Hardware Bargains - Open Thine Wallet

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WAslayer said:
You also need a Logitech Mx keys keyboard and mx3 mouse with their unify technology to use it across both laptops..
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I've got one of these I'm adding in:
Corsair K63 keyboard and lapboard combo (I use it for Xbox occasionally) and a Corsair Dark Core RGB Pro SE.
I wonder if Corsar has any utilities for this kind of thing.
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Barbarian Conan said:
I don't like it that much. You have to manually switch, do you not? It's not like Synergy or Mouse Without Borders where you just move your mouse to the edge and it transfers to the new PC.
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I'm going to test these - although I need macOS and Linux support (and I see a lot of these do Windows and macOS but no Linux).

Looks like Barrier does all 3 OS's - so I may give that a go (unless anyone has any better suggestion).
 
Fox1 said:
www.firstshop.co.za

Search: 1659 results found for "ASUS"

A First Technology Group company, trusted by South African's for over 40 years. First Shop is our online computer store for businesses and consumers. Buy laptops for sale, printers, tablets, antivirus, software and so much more. Every Day Low Price Match Guarantee. Online chat available or call...
www.firstshop.co.za www.firstshop.co.za

ASUS TUF Gaming 550B 80 Plus Bronze 550W Power Supply R665​

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Tier A?
 
Barbarian Conan said:
I don't like it that much. You have to manually switch, do you not? It's not like Synergy or Mouse Without Borders where you just move your mouse to the edge and it transfers to the new PC.
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Yes but, Linux support is flaky with these kind of applications.. last I worked with these, only synergy worked with Linux and it was a massive schlep to get working..

A press of a button to switch is hardly the end of the world, really.. I am also in the unique situation where, the work VPN does not allow routing through my local network, so I cannot use these applications between my work laptop and desktop and definitely not over the work VPN.. this is where the Logitech unify is again useful..
 
nelis said:
Why pas then. It's not like tier B makes it a bad product in any way.
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Tier A and Tier S is the preferred tiers if you actually don't want to be surprised by the PSU in the long run and use. Sure B, C and D might work, might give you years until they blowup in your pc taking it or parts with it, the ups, plugs or whatever was connected with it. You will do this exercise once and then like getting a decent motherboard you will also get a better psu instead of going cheaper to save. Of course I'm not saying Tier B will blow up... but its just one of those things you may consider going A.

(curious) How much of the Tier List (LTT) have you looked into?
 
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Good deal on cat 7 cable! From evetech.
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Herr der Verboten said:
Tier A and Tier S is the preferred tiers if you actually don't want to be surprised by the PSU in the long run and use. Sure B, C and D might work, might give you years until they blowup in your pc taking it or parts with it, the ups, plugs or whatever was connected with it. You will do this exercise once and then like getting a decent motherboard you will also get a better psu instead of going cheaper to save. Of course I'm not saying Tier B will blow up... but its just one of those things you may consider going A.

(curious) How much of the Tier List (LTT) have you looked into?
Click to expand...

Anyway the 4 power supplies I bought is tier A anyway
 
Herr der Verboten said:
Tier A and Tier S is the preferred tiers if you actually don't want to be surprised by the PSU in the long run and use. Sure B, C and D might work, might give you years until they blowup in your pc taking it or parts with it, the ups, plugs or whatever was connected with it. You will do this exercise once and then like getting a decent motherboard you will also get a better psu instead of going cheaper to save. Of course I'm not saying Tier B will blow up... but its just one of those things you may consider going A.

(curious) How much of the Tier List (LTT) have you looked into?
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Never heard of tier rating for PSU, how does it relate to 80 Plus?
What tier is a 80 Plus Platinum PSU?
 
Herr der Verboten said:
Tier A and Tier S is the preferred tiers if you actually don't want to be surprised by the PSU in the long run and use. Sure B, C and D might work, might give you years until they blowup in your pc taking it or parts with it, the ups, plugs or whatever was connected with it. You will do this exercise once and then like getting a decent motherboard you will also get a better psu instead of going cheaper to save. Of course I'm not saying Tier B will blow up... but its just one of those things you may consider going A.

(curious) How much of the Tier List (LTT) have you looked into?
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Damn you, I am now getting my wootware order amended (but actually thank you)

I went to go look at these lists and the Antec Atom that I ordered is d-tier it seems.

Not worth saving a few bucks on a PSU to run 30K worth of components.

Swopping out for EVGA Supernova GT or Super Flower Leadex III Gold, whichever they have stock of.
 
Barbarian Conan said:
I don't like it that much. You have to manually switch, do you not? It's not like Synergy or Mouse Without Borders where you just move your mouse to the edge and it transfers to the new PC.
Click to expand...
No Need to press the button. It jumps across when you move to the edge.
 
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