Home Automation - Smartkit

feo said:
I used a Sonoff SV and had to pop off the resistors to make it dry contact. I know almost nothing about electrical engineering but I wouldn't put any voltage through it, it's supposed to just bridge COM and Trig to open the gate.
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Thanks. My only hassle against using a SV is that I would need to install a outdoor access point for the WiFi signal reach the gate where I would install the SV.

For the Sonoff basic route I would install it next to the gate monitor/intercom inside the house (with great WiFi coverage) which only has 220v terminal block (that the intercom is connected to) and the trigger wire & old video/audio wires for the gate hidden behind the intercom, I did find this video to mod the basic for dry contact:
and may attempt it this route when I have time
 
calypso said:
I just ping my living room TV every 30 seconds so as to not turn off those lights while I'm watching TV. You could do the same with a sonoff and should the binary sensor change from On to Off then shoot you a notification.
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Why would the lights turn off? Surely just stopping that from happening in the first place is the better solution?
 
joshsparkie said:
Thanks. My only hassle against using a SV is that I would need to install a outdoor access point for the WiFi signal reach the gate where I would install the SV.

For the Sonoff basic route I would install it next to the gate monitor/intercom inside the house (with great WiFi coverage) which only has 220v terminal block (that the intercom is connected to) and the trigger wire & old video/audio wires for the gate hidden behind the intercom, I did find this video to mod the basic for dry contact:
and may attempt it this route when I have time
Click to expand...

I also had a WiFi issue but decided to get a UniFi Nano HD AP and it's a beast. I'm pretty sure the AC LITE would've been fine if I positioned it right.

For the garage door and gate motor I would only use the low voltage SV modules.
 
calypso said:
Because no motion in the living room while I am watching TV.
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So down the rabbit hole we go. Put a sonoff basic on TV plug. Then a routine that when it is on the light sensor should be disabled. Never read previous posts. But this is why I think systems like control4 could be better. Who knows.
 
I was just describing the one "sign of life" sensor i use. Its just an example of what could be used as a load shedding sensor. (By pinging something thats always on)
 
calypso said:
I was just describing the one "sign of life" sensor i use. Its just an example of what could be used as a load shedding sensor. (By pinging something thats always on)
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Yes yes I got that.

It just seemed crazy to me to have so many steps in place when the obvious thing would be not to use motion sensing in a location where it has a detrimental effect.

Over engineering basically.

Then rather have a binary motion setup upon entry of room instead of a constant detection.
 
feo said:
I also had a WiFi issue but decided to get a UniFi Nano HD AP and it's a beast. I'm pretty sure the AC LITE would've been fine if I positioned it right.

For the garage door and gate motor I would only use the low voltage SV modules.
Click to expand...

I am so close to pulling the trigger on Ubiquity wifi aps. Have 40+ devices on my network at the moment and it suffers.
 
Yeah my wifi was working ok...until it wasn't. Nothing I tried fixed it. Chucked it all into the bin and installed a Unifi AC LR. Now its literally an issue in the past, everything on wifi just work.
 
joshsparkie said:
Anyone know if a Centurion D5-Evo can handle 220-240V on the trigger terminal? Thinking of using the Sonoff basic in Inching mode on the trigger wire.

I have seen the post where a Sonoff SV can be used with the D5-Evo, but have a spare Sonoff basic lying around.
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You can use a basic but you need to isolate the circuit on it, depending on the model it works differently. You need to cut some tracks to prevent it sending through power,
 
Tinuva said:
Yeah my wifi was working ok...until it wasn't. Nothing I tried fixed it. Chucked it all into the bin and installed a Unifi AC LR. Now its literally an issue in the past, everything on wifi just work.
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Only one? What kind of square meterage for you cover?
 
Tinuva said:
Small house, like size of a flat. 85sqm but the garage is seperate building so it reaches uch further
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Okay so my logic of needing two still seems a safer bet.

Maybe I should just buy one and test and see how far it goes.

Used the older models a lot in offices, but then dry wall with open ceilings is a different beast.
 
SauRoNZA said:
Okay so my logic of needing two still seems a safer bet.

Maybe I should just buy one and test and see how far it goes.

Used the older models a lot in offices, but then dry wall with open ceilings is a different beast.
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Where would you buy them from?

And which ones are you looking into?

I have a 300 m^2 house with lots of walls so I probably need two or three hardwired to one another.
 
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