices.
 
Placed my order today but since then I've been wondering if I should add another string to maximise the tax rebate instead of adding another battery. Using Solar Forecast in Home Assistant and it seems my peak generation in winter (like today) maxes just under 2kw on the panels. Seems obvious to add another string before a battery right? Then I can run non-essentials off the extra solar during winter too.

Sunsynk 8kw
9.6kWh batteries (2x UP5000)
3.7kWp

Have roof space for another string which will give a total of 5.9kWp


6c65407573276c6ba93b41d122757621.jpg


b7b72d07ec156368afba84e1fcdbf3ec.jpg


Edit
Seems it's much of a muchness, need to calculate the ROI and see which will be worth it.
 
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Has anyone come across a situation where by you have panels and an 8kva inverter and when you have loadshedding and are producing solar your inverter is passing through about 550 - 600w ?

This is happening to me, not that I am complaining as I can run lights, internet etc but it's not how I was told it should work unless I have a battery which is on its way.

Thanks
 
chickenbeef said:
Placed my order today but since then I've been wondering if I should add another string to maximise the tax rebate instead of adding another battery. Using Solar Forecast in Home Assistant and it seems my peak generation in winter (like today) maxes just under 2kw on the panels. Seems obvious to add another string before a battery right? Then I can run non-essentials off the extra solar during winter too.

Sunsynk 8kw
9.6kWh batteries (2x UP5000)
3.7kWp

Have roof space for another string which will give a total of 5.9kWp


6c65407573276c6ba93b41d122757621.jpg


b7b72d07ec156368afba84e1fcdbf3ec.jpg


Edit
Seems it's much of a muchness, need to calculate the ROI and see which will be worth it.
Click to expand...
Max it out at 10500W, but be careful of the limits (500Vdc / 28Adc before BOOM!), get a professional (Not ChatGPT) to assist with the panel sizing calculations or study this guide: https://unboundsolar.com/blog/string-sizing-guide
 
warrenpfo said:
Has anyone come across a situation where by you have panels and an 8kva inverter and when you have loadshedding and are producing solar your inverter is passing through about 550 - 600w ?

This is happening to me, not that I am complaining as I can run lights, internet etc but it's not how I was told it should work unless I have a battery which is on its way.

Thanks
Click to expand...
Mine does the same, you only generate what you use is how I understand it. You need a battery to store the power of you want to create more demand and thus generate more
 
warrenpfo said:
Has anyone come across a situation where by you have panels and an 8kva inverter and when you have loadshedding and are producing solar your inverter is passing through about 550 - 600w ?

This is happening to me, not that I am complaining as I can run lights, internet etc but it's not how I was told it should work unless I have a battery which is on its way.

Thanks
Click to expand...
You are producing exactly relative to the demand. Even in full sun it can only produce what your system demands. Where would it go otherwise? If your battery isn't 100% charged, it goes there but when it is, there's nothing to do with it so it only produces to keep up with the demand which in your case is 500-600w. If you turn the kettle on it will produce 2800w or so to meet the 2200 w kettle and 600 odd other.
 
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