Smart light switches

Yeah, I should remove that part of the comment, was only temporary for testing
Enjoy its a real PITA to pull neutrals. Done 2 of 9, another 7 to go


Alternatively

Use shelly 1L, Dimmer 2 without neutral. Personally prefer switches. Qualitel prices onbeskof at the moment. Hanging on until they have a sale.
 
Bought a 4 pack of 3 - way switches. Smart Life app. Requires neutral.


But only need one instead of 2 as I assumed. Happy to sell 2 of them, keeping one as a spare.

c1c832cae49c5ac968f4605eb5a6ddca.jpg
53c382af4687d30d966afdde90361753.jpg
 
Enjoy its a real PITA to pull neutrals. Done 2 of 9, another 7 to go


Alternatively

Use shelly 1L, Dimmer 2 without neutral. Personally prefer switches. Qualitel prices onbeskof at the moment. Hanging on until they have a sale.
Just seen this video, a way of hacking the lack of Neutral, not sure if is complaint, but looks like it could work!

 
Just seen this video, a way of hacking the lack of Neutral, not sure if is complaint, but looks like it could work!

I want a smart light switch to avoid smart bulbs. Will turn out to be expensive in long run and limits choice in lights.

With smart light switch I can put in any light bulb. Even change the light fittings eg fancy chandelier.
 
I want a smart light switch to avoid smart bulbs. Will turn out to be expensive in long run and limits choice in lights.

With smart light switch I can put in any light bulb. Even change the light fittings eg fancy chandelier.
Fair enough, it was just a thought. I suppose you could always connect a smart breaker at the light, then you could use any fitting or bulb?
 
Fair enough, it was just a thought. I suppose you could always connect a smart breaker at the light, then you could use any fitting or bulb?
That would work and probably an option many would like.

I considered the option of a smart breaker, but my preference is still a smart light switch. I am not a Shelly or Sonoff fan but its a preference issue, for me at least.
 
That would work and probably an option many would like.

I considered the option of a smart breaker, but my preference is still a smart light switch. I am not a Shelly or Sonoff fan but its a preference issue, for me at least.
I was thinking of using the WiFi switch to control the breaker, anyone doing that?
Shocking pictorial representation below, but may explain what I mean.
DB7363FF-0CE8-4FE7-944E-4EE3D746C343.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • 49720037-14FA-4848-B11F-36BBC62C4054.jpeg
    49720037-14FA-4848-B11F-36BBC62C4054.jpeg
    183.5 KB · Views: 44
Guys ,
How hard is it to pull a neutral wire to your switches and is it pulled from the DB board or just the junction box in the roof? I still have the old red cloth coated wires, think it's pretty old.

Thanks
 
It depends on the way the house was done. In our house, all cabling is in conduit. The sparky attached a new live and neutral to the old live going to the light, right at the switch. So using the old live as a draw wire. He did all my lights in a few hours. Charged me R180 a point. While he was there he also properly reattached or replaced old light fittings where required
 
Guys ,
How hard is it to pull a neutral wire to your switches and is it pulled from the DB board or just the junction box in the roof? I still have the old red cloth coated wires, think it's pretty old.

Thanks
The house will have neutral, to the plugs.

Its light switches that normally have no neutral as the neutral at the light fixture not in the switch.

So its just pulling neutral from a junction box/light fixture to the light switch.

But will double check with guy helping me pull neutrals.

In my case, its a real PITA as I have conduits with 90° angles and cables from other switches etc. Plus firewalls in the roof!
 
The house will have neutral, to the plugs.

Its light switches that normally have no neutral as the neutral at the light fixture not in the switch.

So its just pulling neutral from a junction box/light fixture to the light switch.

But will double check with guy helping me pull neutrals.

In my case, its a real PITA as I have conduits with 90° angles and cables from other switches etc. Plus firewalls in the roof!
Checked and link to neutral in roof.
 
