Starting out with Sonoff

[Not_original]

Hello again.
So I took the switches off the wall and this is what is inside.

Upstairs Switch View 1:
View attachment 790589

Upstairs Switch View 2:
View attachment 790593

Downstairs Switch View 1:
View attachment 790595

Downstairs Switch View 2:
View attachment 790597

With surfix wire , a lot of times the neutral is ran into the switchbox.
Some of those "neutral wires" has been used for two way switching, but as long as you have a neutral down there, your good to go.

Yes I'm an electrician. Although I do not advocate doing modifications to wiring, I love automation

 

[Greglsh]

How did you manage to control the Garage open/close with the Sonoffs?

Sorry for late reply

I have a Sonoff SV connected to the "button" connection directly on the motor, I think it would normally be used for a manual button on the wall. I have made the Sonoff SV safe so that it does not pass voltage through (remove resisitors, on youtube). I flashed it with Tasmota, then have connected it to my home Automation hub. You could open a browser and click on toggle to manually open the door as well.

 

[SmartKit]

I think you'll find you got that reversed. US uses rectangular, much as we do here, and UK generally uses square.

Had to explain to China we want German plugs, US lights switches and European-voltages.

ktxbai

 

[SmartKit]

Hey everyone,

So I am gonna start playing with Sonoff stuff.
Very interested in the Sonoff Basic for appliances, lamps, that kind of thing - this seems relatively simple.

My questions are more around the TX Series light switches. (Keep in mind I know not much about electricity and fitting standards etc)
I understand the gang part of the light switch and what it does.

1. Can I just buy any of the TX series, why would I chose one over the other? I see some of them have the 433MHz option. As I understand you can convert non WIFI devices to WIFI devices with another device? This leads to my second question.
2. Why would you need the 433MHz story if these are all WIFI enabled?
3. I see there are 2 shapes, the more rectangle shape and the more square shape. I don't seem to notice a difference in product code between them? Which would be the rectangle ones as these are what I need. My Light Switches
4. I have 2 wall plates which have 1 switch that is 2 way. Can these switches be 2 way as well? Does the smart management of these eliminate the need for a 2 way switch?
5. I see there are different standards. Which would be applicable for SA?

Shot for the help

Maybe we should be retailing a "starter pack" ;-)

 

[MDKza]

Maybe we should be retailing a "starter pack" ;-)

and maybe some wiring education to go along with it

 

[SmartKit]

and maybe some wiring education to go along with it

Sorry bud, there is no learning experience like taking on a full 220v.

 

[Britany D]

It is easy with a Sonoff SV. See https://mybroadband.co.za/forum/threads/sonoff-sv-as-a-relay-gate-motor.1064298/ . It can simulate pressing a remote button either at the motor or at the intercom / remote wired switch.

I am working with Switchbee that has all accreditation in South Africa. We have garage and gate controls.
Happy to help with any info if you need
Dave

 

[F1 Fan]

So i bought a 3 gang smart switch, and it doesn't fit into my switch box due to the way they laid the piping when the house was built. The back part of the sonoff switch is too big. Anyone know if the 2gang has a smaller back part?

And then, has anyone used the power r2 switch on their geyser as a timer?

 

[F1 Fan]

If there is no neutral inside the switch then the sonoff mini might be better. You can put the sonoff mini in the roof where the wires run down to the light switch and just put the existing switch into the sonoff. Then you can draw the neutral without having to run it down to the switch.

I cant figure out how the mini works. So if the mini is attached to the light in the roof, then the light lever will stay on all the time right? But the light will only switch on when you activate the mini? So what if you want to switch on the light using the normal lever?

 

[Not_original]

So i bought a 3 gang smart switch, and it doesn't fit into my switch box due to the way they laid the piping when the house was built. The back part of the sonoff switch is too big. Anyone know if the 2gang has a smaller back part?

And then, has anyone used the power r2 switch on their geyser as a timer?

bad idea. Geysers pull too much current. If you use do, use a relay

 

[Dairyfarmer]

And then, has anyone used the power r2 switch on their geyser as a timer?

Yes works well. I just find that I get the same total Kwh with and without the timer.

bad idea. Geysers pull too much current. If you use do, use a relay

Bad idea to comment without knowing the specs of the POW2 or the geyser. The POW2 rated 3500w / 15A. Geyser elements range from 1.5kw (that is 1500w) to 4kw, but generally there is not more than a 3Kw element. The 4kw elements are 20A. So, if the geyser has a 4kw element, then yes it is a bad idea, but lower kw elements are fine.

 

[bwana]

I cant figure out how the mini works. So if the mini is attached to the light in the roof, then the light lever will stay on all the time right? But the light will only switch on when you activate the mini? So what if you want to switch on the light using the normal lever?

If you connect S1 and S2 to a switch you can control the light directly from the switch.

 

[Dairyfarmer]

I cant figure out how the mini works. So if the mini is attached to the light in the roof, then the light lever will stay on all the time right? But the light will only switch on when you activate the mini? So what if you want to switch on the light using the normal lever?

Currently you have a Live and a Neutral running from you supply (DB box) to the light fitting. The Live takes a little detour on it's way to the fitting. It goes through a switch. A normal switch doesn't need power to work. It just opens or closes a break in the wire to let electricity through or stop it.

