The Home Improvements Thread (2)

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It's basically the same thing, except it's doesn't lock like yours. Unless you add a padlock to it.

I see @Mike Hoxbig and @Kung Fu Porkchop pi$sed themselves, so maybe there's another option.
Oh you were being serious.

/choking from holding back the :laugh:

Sorry I don't have the answer, but a padlock doesn't seem like the most elegant thing in the world to use inside your home...
 

???

you could do one of these but just facing downward instead of sideways and drill a hole in the alluminum extrusion for the bolt to slide into. you get small versions of this also
 
Similar to the one with a key, but instead a thumb lock.

Hmm, this looks like it could be just the thing I need! My one concern is the metal plate the bolt goes into, and whether it would get in the way of the window sliding open.
 
Hmm, this looks like it could be just the thing I need! My one concern is the metal plate the bolt goes into, and whether it would get in the way of the window sliding open.
I'd just leave it out and drill a hole.
 
I'd just leave it out and drill a hole.
I cam back here to post this! In terms of mounting, do I just drill holes in the aluminium and put the screws directly without further wall plug-type things etc.?
 
Morning,

What is you'll take. so I have a well known Roof contractor replacing my Conventional Slate roof tiles.
Went well so far for ridge tiles. but...
the broken and shifted slate tiles on most part of the roof say 200 tiles needs to be done still.

The contractor said he wants to glue , reason new Slate tiles(I provided holes as standard from factory quarry) does not line-up with my brandering.

House is built in 1945 quite sturdy. I want to replace the wires with galvanised saturated screws it was a pre-requisite on my paid quote and accepted.

Now contractors wants to glue, as doing this will prevent them from opening up the whole side of a roof to fix the surrounding areas, and they guarantees me it will stick for a long time and won't shift as they've done it before.

I don't like it, elements will make it loose and shift opens up for more maintenance long-term as oppose to the nails.

Nb..
1. I want what is quoted and paid for.is it doable considering the situation.
2. I supplied the new Slate tiles measured accurately by contractors.
3. They can redrill new holes to fit on roof brandering wasn't qouted...am i unreasonable

see pics
 

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Boreholes.
What's your setup ? How do you control the level sin your tank ?
1 or two tanks ? 1 - supply house, 1 - garden irrigation ? All with one pressure pump or a separate one for irrigation ?
 
Boreholes.
What's your setup ? How do you control the level sin your tank ?
1 or two tanks ? 1 - supply house, 1 - garden irrigation ? All with one pressure pump or a separate one for irrigation ?

I have a very simple setup, single 4500L tank on 4.5-5 m high tank stand on the highest portion of the property. I don't run a pressure pump, just gravity so my pressure is not terribly high but ok for most things. My philosophy is the less moving parts in my life the better. :)

If you are running pumps, I would most definitely have a dedicated one for the house and a separate one for irrigation or the garden.
The less they run the longer they last and sadly gardeners don't always close taps properly and small leaks are a problem too.

Or for the garden just use the borehole pump itself , why pay twice to pump the same water ? I have my big sprinklers coming straight off the borehole and as long as you don't get too ambitious with the numbers it works well.

One thing I am going to do when this pump packs up is replace it with a single phase. I have a 3 phase at the moment and it's a nuisance as I can't run it off the generator or an inverter.

I am on a plot and have a fairly extensive network of pipes and strange needs so your situation might be different.
 
Boreholes.
What's your setup ? How do you control the level sin your tank ?
1 or two tanks ? 1 - supply house, 1 - garden irrigation ? All with one pressure pump or a separate one for irrigation ?
I only use mine for my garden. The pump is far from the tank, so I use an Arduino with a Reed's switch to remotely trigger the pump to fill the tank.

Then a pressure switch on the pump for water going out. it's also on a smart switch so I can disable it if there are issues. (Tank not filling, or it runs longer than the irrigation program, etc)
 
Hi all

How does one identify chromadek gutters? Can they be painted to a different colour?

Thanks
 
Asking advice on laying 600x600 terracotta floor tiles with dark grey 5mm grout. We're using an experienced tiler but I like to stick my nose in and monitor what they're doing - client from hell :laugh:

I'll get to other areas in a future post but for now:

The 1200 wide passage leads to 1200 wide stairs which lead onto an upstairs landing.

My gut says 1 x 600 tile in the centre and 300 on each side leading up the stairs. Would you agree?

The next question is how to transition from stairs to landing A, B or C?

20221002_183646.jpg
 
Asking advice on laying 600x600 terracotta floor tiles with dark grey 5mm grout. We're using an experienced tiler but I like to stick my nose in and monitor what they're doing - client from hell :laugh:

I'll get to other areas in a future post but for now:

The 1200 wide passage leads to 1200 wide stairs which lead onto an upstairs landing.

My gut says 1 x 600 tile in the centre and 300 on each side leading up the stairs. Would you agree?

The next question is how to transition from stairs to landing A, B or C?

View attachment 1393425
I'd go with one in the center and half on the sides. Reason being if your stairs and wall is out of square you'd be able to compensate. The landings I would follow the center from each flight of stairs.
 
I'd go with one in the center and half on the sides. Reason being if your stairs and wall is out of square you'd be able to compensate. The landings I would follow the center from each flight of stairs.

Excellent logic about a centre tile, and loving your thoughts on following the line. Thank you

lt's blooming irritating if you're OCD and nervous of what the tiler's going to suggest and if he even thinks about strips of under 20cm o_Oo_Oo_O

Why isn't there a programme to do this?
 
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Asking advice on laying 600x600 terracotta floor tiles with dark grey 5mm grout. We're using an experienced tiler but I like to stick my nose in and monitor what they're doing - client from hell :laugh:

I'll get to other areas in a future post but for now:

The 1200 wide passage leads to 1200 wide stairs which lead onto an upstairs landing.

My gut says 1 x 600 tile in the centre and 300 on each side leading up the stairs. Would you agree?

The next question is how to transition from stairs to landing A, B or C?

View attachment 1393425
Ja nee I would go crazy if I had to plan something like this. Would drive me up the walls. Good Luck
 
Asking advice on laying 600x600 terracotta floor tiles with dark grey 5mm grout. We're using an experienced tiler but I like to stick my nose in and monitor what they're doing - client from hell gg:laugh:
5mm is fine if the floor needs any compensation. 3mm is good only if the floor is absolutely perfectly level, otherwise the tile edges can end up being a little high or low. Especially with big tiles, much harder to compensate for an uneven floor.

Our tiler was brilliant, he figured out the right flows from room to room, taking into account slight variances in the room levels.
 
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