The Home Improvements Thread (2)

[xrapidx]

I'd imagine it's causes by general deterioration over time, and/or chemical imbalance. I know my pool has high alkaline - and the water used to fill it was calcium heavy

Now that I'm trying the sponges - and not backwashing. I'm hoping to use tap water for top ups - so should be easier to keep the water in good condition.

 

[xrapidx]

Yeah looks like the deterioration on the base, looks like marbelite. Another year or two and it's time to reline

It feels like fibre glass though... Is marbelite solid?

 

[Steamy Tom]

It feels like fibre glass though... Is marbelite solid?

marbelite is a bit rough and can become porous. looking at your tiles i am inclined to agree it is fibreglass. so maybe you due for a new top coat i guess.

 

[Steamy Tom]

Similar question to above on the pool stains. (mine just looks far worse). Moved into a new house last year, stains in the pool look awful, firstly what caused it? Secondly what are the options to fix it?

those look like mosaics so more likely marbelite. i believe this might be a paint job that has deteriorated.

 

[ElixirCoder]

It feels like fibre glass though... Is marbelite solid?

I've never seen fibreglass discolour in that way - it doesn't look like a surface stain. Do the unaffected areas feel smooth, almost "soapy" smooth or a bit rough like a painted wall?

My pool is glass fibre lined and it cracked and peeled away from the substrate so I had to have it relined. I'm sure you can do that to marbelite as well

 

[xrapidx]

I've never seen fibreglass discolour in that way - it doesn't look like a surface stain. Do the unaffected areas feel smooth, almost "soapy" smooth or a bit rough like a painted wall?

My pool is glass fibre lined and it cracked and peeled away from the substrate so I had to have it relined. I'm sure you can do that to marbelite as well

Yeh, the different coloured sections have different textures. There is also some cracking, one goes from the top of the weir down to the light - been there for ages though, doesn't leak... Yet.

On the bottom - some section feels loose when you step on it, so think it's fibre glass

 

[Plasid]

I'm trying to wire an LED floodlight and unsure of which wires to connect where.

The floodlight's wires are the following: 1. Blue (neutral) 2. Brown (live) 3. Green/yellow (earth) - as indicated on illustration included in box.

The wires I need to connect these to are a red, white and black. I'm getting different answers from Google so I'd rather not assume or try my luck and just go for it.

Anyone with electrical knowledge up for assisting?

 

[WesleyDB]

I'm trying to wire an LED floodlight and unsure of which wires to connect where.

The floodlight's wires are the following: 1. Blue (neutral) 2. Brown (live) 3. Green/yellow (earth) - as indicated on illustration included in box.

The wires I need to connect these to are a red, white and black. I'm getting different answers from Google so I'd rather not assume or try my luck and just go for it.

Anyone with electrical knowledge up for assisting?

Red should be live, black should be neutral. For some instance white might be earth. Do you have a multimeter to test?

 

[Plasid]

Red should be live, black should be neutral. For some instance white might be earth. Do you have a multimeter to test?

Thanks. I'll give that combination a try. Unfortunately no multimeter to test.

 

[SAguy]

Tried to fit a heavy steel shelf in the garage today and realised that the walls are too soft for rawl bolts - pretty much kept coming loose until the rawl bolt was tightened all the way and the brick around the hold just broke away. Appears to be concrete blocks that have just aged poorly, they're probably about 50 years old.

I'm thinking either to get long coach screws as this will expand more uniformly that the rawl bolt - but then I'd need to drill new holes, current holes are 16mm. Alternatively I can get chemical anchor, inject that into the holes and use 10mm threaded rods.

Any suggestions?

 

[ElixirCoder]

Tried to fit a heavy steel shelf in the garage today and realised that the walls are too soft for rawl bolts - pretty much kept coming loose until the rawl bolt was tightened all the way and the brick around the hold just broke away. Appears to be concrete blocks that have just aged poorly, they're probably about 50 years old.

