The Home Improvements Thread (2)

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pull the bin out as far as it will go, there is a little black clip with a little lever where the outer rail meets the inner rail, you push it the opposite way to what it is facing while pulling it out gently, you kind have to do both sides at the same time or keep pressure on the side you have released so it doesnt pop back in

edit nvm i see you got it

Yes exactly this, thanks!
 
Don't have weight per board. Mine are 3000 x 200 x 8.
I can weigh one board after work today and get back to you.
No worries - not that important. Google search reckons about 6-7 kg depending on length. At times, one can get 3600 length planks.
 
I have a stupid question I've never thought of before - I had to install a single raw bolt with eyelet to hold heavy weight +/i 50kg - the raw bolt is rated at 70kg - so all good.

Anyway, drill into the wall - and hollow brick - so in general, how are you meant to deal with those scenarios? (with screws, etc, etc)
 
I have a stupid question I've never thought of before - I had to install a single raw bolt with eyelet to hold heavy weight +/i 50kg - the raw bolt is rated at 70kg - so all good.

Anyway, drill into the wall - and hollow brick - so in general, how are you meant to deal with those scenarios? (with screws, etc, etc)
Your mileage might vary. I have used fast setting rockset when I had issue with drilling into garden walls and hit hollow bricks. It wasn't for heavy bolt though so not sure if applicable and it can be tricky to put this stuff in.

I am almost sure I used something like this. Even if they say fast set, I always wait 24 hours before drilling.

 
Good question. Cover sides as it looks like they only have flat planks.
Ok because I was about to say you could probably build a structure like that but its going to look weird, people will label you as weird and it wont work.

Covering it will work yes, very easy and quick to do.
 
@surface @The_Mowgs

you can do a lot with nutec boards

everite

nutec houses
Yes, you can.. however, it's designed for facade and cladding not for framing, as per the picture shared..

So if they want to clad the frame in the picture with nutec, all good, but they can't build the frame from the picture out of nutec..
 
My pool inlet thread is broken (can't really see it in the pics) so I cant screw on my skimmer. Can this screw off or do I need to dig up and replace the whole thing?
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That should be threaded on the inside as well. Just try unscrewing it.
 
I'm putting laminate in the house, and there's a spare bedroom with carpets and underfloor heating. If they replace the carpet in this room with laminate, they have to remove the underfloor heating. My question is if I should rather replace this particular room with new carpets instead to keep the underfloor heating or just remove it?

I'm thinking in terms of resale value or if it's generally stupid to get rid of something like that.

It's not in the main bedroom, just a small second room that no one sleeps in. It's perhaps going to be for exercise or an office.
 
I'd say go with tiles and keep the underfloor heating, if they will work with tiles.
Na it won't as it's some carpet-only mat-style heating, and I don't want tiles in there anyway. It's a choice between keep underfloor and replace carpet, or remove underfloor and put laminate.
 
I am in need of a home work space and considering building a garden shed for that purpose. There was an old damage shed that we pulled down after we bought the house sitting on a 3*3 cement/ concrete slab. I need a few questions answered, I am based in Cape Town.

1. From what I know 3*3 will be under 10sqm so I do not need planning permission or the fact that it will be on a slab makes it permanent ?

2. I do not need it to last forever but I need it to be comfortable so I will need to insulate it. In terms of material which will be the best; Nutec or treated pine?

3. It appears the makeshift slab does not have a damp course. It actually doesn’t look so bad but it appears damp contributed to the destruction of the old shed. The slab is completely exposed now what will be the best way to damp proof the slab in-situ. Breaking and rebuilding is not an option.
 
I have some built-in cupboards that I want to remove. THey aren't full-length, they are like lower-kitchen cabinet height. My question is, do these sorts of cupboards stand on their own or do they have to be attached to the wall?
 
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