General Photography

APoc184 said:
Has anybody here ever shot MotoX? Not the FMX thing like Nitro Circus or Red Bull X-Fighters but rather the racing including heats, qualifying, etc.

What setup would you recommend. What did you use? Any other tips would be appreciated.

I'm guessing a 400mm would be a bit overkill and that I'll mostly be shooting in the 70-200mm range.

Thank you.
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400mm on one body (or 200-400 if you have one), 70-200 on another (or a 70-200 with a 1.4/2.0x tc and then skip the 400 if you want), and a 24-70/105 on the third.
 
bwana said:
400mm on one body (or 200-400 if you have one), 70-200 on another (or a 70-200 with a 1.4/2.0x tc and then skip the 400 if you want), and a 24-70/105 on the third.
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Thanks.

I'm struggling to find a 400mm for rental. Everything is out on safari it seems. And I'm slightly worried about the lights at Loftus being a bit to dim for F4 on the 200-400mm.

Definitely taking my 24-70 and 70-200. Only taking two bodies though. So will have to swap at times. Luckily there is plenty of qualifiers and junior races on before the main event. So will have a good feel for what works by that time.
 
A wide angle on a remote with triggers could come in handy too.
 
Exciting. But I've never tried that so will give it a go later when I'm not under pressure to file and I am willing to lose everything if I fail miserably on the first attempt.
 
So no 400mm available at all.

I'm going to settle for these combos:

Nikon D7100 with 300mm F2.8 (Crop factor will technically give me a 480mm focal length.
Nikon D3s with the 70-200mm.
24-70mm will also go along and I will change it out a few times between the two bodies early in the day to see what will work best for the main event.

If I find that the 300mm is overkill due to the crop factor, I will just change the bodies.
 
Turns out that the 300mm was a complete waste... Used it for about an hour and then packed it away.

Continued shooting everything with the 70-200mm and 24-70mm.

I won't bother taking anything longer than 200mm along next time. Would be nice to take a nice wide angle along for the corners and definitely try the remote trigger thing.
 
The five simple steps to becoming a Pro…

Five simple steps.jpg
 
APoc184 said:
^ :D
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So far this morning I've managed #s 2-5.

Number 1 is going to have to be modified to Buy an expensive D-slr without your wife having any knowledge of it (my missus is still convinced my 1Dx is the same as my 1Dmk3 :whistle: )
 
bwana said:
So far this morning I've managed #s 2-5.

Number 1 is going to have to be modified to Buy an expensive D-slr without your wife having any knowledge of it (my missus is still convinced my 1Dx is the same as my 1Dmk3 :whistle: )
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In the beginning I did 1.

Now it is only 5 on occasions.

I always laugh at the mirror selfies.
 
So Christmas is around the corner and we have some very nice houses that do a lot of work with there lights. thinking of setting aside a night or 2 to go and take some photos :) can't wait
 
Just got a quick question, and it might be a stupid one but, for macro photography, is it worth investing in a macro flash ( 9k is alot for a flash ). Currently my photo's look a bit bland and dull... the colors don't really "pop" given the close proximity, hence limited lighting so would a flash fix this?
 
Any light source will, but if you have more than one make sure they have the same light temperature. Next, make sure your white balance is correct. If you're set to something low like 3200K while using a daylight balanced flash, you're going to get a cool, blueish picture. If you want the colours to pop, up the vibrance a little and maybe the saturation as well. Increasing contrast might also help.

If you're doing all of the above and you're still not happy with the results I don't think a different flash is going to help as much as learning how to post process properly. Maybe give an example of the results you're getting?
 
Oj0 said:
Any light source will, but if you have more than one make sure they have the same light temperature. Next, make sure your white balance is correct. If you're set to something low like 3200K while using a daylight balanced flash, you're going to get a cool, blueish picture. If you want the colours to pop, up the vibrance a little and maybe the saturation as well. Increasing contrast might also help.

If you're doing all of the above and you're still not happy with the results I don't think a different flash is going to help as much as learning how to post process properly. Maybe give an example of the results you're getting?
Click to expand...

Here's one i took of a fly during late afternoon ( like 2 hrs before sun down ). http://s15.postimg.org/3tqrio6p7/10801900_10155119527160104_1764873649018477934_n.jpg

You can see the leaves are almost yellowish in color, not as vibrant as I would expect.

Also to try stay in the peak of the aperture sharpness, I had to run with shutter on about 1/80 and have read that a macro flash will allow to shoot at faster shutter speeds preventing blurring from camera shake which is also quite evident in the photo.

I'll play around with the saturation, contrast and vibrance ( although I do not recall ever seeing a vibrance setting ).
 
acidrain said:
Here's one i took of a fly during late afternoon ( like 2 hrs before sun down ). http://s15.postimg.org/3tqrio6p7/10801900_10155119527160104_1764873649018477934_n.jpg

You can see the leaves are almost yellowish in color, not as vibrant as I would expect.

Also to try stay in the peak of the aperture sharpness, I had to run with shutter on about 1/80 and have read that a macro flash will allow to shoot at faster shutter speeds preventing blurring from camera shake which is also quite evident in the photo.

I'll play around with the saturation, contrast and vibrance ( although I do not recall ever seeing a vibrance setting ).
Click to expand...

There's absolutely no metadata there so I can't see what you're doing. Are you on auto white balance? Try upping it, which will remove some blue and add yellow, giving the image a warmer feel.

What ISO are you shooting at? If 100, you can up it to 400 and get a shutter speed of 1/320 with the same exposure. Also, which camera are you using? If it's something like a 350D I'm not going to say go above ISO 400, if it's a D810 I'm going to say go up to 12,800 or maybe higher.

Which program are you using for editing?
 
Oj0 said:
There's absolutely no metadata there so I can't see what you're doing. Are you on auto white balance? Try upping it, which will remove some blue and add yellow, giving the image a warmer feel.

What ISO are you shooting at? If 100, you can up it to 400 and get a shutter speed of 1/320 with the same exposure. Also, which camera are you using? If it's something like a 350D I'm not going to say go above ISO 400, if it's a D810 I'm going to say go up to 12,800 or maybe higher.

Which program are you using for editing?
Click to expand...

Details from original photo:
f/10
Exp 1/100
ISO 125
Metering mode - Pattern
White Balance: Auto

Camera: Canon 1200D; Lens Sigma 70mm EX DG Macro

No photo editing. Adobe a bit too pricey seeing as I really wouldnt know how to use it right now.

Gonna go read up on white balance, because that is all lost to me.

Edit: OK watched a video on white balance, makes alot more sense now. Seems me using auto all the time was bad.
 
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