Installed 3 way switch. Can control it manually and via wifi and only need to use one switch.

Bought a 4 pack, so if anybody wants to buy one, pop me a PM.

Integrates into Smart Life app and Google Home.

Happy with it thus far. Just tight fit into the box as I had some old night light switch I wont bother using. And its a bulky switch. Button is huge.
d7835ef1cedb20fe70c039b636e657c6.jpg
e0e435ebcd7c536455ecf4baa93e0fee.jpg
 
Last edited:
Hi guys,

I hope this message finds you all well, especially during this global pandemic.

I stumbled upon this thread when looking for possible smart solutions or smart light switches for the household, my family stays in. I am trying to convince my parents to change some of the light switches in the apartment to smart ones. The apartment is owned by us, and it was renovated in 2010. I already have a smart lightbulb installed on our main lounge ceiling fan. It is so beneficial as the cable to turn off/on the light while the fan is on/off is broken. We can now use the fan without the light on now! Yay!

I am using the Google Assistant and the Smart Life app to smart the household at the moment.

I don't want an expensive solution, as in the future, we may sell the apartment or rent it out, so it may not be worth it to fully smart the place. Any suggestions?

I opened our light switches and found that there is a black neutral wire, a red live wire and a bare copper earth wire. So a smart light switch is possible. But are my assumptions correct? I don't have a multimeter at the moment. But any suggestions or advice from those who smart automated their entire homes or are busy with it? Which stuff should I buy or not to buy or should look out for? Please kindly advise.

I look forward to your response.

Many thanks in advance and as always stay safe, especially during this global pandemic.WhatsApp Image 2020-11-17 at 22.11.15 (2).jpegWhatsApp Image 2020-11-17 at 22.11.15 (1).jpegWhatsApp Image 2020-11-17 at 22.11.15.jpeg

Kind regards,
plasma-123_fire
 
Might not be neutral. Thought so too at my place

Its probably earth, live in power to switch and live out power to light. But could be.

But best to check with an electrometer. (Edit multimeter)
 
Last edited:
Thanks for your replies everyone.
So it could be a "live-out", but wouldn't it mean that there would be another red cable? Like from what I learnt at school, black is neutral, red is live and bare copper is earth. Unless there is new standards that messed up everything. How does one check on a multimeter? Thank you.
 
Thanks for your replies everyone.
So it could be a "live-out", but wouldn't it mean that there would be another red cable? Like from what I learnt at school, black is neutral, red is live and bare copper is earth. Unless there is new standards that messed up everything. How does one check on a multimeter? Thank you.
With light switches no standard for live wire colours.

But connect a switch and see. I did and only when it didnt work did I realise neutral is actually live.

Testing not sure as a buddy checked wires and pulled wires. Sure someone here knows.
 
Thanks. Tells me that all the switches probably do require a neutral. So everyone installing them have or installed neutrals.

I believe I have, meaning it should be a straight in and out swop. If not, .

I'll try out one switch in case no neutral but looking for one that has a switch still. Not a train smash since lights on or not.

Update : My handyman confirmed. Light switch (assume plural) have neutral.
You're a lucky man
 
You're a lucky man
Nope he didnt know what he was doing. Turned out no neutrals.

Thus if you bother to read everything you'll see I have pulled and still need to pull 7 neutral wires.

My handyman is an idiot. Luckily guys on forum spotted it.
 
Thanks for your replies everyone.
So it could be a "live-out", but wouldn't it mean that there would be another red cable? Like from what I learnt at school, black is neutral, red is live and bare copper is earth. Unless there is new standards that messed up everything. How does one check on a multimeter? Thank you.
Easiest is to measure live, if you measure the live wire coming into the switch and the supposed neutral you will measure 220 VAC (round about there give or take a bit)

Safest way, switch of main power, leave earth leakage on, measure continuity between the neutral and earth, it should be very low
 
Top
Sign up to the MyBroadband newsletter
X