All things Sunsynk (Deye, Inge, etc...)

Renier said:
Also a note on the 13A clipping. In the right conditions you can still get your full 550W, because the voltage could go higher than 40.99V shown in the specs (for STC conditions).

See my example here:

All things Sunsynk (Deye, Inge, etc...)

Your installer will most probably use solarman to make remote config changes if needed? At least that's what the installer told my parents with their Deye. I have the Sunsynk dongle running alongside solar assistant on mine. My installer doesn't have access to solar assistant, and it's not...
mybroadband.co.za mybroadband.co.za
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Yes, it's possible, but cloud edge effect does not happen often enough to size a system in normal operation, it isn't sufficiently protracted enough to make it practically usable. Yet if you don't take it into account, it will turn out to be a very expensive lesson...
 
xrapidx said:
I frequently change my setttings - but only the work mode, and grid charge rate - my idea is to create "work-mode" templates, and depending on weather and load-shedding status, apply a relevant work mode template for the day.
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I've been waiting forever for a feature to save profiles. I'd have one for winter, summer, rain, clouds etc...
 
ViciousClone said:
This aint bad at all! x8 these bad boys and we're in business

View attachment 1524843
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Yup, those are nice. Just on panels - if you don't have any specific restrictions on physical size then you needn't worry about panel size (and number of panels). You're probably best served simply buying the cheapest per watt (assuming you stick to Tier 1 manufacturers).
 
xrapidx said:
I frequently change my setttings - but only the work mode, and grid charge rate - my idea is to create "work-mode" templates, and depending on weather and load-shedding status, apply a relevant work mode template for the day.
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I totally get the need to make adjustments. I'm fortunate in that we don't get loadshedding, so I just crank away the same each day. I do have automations on usage though (such as pool pump turning on based on solcast forecast etc).
 
Thinking 9x panels for a start, covering front, mid and back roof. That way it grabs the sun as it passes by

Point 1 - Sun hits it at 07:34
Point 2 - Sun hits it at 08:48
Point 3 - Sun hits it at 11:11

Point 1 still has sunlight, not direct anymore, but it does cover the roof with no shading.
Point 2 has clear direct sunlight now

1684238199445.png
 
ViciousClone said:
Thinking 9x panels for a start, covering front, mid and back roof. That way it grabs the sun as it passes by

Point 1 - Sun hits it at 07:34
Point 2 - Sun hits it at 08:48
Point 3 - Sun hits it at 11:11

Point 1 still has sunlight, not direct anymore, but it does cover the roof with no shading.
Point 2 has clear direct sunlight now

View attachment 1524993
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You might want to read up about string orientation a bit. First prize is to have as many as possible facing north with no shading. Only once that's been exhausted do you start looking at alternatives.
 
Speedster said:
You might want to read up about string orientation a bit. First prize is to have as many as possible facing north with no shading. Only once that's been exhausted do you start looking at alternatives.
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Ah alright, thank you for the advice :)
Well in that case, point 2 and 3 are the most north-facing positions.
The neighbor's panels are on points 2 and 3 as well.

I see why Ron mentioned the trees, they throwing some shade at the bottom of the roof now, seeing that the sun is passing by lower
 
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lkpat said:
Did you rewire it after it burned out then?

It's wired in reverse in your pic.

View attachment 1524809

View attachment 1524813
Appliance on the left (OUTput), power on the right (INput). Third wire from the right should be live from the supply, I see your multiplug on there.
It's clearly labelled on the sonoff.
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Lol. I now see why you okes think I wired it upside down. The input side which is the cables still in the sonoff goes to a plug. The adaptor was connected to the output side. The pic makes it look like it is one cable.

As to the sonoff, it's been decommissioned.
 
xrapidx said:
Check your dip switches first - I have four AM2s - two of them had the same address, battery SOC via inverter was all over the show.

Check your battery settings on the inverter - to see what the battery type is set to.

DISCLAIMER: I can only comment on what I've experienced - certainly no expert.
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Got a tech on the line, he reckons it looks ok with the current SOC and Voltage. Forcing a full charge , he can see the BMS drift so he's going to basically force it and see what oucorrs when the bats are at the full 54V
 
xrapidx said:
Check your dip switches first - I have four AM2s - two of them had the same address, battery SOC via inverter was all over the show.

Check your battery settings on the inverter - to see what the battery type is set to.

DISCLAIMER: I can only comment on what I've experienced - certainly no expert.
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Ok side note, I just checked this. Does it matter which has the can bus? Both have unique address ( 1 and 2 ) but 2 has the canbus cable. Should it not be in 1?

Seriously, could it be something as stupid a this?

How do you setup multiple batteries?

See table above and check your product manual for a more detailed explanation. You will have to set dip switch settings per battery to give them a unique address. You also have to connect the included RJ45 battery link cables into the "Battery Link" port of each battery. Ensure your master battery dip switch 1 is on, 2,3,4 is OFF. Only the master battery CAN Bus will be enabled. You can then connect the Hubble Cloudlink into the CAN port of the master battery for communications to work.

Do I have to use the communication battery link cables if i dont want to monitor or have communications?

Yes
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The only cable I see for the batteries is a yellow cat5/utp into the can port on battery 2. Nothing between them.
 
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TedLasso said:
Lol. I now see why you okes think I wired it upside down. The input side which is the cables still in the sonoff goes to a plug. The adaptor was connected to the output side. The pic makes it look like it is one cable.

As to the sonoff, it's been decommissioned.
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Rapid Deconstruction Event ......
 
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