Home Automation - Smartkit

Does anyone have a Sonoff S55 waterproof socket? Watching a video online, it doesn't look like you can close it with a plug online.

Trying to find a clever way from preventing my pressure pump from emptying the tank if there's a leak or valve that doesn't close properly.
 
rph72 said:
16A, for a geyser it should be at least 20A?
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This is the proverbial dilemma.
Electrical geysers have different capacities, for example:
Kwikot's 10 litre over/under basin geyser @ 6.5 amps current are wired to a 10 or even 15 Amp circuit breaker, (15 are std in Db boards)
Kwikot's 100/150 litre geyser @ 15 amp current are wired to an 20 Amp circuit breaker.
Kwikot's highest 200 litre capacity geyser @ 17.4 amp current are wired to an 20 Amp circuit breaker.

ECASA would need to advise given the smaller capacity electrical geysers on the market, as a more common 100/150 litre geyser with 2.5/3 kW element draws current of 15 amps.

The less common and largest 200 litre, equipped with a 4kW element - draws current of 17.4 amps @ 230volts.
 
xrapidx said:
Does anyone have a Sonoff S55 waterproof socket? Watching a video online, it doesn't look like you can close it with a plug online.

Trying to find a clever way from preventing my pressure pump from emptying the tank if there's a leak or valve that doesn't close properly.
Click to expand...

I have two, and yes, you cannot close the cover with a plug in the socket...
 
Awesum said:
The link you posted says its 25A, but the image shows C curve, 80A, 10kA.
I wouldn't want to remotely switch on a tripped MCB without 1st checking why it tripped.
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Thats a real stock image though.

In the QA it says 25A.

As for turning it on remotely after tripping, that is absolutely not my goal. I only want to turn it on/off remotely on schedule or other inputs. I hope that if it actually trips that it wouldn't allow you to turn on remotely.

I am sure you can put it after an actual breaker of the same A.
Although what would the correct method be. Breaker before or after this.
 
Tinuva said:
Thats a real stock image though.

In the QA it says 25A.

As for turning it on remotely after tripping, that is absolutely not my goal. I only want to turn it on/off remotely on schedule or other inputs. I hope that if it actually trips that it wouldn't allow you to turn on remotely.

I am sure you can put it after an actual breaker of the same A.
Although what would the correct method be. Breaker before or after this.
Click to expand...
I would install this after the main breaker.
 
Can someone point me to a dummy's guide to setup PIA on my paradox alarm?

The wiki is a bit complicated for me.
 
Really easy actually.

Install the PAI using hacs

Put your ip150 IP

IP connection password is paradox and password is 0000

Lastly add the mqtt details from your broker. And that's it
 
SunilK said:
For a cheaper solution I have used "KTNNKG AC85-260V 30A 3000W High Power WIFI Smart Switch" on my geyser. It connects to eWelink app, and have since integrated to Home Assistant and works perfectly.
Click to expand...
How'd you get the Home Assistant integration going? Could you share a link or two?
 
rph72 said:
9beccf1f66a58a79dfff90321384e096.jpg
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Why are there three Lives? When it’s only a 2-gang?
 
rph72 said:
Average R306.33 per unit.
864b116bec7fb771742c22ba6f7da3e4.jpg


Can get them from Takealot as well.
00e1245c602cd26154298a3f4589ead0.jpg
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Hardly seems like any price difference between the 1-gang and 2-gang.

If I were you I would consider sending the 1-gangs back and using a 2-gang everywhere and then you can put any function you like on the blank button.
 
SunilK said:
For a cheaper solution I have used "KTNNKG AC85-260V 30A 3000W High Power WIFI Smart Switch" on my geyser. It connects to eWelink app, and have since integrated to Home Assistant and works perfectly.
Click to expand...
How did I miss this, this is way cheaper actually!
 
Anyone know if it's possible to report back the remaining time when using Tasmota and PulseTime?

EDIT: to MQTT
 
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