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Question of the Day: If you were buying a TV today, which brand would you choose?
Geyser device
- Thread starter Mike Hoxblack
- Start date
Nerfherder
Honorary Master
You might not see it... but does not mean its not.
Sinbad
Honorary Master
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I seem to recall an outbreak at a hospital in joburg in the last few years
That is why I said "unless someone has other info..." - which clearly you don't but still saw the need to reply.
Geysers are not the only source (if it is a source at all in chlorine treated water).
"The largest and most common source of Legionnaires' disease outbreaks are cooling towers (heat rejection equipment used in air conditioning and industrial cooling water systems) primarily because of the risk for widespread circulation."
mmacleod
Well-Known Member
Most tap water in Canada is treated with chlorine as well yet the studies still show legionnaires growing in geysers, so clearly chlorination does not seem to be a complete solution here.
Maybe our chlorine is better but I doubt it.
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Keep in mind that bacteria, fungi, etc. can grow in the presence of chlorine. The growth of anything is dependent on how hospitable an environment is.
A geyser with ideal growing temperature, water that doesn't flow at a high rate (eg. pipes have high flow rates) and generally low levels of chlorine are suitable for some organisms to grow in.
A geyser with ideal growing temperature, water that doesn't flow at a high rate (eg. pipes have high flow rates) and generally low levels of chlorine are suitable for some organisms to grow in.
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DollyAAAA
Well-Known Member
Heating water also gets rid of the chlorine. So your geyser may be a very nice place for them nasties to thrive.
How so?
I know bleach is deactivated by heat, not sure about chlorine.
That said, chlorine does dissipate quite rapidly once it leaves the water source. More significantly it dissipates rapidly as time progresses.
That said, chlorine does dissipate quite rapidly once it leaves the water source. More significantly it dissipates rapidly as time progresses.
Nerfherder
Honorary Master
Are your pipes sterile ? I doubt it.
Being treated with chlorine kills some of the germs but not all. Leave some of that water in a warm dark tank you are likely to find some nice things growing.
Back a little closer to the "device" of the OP.
Looking in my DB I saw something I do not understand. From the double pole geyser breaker, the live first go into a down pipe. Then a live comes out of that pipe and go into a pipe up to the ceiling and geyser. Into the pipe going down, there is also a thin neutral, from the E/L neutral bar and a thin earth. The neutral from the geyser breaker, go directly to the pipe going up to the geyser. There is also an earth going up. There are no other wires in these two pipes. I have made a drawing to describe this:
So why is the live first going down? Can it be a ripple controller somewhere? How do I find out what it is?
Looking in my DB I saw something I do not understand. From the double pole geyser breaker, the live first go into a down pipe. Then a live comes out of that pipe and go into a pipe up to the ceiling and geyser. Into the pipe going down, there is also a thin neutral, from the E/L neutral bar and a thin earth. The neutral from the geyser breaker, go directly to the pipe going up to the geyser. There is also an earth going up. There are no other wires in these two pipes. I have made a drawing to describe this:
So why is the live first going down? Can it be a ripple controller somewhere? How do I find out what it is?
mmacleod
Well-Known Member
At some places they fit the ripple where prepaid meter is to prevent tampering
My installation is old. I have bought it 20+ years ago, so that must be from before then. I do not have prepaid. In the meter box, which is outside in the wall, there is only the meter and 2 surge protectors. Except if it is behind the hardboard backing.
I would not mind if there is a ripple controller, I would just like to know. If it is that, it is not operational though, or Pretoria / Tshwane do not use it anymore because the geyserwise which is behind it, has never been off while we have power.
I would not mind if there is a ripple controller, I would just like to know. If it is that, it is not operational though, or Pretoria / Tshwane do not use it anymore because the geyserwise which is behind it, has never been off while we have power.
Geoff.D
Honorary Master
John,
That is a bit messy but it is the same as I have in my place, which is also about the same age. I do not know if Tshwane ever installed Ripple relays. Next to the back door outside there is a box on the wall with nothing in it. Two wires go into and out of the box in the same conduit . (i.e. simply looped back on themselves, suggesting that a ripple relay was never installed).
After re-arranging the power in my place, I cleaned up the neutral mess ( which was the same as in your sketch, because one of the problems was unexplained E/L trips.
I do not feed the geyser via the E/L breaker.
The geyser is connected to live before the E/L unit and is connected to the non-E/L neutral bar which I provided as extra.
So I have an isolator in the main board feeding the geyser, the live and neutral then loop through the "ripple relay box", come back to the main box and then cross over to the conduit leading to the geyser in the roof, where I installed another isolator ( double pole) before the geyser.
Are the two Neutral bars connected together directly or is it via the E/L breaker?
I changed the wiring to conform to what is required for the geyser, in line with the breakers and isolators. (The wiring used originally was the same gauge normally used for lighting circuits! ( now you know why I have very little time for so called electricians with papers.)
That is a bit messy but it is the same as I have in my place, which is also about the same age. I do not know if Tshwane ever installed Ripple relays. Next to the back door outside there is a box on the wall with nothing in it. Two wires go into and out of the box in the same conduit . (i.e. simply looped back on themselves, suggesting that a ripple relay was never installed).
After re-arranging the power in my place, I cleaned up the neutral mess ( which was the same as in your sketch, because one of the problems was unexplained E/L trips.
I do not feed the geyser via the E/L breaker.
The geyser is connected to live before the E/L unit and is connected to the non-E/L neutral bar which I provided as extra.
So I have an isolator in the main board feeding the geyser, the live and neutral then loop through the "ripple relay box", come back to the main box and then cross over to the conduit leading to the geyser in the roof, where I installed another isolator ( double pole) before the geyser.
Are the two Neutral bars connected together directly or is it via the E/L breaker?
I changed the wiring to conform to what is required for the geyser, in line with the breakers and isolators. (The wiring used originally was the same gauge normally used for lighting circuits! ( now you know why I have very little time for so called electricians with papers.)
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Once upon a time the electricity meter was installed there, when it was moved to the curb you are left with these empty boxes. The days when there was not fence and the meter reader entered the property. Still a few houses that have this setup.
My meter is still there, but I do have a fence these days, so I email my meter readings in every month.
Geoff.D
Honorary Master
Nope, not the one I have on the outside of my home. There was never anything installed in it. The back plane is a simple piece of hardboard, with no holes in it at all. All there is now is the looped Live and Neutral wires coming the main board.
Since you have already made changes, you may as well run everything from the EL (Then you can get rid of an extra neutral bar
)Most newer houses don't provide power that doesn't go through a residual current device.
Personally changed my place to that same format and found quite a few faults which I am happy I fixed (Neutral to ground fault, and such things)
Geoff.D
Honorary Master
Since you have already made changes, you may as well run everything from the EL (Then you can get rid of an extra neutral bar
Most newer houses don't provide power that doesn't go through a residual current device.
Personally changed my place to that same format and found quite a few faults which I am happy I fixed (Neutral to ground fault, and such things)
Nope. like it the way it is --- very useful to have a power supply available that is NOT E/L protected ------but still "complies" with them "rules and regulations".