I'm thinking either to get long coach screws as this will expand more uniformly that the rawl bolt - but then I'd need to drill new holes, current holes are 16mm. Alternatively I can get chemical anchor, inject that into the holes and use 10mm threaded rods.

Any suggestions?

Definitely go with a chemical anchor.

 

[SAguy]

Definitely go with a chemical anchor.

I haven't used chemical anchor before, is it pretty much just a case of filling the holes and turning in the rods?

 

[garyc]

I'm trying to wire an LED floodlight and unsure of which wires to connect where.

The floodlight's wires are the following: 1. Blue (neutral) 2. Brown (live) 3. Green/yellow (earth) - as indicated on illustration included in box.

The wires I need to connect these to are a red, white and black. I'm getting different answers from Google so I'd rather not assume or try my luck and just go for it.

Anyone with electrical knowledge up for assisting?

Best to look at how that wire is connected at the source, if accessible. You never know how the contractor that installed it interpreted those colours.

 

[SAguy]

Definitely go with a chemical anchor.

Also just remembered, there's nowhere to even buy this right now - everything is closed :facepalm

 

[ElixirCoder]

I haven't used chemical anchor before, is it pretty much just a case of filling the holes and turning in the rods?

Yeah:

1. Drill the holes.
2. Clean the holes very well -- a bottle brush or tube brush helps. Blast the dirt out with a compressor or a pump. The more dust you leave in the hole, the weaker the chemical bond will be.
3. Inject the holes with the chemical anchor
4. Turn in the rods
5. Allow to cure as per product guidelines

 

[Jonny_9]

Tried to fit a heavy steel shelf in the garage today and realised that the walls are too soft for rawl bolts - pretty much kept coming loose until the rawl bolt was tightened all the way and the brick around the hold just broke away. Appears to be concrete blocks that have just aged poorly, they're probably about 50 years old.

I'm thinking either to get long coach screws as this will expand more uniformly that the rawl bolt - but then I'd need to drill new holes, current holes are 16mm. Alternatively I can get chemical anchor, inject that into the holes and use 10mm threaded rods.

Any suggestions?

Have you considered going right through the wall and using a threaded bar with a decent nut and washer on either side of the wall?

This will be as strong as hell and inexpensive, but it will depend on what is on the other side of the wall.

 

[SAguy]

Have you considered going right through the wall and using a threaded bar with a decent nut and washer on either side of the wall?

This will be as strong as hell and inexpensive, but it will depend on what is on the other side of the wall.

Did consider that yeah, unfortunately where I planned to put it is my neighbours side. I may chat to him though and see if he'll mind. We have a good relationship

 

[SAguy]

I'm getting our lights at cameras updated at the palisade fencing upgraded sometime soon - A question about wiring though:
If running house wire in conduit underground, what happens once it gets to the palisade tube? Is a grommet/gland just placed to connect the conduit to the palisade - or must conduit be run inside the palisade all the way up to the top and then somehow come out there?

Any thoughts?
Will of course consult with an electrician when it gets to that point, but just trying to get an idea of what is needed and what to expect.

 

[Geoff.D]

I'm getting our lights at cameras updated at the palisade fencing upgraded sometime soon - A question about wiring though:
If running house wire in conduit underground, what happens once it gets to the palisade tube? Is a grommet/gland just placed to connect the conduit to the palisade - or must conduit be run inside the palisade all the way up to the top and then somehow come out there?

Any thoughts?
Will of course consult with an electrician when it gets to that point, but just trying to get an idea of what is needed and what to expect.

No most electricians do not run conduit inside the fence poles. But there is a valid case to be made for doing that because it facilitates cable installation especially later on when you want to replace cables for any reason.

 

[SAguy]

No most electricians do not run conduit inside the fence poles. But there is a valid case to be made for doing that because it facilitates cable installation especially later on when you want to replace cables for any reason.

So they probably end the conduit against the pole, make sure it's sealed and run housewire up to the light.