The Mini does the same job as the switch except it needs power to run. That is why it has both Live and Neutral wires running to it, although the Neutral running to the light fitting doesn't need to run through the Mini as it is not switched. You can now switch the Live open or closed via wifi. So it acts just like a Basic.

The Mini goes one step further though and allows you to connect a mechanical switch to it. On a Basic there is a button that you can push to open or close the circuit. The Mini allows you you to connect a switch that does the same thing.

The Mini can be located anywhere along the wire between the supply and fitting. In SA we generally don't have a Neutral wire running to the light switch. So it is not always an option to put the Mini inside the switch box without supplying a Neutral wire. Yes I know about using Earth, but let's rather stay safe.

So, without changing your house wiring, it is very simple.
Follow the wires running to your light fitting back towards the supply.
At some point the Live wire comes from the switch.
This wire coming from the switch goes into S2 and the wire going to the fitting goes into L Out
Keep following the wiring till you come to the point where the Live goes to the switch. The wire going to the switch goes into S1 and the wire coming from the supply goes into L In.
The Neutral coming from the supply need to go to the L In and to the light fitting.

 

[Not_original]

Yes works well. I just find that I get the same total Kwh with and without the timer.

Bad idea to comment without knowing the specs of the POW2 or the geyser. The POW2 rated 3500w / 15A. Geyser elements range from 1.5kw (that is 1500w) to 4kw, but generally there is not more than a 3Kw element. The 4kw elements are 20A. So, if the geyser has a 4kw element, then yes it is a bad idea, but lower kw elements are fine.

I would say the average house in South Africa has a 150 geyser with a 3kw element. I know the specs of the POW and based on the law of avg I informed accordingly. If OP has otherwise, it may work. You can refute my argument by saying the max rating for the switch is 16 whilst the geyser only runs 13.3 but Id generally not run such a small relay on the brink of its capacity. Spend R100 extra and install a 20A relay with a 220V coil.

 

[F1 Fan]

View attachment 860255
Currently you have a Live and a Neutral running from you supply (DB box) to the light fitting. The Live takes a little detour on it's way to the fitting. It goes through a switch. A normal switch doesn't need power to work. It just opens or closes a break in the wire to let electricity through or stop it.

The Mini does the same job as the switch except it needs power to run. That is why it has both Live and Neutral wires running to it, although the Neutral running to the light fitting doesn't need to run through the Mini as it is not switched. You can now switch the Live open or closed via wifi. So it acts just like a Basic.

The Mini goes one step further though and allows you to connect a mechanical switch to it. On a Basic there is a button that you can push to open or close the circuit. The Mini allows you you to connect a switch that does the same thing.

The Mini can be located anywhere along the wire between the supply and fitting. In SA we generally don't have a Neutral wire running to the light switch. So it is not always an option to put the Mini inside the switch box without supplying a Neutral wire. Yes I know about using Earth, but let's rather stay safe.

So, without changing your house wiring, it is very simple.
Follow the wires running to your light fitting back towards the supply.
At some point the Live wire comes from the switch.
This wire coming from the switch goes into S2 and the wire going to the fitting goes into L Out
Keep following the wiring till you come to the point where the Live goes to the switch. The wire going to the switch goes into S1 and the wire coming from the supply goes into L In.
The Neutral coming from the supply need to go to the L In and to the light fitting.

Oki brilliant. I will need a mini for each lever on the mechanical switch right? It's a 3 gang/lever mechanical switch.

Any experience with dimmers and two ways switches? Basically, on the 3 lever switch, the first lever is a two way dimmer switch. Levers 2 and 3 and normal, so the mini should do the job there. What can I do about lever 1?

Any suggestions on where to buy sonoff in CPT? Takealot is the most expensive.

 

[Steamy Tom]

Oki brilliant. I will need a mini for each lever on the mechanical switch right? It's a 3 gang/lever mechanical switch.

Any experience with dimmers and two ways switches? Basically, on the 3 lever switch, the first lever is a two way dimmer switch. Levers 2 and 3 and normal, so the mini should do the job there. What can I do about lever 1?

Any suggestions on where to buy sonoff in CPT? Takealot is the most expensive.

communica

 

[F1 Fan]

So if u switch mini in roof off via wifi, can u switch on with manual switch if manual switch was in off position too?

 

[Dairyfarmer]

So if u switch mini in roof off via wifi, can u switch on with manual switch if manual switch was in off position too?

Yes. S1 and S2 go to a mechanical switch that will override what has been done via wifi, timer, scene, IFTTT.....

 

[Dairyfarmer]

Spend R100 extra and install a 20A relay with a 220V coil.

The POW2 is not just a relay and timer. It has OPS as well as consumption history. By using a coil you only get the same functions as a Basic.

 

[F1 Fan]

Yes. S1 and S2 go to a mechanical switch that will override what has been done via wifi, timer, scene, IFTTT.....

Excellent. Why does the mini have 3 lives if it only powers 1 lever? Or can it actually power more than 1 lever? By lever I'm referring to one button on a 3 button switch.

Do you personally use this with Google home or Echo?