MyBB Motorcycle Owners Thread

Status
Not open for further replies.
Bought the Castrol Chain Lube Racing 400ml and a plastic brush. Was about R120.00

Popped bike onto center stand, in neutral, using warm water and a few drops of Sunlight dishwashing liquid.
Turn the rear wheel while brushing the chain and sprocket.

Let it run in 1st gear, while using a sponge to remove access grid and water. Cleaning the inside of the sprocket was tricky, switched the bike off for that part.

The wax spray was so easy to apply and I used a cloth to remove the access.

Thanks again for the tips.

IMG_20180428_141056.jpg

IMG_20180428_155339.jpg
 
Last edited:
redarrow said:
So to follow up, here's my Vespa FPV.. :p

Sound quality is a bit lousy, don't have my usual external mic plugged in cos that's in my motocross helmet and I'll be darned if I'm gonna wear a motocross helmet on a Vespa. :D
Click to expand...

A Spare Wheel?! I lol'ed. Cool video dude.

People were thinking, why is this guy doing a service at the garage. :D
 
I wouldn't clean my chain with the motor running in gear - just too easy to lose a finger in the process - friend of mine lost the tip of a finger doing similar
 
simm_card said:
A Spare Wheel?! I lol'ed. Cool video dude.

People were thinking, why is this guy doing a service at the garage. :D
Click to expand...
Heh thanks, yea spare wheel is one of the defining characteristics of old Vespas.. It's quite well designed too, with a single swing arm the wheel pretty much removes like a cars, can swap it out in like 2 minutes. :)
 
simm_card said:
Bought the Castrol Chain Lube Racing 400ml and a plastic brush. Was about R120.00

Popped bike onto center stand, in neutral, using warm water and a few drops of Sunlight dishwashing liquid.
Turn the rear wheel while brushing the chain and sprocket.

Let it run in 1st gear, while using a sponge to remove access grid and water. Cleaning the inside of the sprocket was tricky, switched the bike off for that part.

The wax spray was so easy to apply and I used a cloth to remove the access.

Thanks again for the tips.

View attachment 517719

View attachment 517721
Click to expand...

Sunlight contains ammonia right?

That might have just eaten your o-rings....

If you were going to ignore my advice and still felt the need to clean it...well then buy the proper chain cleaner for the job.

And as above cleaning it with a running engine is really not being very clever.
 
Last edited:
SauRoNZA said:
Sunlight contains ammonia right?

That might have just eaten your o-rings....

If you were going to ignore my advice and still felt the need to clean it...well then buy the proper chain cleaner for the job.

And as above cleaning it with a running engine is really not being very clever.
Click to expand...

+1 & I'll add to that - you didn't even do a decent job of cleaning it! All that effort for nought. Also - no point applying chain wax to the outside of the links plates! :whistle: Apply to the inside.

I have always used Fluid Film https://www.fluid-film.com/ - was the GP distributor for many years, so used the product I sold. Absolutely brilliant at both cleaning & as a lube. Track bike chains lasted 20k & road bike 35k km's. MX & Enduro bike chains were hosed off with water & then soaked in Fluid Film before being brushed off.
 
Trompie67 said:
. Also - no point applying chain wax to the outside of the links plates! :whistle: Apply to the inside.
Click to expand...

Oh hell I didn’t even notice that and now realise I didn’t specify it in my instructions.

Simply assumed people would know it would go on the inside.
 
SauRoNZA said:
Oh hell I didn’t even notice that and now realise I didn’t specify it in my instructions.

Simply assumed people would know it would go on the inside.
Click to expand...

No stress - Unfortunately common sense is not so common anymore.
 
Thanks for the advice guys.

I cleaned it again. Used proper chain cleaner, didn't run it in gear, had it in manual while turning the rear wheel, rode around to warm up the chain, then sprayed from the rear to get the wax inside the links.
 
Started sanding and painting my KLR plastics and I am really impressed with the Rustoleum 2-in-1 primer/paint I used. I got the front mudguard and two rear side panels done with one can with a bit to spare.


Freshly painted on the top, and the old, faded plastics bottom:

1f84808818f33a880332a4674d96736e.jpg
 
GhostSixFour said:
Damn that looks great!
Click to expand...

Thanks! I didn't bother to sand it down to a totally smooth finish as the rattlecan paint doesn't stick too well then. I sanded all the panels with 120 grit sandpaper and then flatted it with 320 grit water paper. I was going to work up to 1200 grit but then decided against it as it would have made the paint not adhere properly. I gave all the parts three coats, and there are places here and there where it isn't 100% smooth but it's not going to bother anyone unless you come up close and scrutinise the work done.

I also decided to not put a clear coat on afterwards as I want to be able to sand down any scuffs and touch it up with ease, being a dual purpose bike and all. The can says it should be fully cured in about a week, so next weekend I will be doing the rest of the plastics and replacing the ones I have done so far.

Really impressed with the results, more so considering it was done using a rattlecan (and the fact that my paint skillz are horrid)
 
PhireSide said:
Thanks! I didn't bother to sand it down to a totally smooth finish as the rattlecan paint doesn't stick too well then. I sanded all the panels with 120 grit sandpaper and then flatted it with 320 grit water paper. I was going to work up to 1200 grit but then decided against it as it would have made the paint not adhere properly. I gave all the parts three coats, and there are places here and there where it isn't 100% smooth but it's not going to bother anyone unless you come up close and scrutinise the work done.

I also decided to not put a clear coat on afterwards as I want to be able to sand down any scuffs and touch it up with ease, being a dual purpose bike and all. The can says it should be fully cured in about a week, so next weekend I will be doing the rest of the plastics and replacing the ones I have done so far.

Really impressed with the results, more so considering it was done using a rattlecan (and the fact that my paint skillz are horrid)
Click to expand...

I've been considering using Plastidip to coat the panels on my bike with hi-vis yellow. Figuring it'll give some protection and I can peel it off should I feel like it.

Your results might just push me over the edge to get going on that. Really looks awesome!
 
GhostSixFour said:
I've been considering using Plastidip to coat the panels on my bike with hi-vis yellow. Figuring it'll give some protection and I can peel it off should I feel like it.

Your results might just push me over the edge to get going on that. Really looks awesome!
Click to expand...

You won't need to peel it off, it does that all on its own. Unlike a car, most bikes have lots of angles and/or curves in a very small space and invariably it just doesn't work as well. And depending on where it gets serviced the bike wash at the end also tends to lift up the coating (you're not supposed to use any vaguely high pressure washer with this stuff).
 
Archer said:
You won't need to peel it off, it does that all on its own. Unlike a car, most bikes have lots of angles and/or curves in a very small space and invariably it just doesn't work as well. And depending on where it gets serviced the bike wash at the end also tends to lift up the coating (you're not supposed to use any vaguely high pressure washer with this stuff).
Click to expand...

Blegh. So then the dream of hi-vis yellow paint, stays a dream for now. :(
 
After my third quickshifter replaced under warranty today my bike finally seems to be working like it was always meant to in the gearbox department.

What always required an abusive husband approach now needs nothing but a light touch and a fluffy cloud action.

Difference is this time they also replaced the wiring harness to the bloody thing after finding the resistance out of whack. I don’t know if they didn’t test it before or if it didn’t put up a red flag but I now suspect that was the underlying problem all along it just took its time to kill the QS every time.

But now I’m happier than a Nazi pig in sauerkraut.

I just hope it lasts...
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top
Sign up to the MyBroadband newsletter
X