Someone gave xrapidx a 40D

Quick question - when I look through the view finder, there's a tiny blur at one point - is this dust on the sensor, or something else? I can't see it when I take a photo.
Probably something on the eyepiece, focusing screen or mirror.
 
Probably something on the eyepiece, focusing screen or mirror.

Its barely noticeable - but irratates me because I know its there. Cleaned the eye piece, so it rules that out.

How do you clean the other two? Or is it best just to leave it?
 
Its barely noticeable - but irratates me because I know its there. Cleaned the eye piece, so it rules that out.

How do you clean the other two? Or is it best just to leave it?
Take then lens off and look at the mirror. IIRC you can remove the focusing screen on the 40D so probably the 50D too? RTM. :)
 
Quick question - when I look through the view finder, there's a tiny blur at one point - is this dust on the sensor, or something else? I can't see it when I take a photo.

Probably on the focus screen. It is removable, but it can be a little tricky.
 
Thanks - to new at this to do it myself - I'll probably wait for the sensor to get dusty and then have it done somewhere :)
 
Thanks - to new at this to do it myself - I'll probably wait for the sensor to get dusty and then have it done somewhere :)
Might take quite long - I've found the sensor shaker to be pretty effective at getting rid of the dust ;)
 
Might take quite long - I've found the sensor shaker to be pretty effective at getting rid of the dust ;)
Not long enough in my case. Both my 400Ds benefited greatly from a quick pass of a brush. It only takes one fleck in the wrong place to quickly become more than an annoyance.
 
If you get another focusing screen, you get a tool with it to remove (and replace) the screen. I can recommend the EF-D screen (check the manual for the differences).

I'd rather get one of these. I have the EF-S, which is the just the precision matte but without the grid (the EF-D is both). Unless the grid is super useful to you, don't bother. The "precision matte" is not "matty" enough to actually make a difference to manual focus. You can't see the matt surface in bright light. The only time I really notice it is when I'm trying to focus in the kind of light where the AF fails, and then it's too damn dark for me to see anyway. It makes a kind of honeycomb effect, but usually on areas other than the subject - it's best seen in out of focus areas, which is not super useful. It's nothing like the matt focus screens of the manual focus days.

Thanks - to new at this to do it myself - I'll probably wait for the sensor to get dusty and then have it done somewhere :)

With the tool it's very easy. Without the tool it's very easy to f_ck it up.
 
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I'd rather get one of these. I have the EF-S, which is the just the precision matte but without the grid (the EF-D is both). Unless the grid is super useful to you, don't bother.
[fixed it for you :p]

To me the grid is super useful, as for some reason, I was tending to have the 40d sloping down to the right. Meant catastrophic results sometimes as there was just not enough crop area available to straighten the pic. Since putting it in the problem has gone. It's also quite useful for getting the Sigma 10-20 horizontal when you're taking shots of buildings and you're trying to avoid perspective distortion.

WRT Katz screen, I have mentioned somewhere before why I don't like split prism focusing screens, especially with long lenses.
 
[fixed it for you :p]
Thanks - I fixed mine.

To me the grid is super useful, as for some reason, I was tending to have the 40d sloping down to the right.

Yeah, I do that too. I just remind myself to check things against the focus points - it takes a bit more imagination, but it works. I was just so disappointed with the "precision matt" aspect of it, that I lost interest in trying the EF-D.

It's also quite useful for getting the Sigma 10-20 horizontal when you're taking shots of buildings and you're trying to avoid perspective distortion.

Ooh, but I love the perspective distortion! :)

WRT Katz screen, I have mentioned somewhere before why I don't like split prism focusing screens, especially with long lenses.

You did. I'd still like to try it though. Especially since I'm more of a wide-angle kinda guy :) But even if I ever get into some long-range shooting, swapping out the focus screen is easy enough.
 
Ok - came back from Orms, no 86mm polarization filter, he said that they'll have to do a special order.

Also no 50mm 1.8 lens.

And lastly, no Extreme IV 8GB cards, so they gave me a Ducati at the same price.

Forgot to get a battery :(
 
There's nothing wrong with the entry level SLRs like 50/40/450/1000D but your AF will not be as fast. I would have thought the 450d would be a fair performer as it uses the digic 4 chip, having said that, the 40D is far superior in every regard and is very comparable to the 50d. Realistically, when will you ever use the high ISO to get decent pics? The 40D can expand it's ISO to 3200, personally I never go over ISO400, even ISO200 is high for me.
 
There's nothing wrong with the entry level SLRs like 50/40/450/1000D but your AF will not be as fast. I would have thought the 450d would be a fair performer as it uses the digic 4 chip, having said that, the 40D is far superior in every regard and is very comparable to the 50d. Realistically, when will you ever use the high ISO to get decent pics? The 40D can expand it's ISO to 3200, personally I never go over ISO400, even ISO200 is high for me.
The Canon xxD cameras are hardly entry level cameras.

When will I use high ISO? Like koffie, whenever I need to: eg, In a live classroom where flash cannot be used (ISO 1600):

 
I'm referring to xxxd as entry level slrs, yes there are folks who use high ISO, at the canon roadshow the point was made that the person who has the latest pic of a starlet caught in a compromising position, probbaly taken at ISO 6400/12800 will still sell it for $$$$$$ and be on the cover over every tabloid the next day, regardless of quality/noise...
 
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